Lithium Grease on splines

I would use anti-seize.

 

I used a cooper anti-sieze. Use sparingly.......if you put too much on, it will spray out the back of the wheel, onto the inside of the wheel.

 

If it were me, I'd leave them dry. Any substance you put in there changes the actual torque on the wheel versus what the wrench says.

I speak from a BAD experience. I actually lost a wheel on my TR at one point. Luckily I saw it happening, so it was a very low speed accident when the wheel came off, but the repairs exceeded $27,000.

Needless to say, I did a LOT of research while the car was being fixed and everyone recommended mounting them dry and just dismounting them once in a while to prevent corrosion mating.

Grease wasn't a factor in my losing a wheel, but the pros advice was to leave them dry.

 

Leaving them dry may produce "spalling", or "pick up", where the chamfers meet on the nut. The friction of the dry chamfer may also cause the nut to "feel" tight when in fact it is not.....and we all know you'll never get around to loosening it to prevent it sticking!

I use Wurth CU800 copper anti seize. It's good for very high temperatures, doesn't dry out and is not crazy expensive.

Just use enough to cover all the splines and both chamfers on the nut. Brush it into the splines but remove all excess.....put the wheel on and off a couple of times to squeeze out the excess, then wipe it away and fit permanently.

Fit the wheels as tight as you can with the hammer, or to the prescribed torque, drive the car for 15 minutes and tighten all the wheels again.

Relax and enjoy.......

 

I agree with phil, the wurth anti-seize is a very good choice.

Just make sure to use a very,very, very small amount, Just enough to LIGHTLY coat the splines and chamfer. keep the nut and threads clean.

and most important as phil has said, recheck after the first run.

Best regards, Jim