oil volume

you have to remember that you will not get every bit of oil out of the car on an oil change. The oil cooler the lines,and even sump and the tank will still have some oil left in them even after a thourgh draining. The capacity staed in the owners books are for a dry and empty system including the oil cooler.

 

This may sound very stupid, but are you sure the correct dipstick is in the car. Many times, people accidently put the wrong dipstick in a car after changing the oil (if there are other cars getting the oil changed at the same time). Could it be possible that there is another Ferrari's dipstick in your engine? While I agree that the engine is going to hold more oil then is drained, it should not hold an extra 1.5 quarts. Please keep us updated if you find the problem.

 

The 575 Maranello uses 12 qts for the basic oil change, 16 if I empty all the lines to and from the engine and to and from the oil cooler, huge difference!

aehaas

 

I have changed the oil in my '97 355 Spider Three times and it always takes 8-1/2 quarts. I got fooled the first time and put in too much and had to suck a quart out. - Its just the way it is!!!

 

How are you checking the oil....
You have to check oil after the engine is warm and just after you shut it off. Don't fill to the full mark. Half way is good.

 

My 3.2 Mondial takes 8.5 qts. for an oil change. Even though i've changed the oil many times, I always underfill it initially . I'll put in 7.5 qts, and while it is still on jackstands, let it warm up and check for leaks. I then shut it off, wait 15 minutes and check the oil. Inevitably, I end up putting in the remaining quart and bringing the level up to FULL. From ADD to FULL is 2 qts.

Using this procedure, i've never overfilled any car.


Tom

 

My 8.5 quart measurement is with the engine oil at 150 degrees having immediately shut off the engine and measureing to the "Max" mark on the dipstick. Stated capacity is 10 quarts. I drain the crank case and the scavage tank. Different from the 348 I had to cut a 3" hole in the aerodynamic fairing on my drill press to gain access to the tank drain plug on successive oil changes. This is a lot better than removing the aero fairing and potentially wearing out the studs that hold it on.

 

360's take about 9 litres on a basic oil change. However, after an engine rebuild with washed housings and parts, cooler and lines flushed, they take up to 14 litres.

 

I just changed the engine oil and filter in my Mondial 8. I put in 9 quarts (takes 9 liters) and it was seriously overfilled. Any ideas why?

 

see above

 

So if it says 9 liters then why would you put in 9 quarts. Considering a quart is greater then a liter you would have more oil then the car calls for. Is this a trick question. Also if you measure the oil on the dipstick cold after you change it you will see it is a few inches over the full mark. When you measure it according to the owners manual you will see it is at the full level.

 

You typed that in wrong, correct?!

 

I see this is an old post but thought I would answer anyway. There is a qt. in the oil cooler and an easy 1/2 qt remaining in the engine, oil lines, sump etc. add in the 1/2 qt based on your dipstick reading and you have the missing 2 qts.
I have 2 oil coolers on my 355CH and I have to remove them and turn them upside down to completely get the oil out of them, I get 3 qts that I would not get when just draining the tank and sump!

 

Right 1 liter = 1.056 qts. So 9 liters should be 9 1/2 quarts. It would have been nice if the packaging industry converted when the auto industry went metric.

 

OK, thanks to everyone who replied. 9 quarts is less than 9 liters, I don't yet have an owner's manual (on backorder), but now that I know about checking the level 15 minutes after shutdown I will try that. Maybe the problem is the oil remaining in the cooler and lines.

On the same subject, I bought K&N oil filters, which are supposed to be correct, but I have to wait for oil pressure after starting, so I don't think they have the anti-drainback valve. Is there a filter that does? Also, I can't find a local source for 10W-50, so am using Syntec 20W-50 until I can find the right stuff. Anyone know of a source of 10W-50?

 

Why are you using such an overly thick oil?

 

It's not the anti-drainback valve that you are missing in the K&N, it's the internal standpipe that works in conjunction with the anti-drainback valve to hold more oil inside the (inverted) oil filter case. Do a search on "Baldwin standpipe" -- Baldwin B253 is what you need.

 

It depends on the model of car of course, but for a 308 20W50 is not overly thick unless you really enjoy scary low oil pressure when warm.

 

I don't know if I'd call 20w/50 overly thick, the non-synthetic version has been used in my '84 V12 for many years with very good results. I have heard that the synthetic types could possibly effect internal seals (don't know how true it is---but any rumors @ possible internal problems I steer clear of at the risk of an expensive rebuild).

I seriously recommend Ali Haas's research document on motor oil to better understand .........
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=new_faq_item#faq_haas_articles

 

If Castorl is your preferred brand, use Castrol Syntec 5w-50 or 5w-40. Both can be found at any AutoZone store.

 

Gentlemen, with all due respect, I believe that you will find that AEHass advocates, strongly, lighter weight oils because most engine wear occurs at cold-engine-startup when oil is too thick to circulate.

Obviously a few track cars will be running so hard for so long at such high temps that *they* will require heavy oils, but I suspect that few street cars will benefit from trading startup wear for high-temp, high RPM (for long periods) protection.

 

Yes. 5W50 is a *vastly* better option than 20W50.

5W50 basically means "the oil flows like a 5 Weight oil when cold" and that "the oil protects like a 50 Weight oil when hot."

20W50, in contrast, basically means "the oil flows like a 20 Weight oil when cold" and that "the oil protects like a 50 Weight oil when hot."

Which is to say, you lose startup protection with 20W over 5W because 20W takes so much longer to lubricate your engine properly at startup (at least when the engine is cold).

 

A lot of us do not want to use synthetic. Yes I know, I'm a cheap ass for not replacing seals the second I find a leak, and probably don't deserve to own a Ferrari. But there just isn't a dino oil that I can find locally with a weight less than 20. And after trying 10W40, I will never make that mistake again. I am very happy with 20W50 and will leave that issue in my life at rest.

 

Point taken.