I have an 85 308QV. I would like to inspect the doors, sills, and channels for possible rust, treating with tectyl ML (for example). Has anyone been through this procedure, and could provide some suggestions for dismantling, etc? Any other thoughts on where to look for and prevent corrosion?
I unfortunately found cancer on my 84QV (recent purchase). It is in the area behind the passenger window, in the louvered (sp??) area at the bottom. After many baths, I have realized this is where water pools more than any other area of the car. After washing, open both sides, and watch it pool! I always leave them open overnight after washing, leaving a dry towel in there.
I recently found a spot exactly there, too. And that is why would like to do a comprehensive search now....
3x8 common rust areas: - Seam where the rocker panel joins the body, especially where the seam intersects the front & rear wheel wells. This is the most common offender.BTW, You can't see the rust because the body overhangs the seam. You have to lie down beside the car & look up at the seam, or else have the car on a lift. - Interior of door below the mirror. (The rubber seal for the door windows is routed over the small post at the front of the windows. This leaves about a 1/8" triangular gap that lets water drip in.) By the time a 1/8" rust blister appears in the exterior paint, there's a silver dollar sized circle of body cancer on the inside of the door. Really have to pull the door interior panel to check for this, & may have to pick at the insulating undercoating sprayed on the door skin. - Door bottom seam where the door skin bends over the door frame. Again, by the time you see external rust blisters there's major rust in the interior seam. Pull the door panel as above. - Engine cover - Underside of the lip that overhangs the taillights. - Top of the square shaped waistline recess by the tail lights & also where it joins the rear wheel well. - Top of the square shaped waistline recess between the front wheel well & the edge of the door opening. - All wheel well Bottom corners. - Screw holes for the screws that mount the AL plates at the bottom of the door openings - Emblem mounting holes (under the emblems where you can't see them of course.) - The bottom of the area behind the window louvers & around the gas filler hole. - Brake disc dust/splash shields BTW, I don't think I've ever seen Tectyl ML for sale here in the states. I prefer POR15 as it completely passivates & seals rust with a coating that is impervious to both oxygen & moisture. See: www.por15.com Think this covers all the ones I've seen.
Thanks for your useful list Verell. (For the record, on my european qv, the aluminium door plates have no obvious screws. It appears that they may be bonded down with silicone sealant, or the like.)
Interesting, maybe they made the change when they switched the bodys to zincrometal. I've got an Euro '82 308 GTS QV with several screws/plate.
I have resorted to replacing the lower door skins with fibreglass replicas...definately solves the problem...but a killer for originality. what do you guys think of the "rustbusters" system advertised in hemmings motor news? sandblasting and then spray welding pure zinc. Anyone try it yet? looks kinda neat.
Can anyone detectably tell the fibreglass skins from the metal door skins? Especially if the door's interior is recoated with sound proofing? Of course the magnet test would be a giveaway...
the glass skins are thicker that the steel and do not have the flanged lip that wraps around the door frame. You must cut away the old rusty skin and then bond the fibreglass skin to the frame....on the last one I did I just replaced the lower skin with glass (from the body line down)...it was a bit easier. you can't tell from the outside that they are glass...only the seam on the inside gives it away... Philip, I do have an extra pair if you are interested...e-mail me privately if yo like.