Building My New Shop, FINALLY!

An update on the underground utilities. These pictures show the ditch, heating supply and return pipes, potable water, conduits, insulation and form for pouring the concrete into the window opening I sacrficed for the project.
I know, not real exciting but a good reference for the next guy, you out there Groove?
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I forgot to mention the projected efficiency of the insulation around the pipes.
The copper is sheathed in foam and placed inside the conduit. The conduit is then wrapped in more pipe insulation and laid on top of the foam board which is R10 factor. Afterwards I laid stips of foam board between the pipes and layered on top so I figure the R-factors at R20 on the bottom, R30 on the sides and R40 on the top. This should minimize heat loss from the furnace in the house to the garage and back.

A time consuming part of the project but the pay off in efficiency is worth it.

 

Maybe during the winter holiday season if it all comes together. Maybe a north end 'Wash n Wax' like Dave T's last winter.

 

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Hi Martin,
After I get the in-floor heating done I will wash it down with Muriatic acid then paint with a 2-part epoxy. I looked at Muscle Gloss which is a 3-part, (color chips & gloss top coat) and Ucoatit a 2-part with color chips.

The Muscle Gloss would run over 1300.00 for 952 sq.ft. and the Ucoatit slightly less. Too steep for a 'working shop'. I have my eye on some less expensive, solid color, 2-part epoxies that will handle the abuse.

I think prep is the key. If it cracks or chips I'll fill it with the "The Big Stretch" and touch it up.

Yes, a breezeway is definately on the list as well as a deck on the west side of the building for those late evening cooling off periods. I was thinking of simply extending the existing porch roof to the garage roof but idealy I should hammer out the existing steps and angle them in two directions, one towards the driveway/pad out front and the other angle towards the entry door of the garage. Of course I would have to build a larger roof over the 'new' porch as well. MAN! Another project!

Ultimately there will be a 28' wide X 20' deep concrete pad in front of the garage with a walkway that will extend between the house and the garage then go up steps to the planned deck out back.

After the pad is poured I will be able to roll the lift outside on those days too nice to be cooped up inside!

 

You mean 2' X 3'?

 

With that kind of help......................................

 

Looking good Martin,
It looks plenty tall enough for stacking cars too. I like the breezeway. I want to do the same thing to blend the house and garage together, not that they need it really, they are only 8 feet apart as it is!

 

SHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH....!

 

They are using the chassis from the Aztec for the Roundevous and the new Rainier. The crossover concept on the Aztec was ahead of it's time somewhat but very poorly executed.

Life time dealer supply=5 Aztecs.

 

Time for an update.
After getting side tracked on other things for a while I finally got going on the oil separation system and heating system. I spent over an hour with an engineer at NW mechanical getting educated in systems design a few weeks ago and just got done sweating up the pump and valves.

I had to relocate the existing circulation pump on the back of my antique ARCOLINER to make room for the new return lines. I lucked out breaking the lower pump flange loose from the 52 year old galvinized pipe without breaking the pipe off at a very bad place, like where it enters the 52 year old boiler!

The new stack is all done in cast and machined brass with the return lines done in copper.

Shown below is a picture of the oil separator connected to the floor drains in the garage. It is set up much like a septic tank with the inlet 1" higher than the outlet pipe but with a snorkel on the outlet pipe that extends half way down the depth of the tank. This allows light oil to float to the top and the sludge to settle to the bottom allowing relatively clean water to exit up the snorkle. County approved design.

The next shots are of the return line build-up and check valve on the back of the boiler and a picture of old Betsy herself.
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The next shots are of the new pump, mix valve and electrically operated zone valve. The zone valve is activated by a thermostat in the garage which then opens the valve, trips a microswitch to start the pump. The mix valve itself is self regulating by inlet temps and return temps. I can manually adjust the range with the knob on top, 60 to 100 degrees. There is a temp gauge on the inlet and outlet manifiolds in the garage so I can monitor temp loss between the house and garage and temp differential from inlet to outlet in the floor. This will help me in adjusting the mix valve accurately in the house.

The electrical was a challenge to make compatible to the operation of the 'other' circulation pump and burner operation as well. Hope I don't ever have to undo any of it!

Can anyone say "Rube Goldberg?"
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Thanks Peter,
It's the 'Obsessive Compulsive' part of me.

At the time I soldered up the system I stubbed out provisions for another zone circuit in the basement. Once all of the 'junk' is moved from basement to the garage I can start the task of constructing the entertainment room in the space currently occupied by my other 240Z.

I figure after this is done my boiler will be ready for it's 110k service...............................

..................never ending story.

 

Tempurature gauges normaly used for swimming pool installations.
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