Synthetic or what oil in a 355?

All Ferraris since the Boxer came with synthetic oil from the factory. For example, my 1982 BB512i came with Agip SINT2000. For those reasons and more, I would use synthetic oil. And, if you're worried about the cost to buy oil for your Ferrari, either you're a cheapskate or you can't afford a Ferrari IMHO.

 

1995 F355 here, Castrol Syntec 10/40 recommended by my F-dealer.

 

FOA reccomended Castrol or Mobil synthetic also.

 

My mechanic said, "If you can ink the check for the car, you can ink the check for the synthetic oil...."

Dino

 

I thought all later model Ferrari's used Shell synthetic motor oil?

 

delaney, it was your post that first brought up the phrase "...at a fraction of the cost..." That was why I and I suspect others supposed you were looking for a cheaper route. And, FYI AGIP like other oil companies have reformulated their oils and the SINT 2000 they now offer is much different from the SINT 2000 of decades ago just as Mobile 1 is different . In any event, I use Redline, Mobile 1 or AGIP depending on where I am when I need to top off the oil. When I do a oil change, I use which ever of those brands I have on hand at the time.

 

See the thread:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14408

For a lot of the data and ongoing discussion.

 

I would think your local dealer would carry it. Wonder how much it is a quart.

 

I would like to jump in here. First, FNA is not trying to do anything to anybody by recommending Shell Helix Ultra. It is a very good oil, maybe the best. I like it but it is not readily distributed here making it hard to find and expensive. I would guess that Shell does more research than anyone else worldwide in the lubricant department. BUT, aside from lack of availability and expense they do not have a 0W-20 or 0W-30 oil yet. I am certain they will soon however, and I base my recommendations on being a name brand oil and having the appropriate viscosity. Using Shell Helix, Ultra, Mobil 1 or Redline and others makes no difference to me. They have basically the same properties but for one big difference, viscosity range.

Also, FNA has no problem with me using Mobil 1 instead of Shell Helix Ultra. They only state that they have not tested the Mobil product in their cars. They are talking shop with me and we are in touch every few weeks on matters of lubrication, wear and tear and the like. They do read these pages and pay attention to what people say but cannot comment.
Any car manual more than 3 years old is outdated and the recommendation in there is not relavent today. You must choose based on todays, higher standards. This is not brand specific but rather viscosity specific and thinner is better.

Finally, I use Pennzoil Multi-grade plain dino oil in my 2 MB v12's and the Expedition. Even though dino oils may not last as long as a synthetic, they last long enough and in any case I generally replace the oil within 3,000 miles at about a years time when even synthetic oils should be replaced just because of the time, not the mileage.

aehaas

 

My F355 with 40K miles and 5K track miles does:
idle: 70 PSI cold, 45 PSI at idle warm, 35 PSI idle hot 285dF
3000: 105 PSI cold, 95 PSI warm, 85 PSI hot
6000: xxx PSI cold, 100 PSI warm, 85 PSI hot
8500: xxx PSI cold, 100 PSI warm, 85 PSI hot

On 10W40 Redline motor oil. xxx means I don't run the engine at those RPMS and that temperature, so I have no data.

Since I still have 35-40 PSI at idle after a track sessioni with the temp in the 265-280 range in the heat of Texas summers (e.g. 105 in the shade), you idle pressure concerns me. I would check the sending unit, and check the actual pressure with a different guage.

 

Your pressure monitoring system is not working. When you get one working then use the oil that gives you what your manual recommends, BETWEEN 72-87 PSI at 6,000 RPM at operating temperature.

I hate to say things as this but when you made the statement that you should go from 5-40 to 15-40 to get a higher pressure, you clearly have no knowledge about oils and therefore you should not be the one to decide what to use. Both will give you the exact same pressure when at normal operating temperature. The 15-40 will be much more like honey at start up temperature where most engine wear occurs.

There is an ongoing thread you should read about oils. Please understand that oil is so complicated a topic that almost all auto mechanics do not understand it at all. It is rocket science. I say this as a biochemist and Mitch says it as an engineer.

aehaas

My guess is that a 30 wt oil will give you more than the required (real) pressure. Look at the recommended synthetic or mineral oils from the list of recommended oils and pick one.

Sorry.

 

I would always use what is recommended for the car. My 308 says Agip this is when Ferrari used them as a sponsor. Now its Shell, however I use synthetic either Silkolene or Motul as I get this trade and change it every 3000 which is a bit much. But you could use mineral oil and change it every 500 miles. Oil degrades over time and use cheap oil change every day will be like 3000 mile change on synthetic. Do you get my drift.

 

What owners manuals told us to use 30 years ago is not valid today. There is no relationship between what was used then and what is available today. Mineral oils can be used safely in most cars for 5 - 10,000 miles or more. It is not that oils break down but rather the additives that get used up. Todays additive packages are different, better in every way and they last much longer than before, much longer.
Despite this most car manufacturers recommend changing oil at 6 to 12 month intervals even if the car is not used at all. Some additives only last that long regardless of miles. Most additives are in fact the same in both mineral and synthetic oils.

aehaas

 

You may have gummed up the pressure sensor. This gum can prevent the sensor from registering small pressure levels. I guess I'm surprised the gum has not been washed clean as you run the car (back) in, it might in time, but the sensor is not very expensive, and peace of mind is generally worth it.

 

The best oils available in 1996 would have 4-ball tests running the the 0.9 range whereas the typical 1996 synthetic would come in at 1.2 on the 4-ball test. Todays best oils come in at 0.35 to 0.40 and typical synthetics have progressed into the 0.50 to 0.60 range. The 4-ball test represents the kind of wear the piston rings and cylinder liner receive from sliding contact.

Todays thin 0W-30 oils have better 4-ball scores than todays 20W-50 oils (barely) and monsterously better 4-ball scores than 1996 typical synthetics. The base stocks of these oils (separated in years) ARE the same molecules [that's why they are called synthetic] as the earlier oil {same manufacture year to year}. What this is trying to tell us is that the additive package controls the wear rate of the engine, not the oil. The base stock oil does not "wear out" but the addtive package does. The oil, is, in effect a river of coolant that contains wear reducing/preventing molecules in solution.

And, unfortunately, reading the can does little good if you want to minimize wear on your engine. At this point you have to do the research, and thats what the discussion on the other thread is all about.