Goop On Distributor Shaft? | FerrariChat

Goop On Distributor Shaft?

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by donaldh2o, Nov 29, 2003.

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  1. donaldh2o

    donaldh2o Karting

    Nov 10, 2003
    143
    Irvine CA
    Full Name:
    Don
    #1 donaldh2o, Nov 29, 2003
    Replacing the O-rings on my '76 308 distributor shafts. I did this years ago to stop the annoying oil leaking from the bottom of the distributors. Now they're leaking again.

    Apparently someone's been in there since I replaced the O-rings years ago. Today, when I took out the first distributor, I found someone had ran a bead of silicon around the O-ring then pushed it onto the shaft while the goop was still wet to form a sort of gasket. It hardened to soft rubbery texture. It's been years, but I don't remember putting silicon or goop on them.

    Is this a common practive that I don't know about?

    If so, what is the goop? Brand name or generic name of the goop?

    I don't see how goop would help seal on a rotating shaft?

    Puzzled?
     
  2. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    12,661
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    #2 yelcab, Nov 29, 2003
    Actually, the dizzy shaft is stationary with respect to the camshafts because they both turn at the same rate.

    I gooped my up with Hylomar but it did not help for long. I am due for going back in to do something different. This time, may be taking out the 5-8 shaft and install a proper aluminum plug.
     
  3. 4re gt4

    4re gt4 Formula 3

    Apr 23, 2002
    2,279
    Roseburg, OR
    Full Name:
    Hans E. Hansen
    #3 4re gt4, Nov 29, 2003
    My car has had this problem since new. The PO used to put Permatex #2 on the O-ring. #2 stays soft, fluid - doesn't harden or set up.

    My mechanic had the dist. off, and didn't put any sealer on it. Leaks real bad.
     
  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,123
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    Steve Magnusson
    #4 Steve Magnusson, Nov 29, 2003
    I, too, prefer a non-hardening sealer on the various quasi-static (and truly-static) o-ring seals and have had good past results with Loctite PST. Using something that cures doesn't make sense IMO since there's still some (very small) relative movement in that particular joint (unlike a truly-static bolted or clamped connection).
     
  5. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,017
    Groton, MA
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    Verell Boaen
    #5 Verell, Nov 29, 2003
    Loctite PST firms up until it's nearly solid. I prefer Hylomar which won't harden, and Permatex#2 is my 2nd choice.

    O-Rings should be adequate seals in themselves w/o any goop. Try to find a slightly thicker O-ring that will exert more force.

    If your car hasn't had the aluminum plug retrofit, bite the bullet & do it.
     
  6. Steve King

    Steve King F1 Rookie

    Feb 15, 2001
    4,367
    NY
    #6 Steve King, Nov 30, 2003
    If your car hasn't had the aluminum plug retrofit, bite the bullet & do it.[/QUOTE]

    Verell what is the alum. plug retrofit?
     
  7. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,123
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #7 Steve Magnusson, Nov 30, 2003
    Steve K. -- If your 308GTB engine number is at or above 00848, you've already got the aluminum plug modification:
     
  8. donaldh2o

    donaldh2o Karting

    Nov 10, 2003
    143
    Irvine CA
    Full Name:
    Don
    #8 donaldh2o, Nov 30, 2003
    Again Yelcab has me slapping my forehead with the palm of my hand. Of course the distributor shaft and cam turn in unison - look at the spline! (Slap, slap)

    Thanx for the info, but I can't imagine me removing the cams to fit the aluminum plug which I have no idea of where to get it. The O-rings, if kept fresh, seem to do a good job of stopping the oil leaks.

    My problem now is the distributors have single points but my user and shop manuals only describe the double point setup. I don't know the gap setting or even part the number if I want to replace the points.

    The rotors are a bit charred at the ends, which I cleaned off, and a slight bit of charring on the distributor contacts. The car seems to run OK. But if I need new parts who sells points, capacitors and distributor caps for 308s?

    Are the caps throw aways or repairable?

    Also, that retrofit submitted by 91TR says to grease the splines before installing them. There was no grease whatsoever on the splines when I pulled these distributors. The splines are slightly oiled and look pristine. Maybe a light coating of grease would be ok??
     

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