Stalling 328 when slowing down and it's not the clutch...

I need a hint...does it idle at the normal speed when warm? (around 900 to 1000 rpms?)

 

Rob,
The idle is set too low ?

If i'm right-----do I win a prize ?

 

I'm thinking it is not that simple, as Rob would know to turn the big knob to adjust the idle back up....hmmmmmm

 

Does the idle flucuate at all when in neutral after being warmed up (when it does not stall that is)?

 

mondialesque (electrical) answers:
1.bad battery secondary to and concommitant with a bad altenator/voltage regulator.

2.Bad Kjet protection relay or blown fuse

More wags later

 

I had the same problem with my Alfa Spider last month. The problem was that I forgot to replug the Bosch FI plug into the computer when I unplugged it to install a new air filter (the system on the Alfa is mounted on top of the air filter housing.

Ken

 

It could be a few items. A disconnected vacuum line or large vacuum leak. Aux. Air Valve could be stuck or it could be the fuel pump. There are other things it could be but these are the main culprits.

 

Rob -- Is this really a specific "Gizmo X failed" issue, or something more "entertaining" -- like a squirrel stuck in the air inlet? Give us the second clue...

 

When mine does that, I know it's time to clean out the throttle body around the throttle plate. Dirt/crud builds up causing the idle speed to drop below minimum before settling to normal. sometimes this dip caused mine to almost die.

P.S. When mine did this there were no panties involved....

 

308GTS I would disagree on the aux air valve being a possible source of the problem. He implies that cold idle works (means the valve opens okay). As the car warms up, the valve closes, which is normal. If it was stuck open, he would have a constantly fast idle. If it where stuck close, he would have no fast (cold) idle and would always be at the warm idle setting of around 1000 rpm. That would not cause the car to stall, except possibly when cold, but he specifically said it does not stall when cold (fast idle).

I think your first thought, of a possible vacuum leak is more likely.

 

I am guessing a vacuum leak as well. Under demand, the engine can compensate for the leak but at idle it can't causing a rough idle and stall. But the fact that Rob neve rmentioned a rough idle is what is confusing me.

 

Hey!
You didn't tell us it was a deliberately induced fault!
It's way lean as the airmass plate inertia returns to rest at idle it keeps on moving downward and shuts off enough gas to keep it idling. They set the plate position stop very lean (low). Very clever if that's it.
Great quiz! We need more of these.

 

Okay, so now I am (still guessing) that they just set the CO too lean.

 

...and left the O2 sensor unplugged?

 

I see what you are saying but that doesn't make the car go into fast idle. I can jumper my temp sensor and start up the 308 and it will idle right at 1000 and the WUR, AAV, etc. will still function. So if the valve stayed open during normal running the car would be under a lean condition which could cause the car to stall but not under acceleration.

 

308GTS, the aux air valve, if stuck open, shouldn't cause a lean condition. It is drawing the air from the air intake, after the air flow sensor, so if stuck open, the air flow sensor would adjust the fuel and keep the mixture from leaning out.

BTW, I am NOT a mechanic, but have tinkered on them over the years, and replaced a couple aux air valves in the past. This is where I have gotten some great info. on how the system works
http://www.auto-solve.com/mech_inj.htm

 

I also do not think it is the air valve as Dave said. A vacuum leak just big enough to matter at low rpm would make it lean out then overcome by running airflow. I don't think the emissions adjustment mentioned by Rob would affect the aux air valve, but I could be wrong.
I'm still thinking that the airmass sensor plate is coming too far to a close from an 'emissions adjustment' by Norwood as Rob indicated. Remember when the airmass sensor plate comes down to a close the fuel stops, which also explains the inertial behavior as the plate swings down to a close if the stop is maladjusted..

What do you guys think?

 

I also think we need a full accounting of why you found her panties in the car?

 

My guess; the a/f mixture is off.

Now, tell us about the 'panties' episode!

 

1) intake valve adjustments "tweaked" (longer opening)

2) vacuum advance disconnected

3) vac leak

4) ... well, if the cold injector was leaking, you wouldn't have passed emissions.

 

Try this:

1) turn off every electrical thing in the car (i.e. AC/radio/heater/lights/etc.)
2) disconnect battery, also diconnect the grounding strap up in front next to the driver side headlight against the frame.
3) wait 10+ minutes
4) connect grounding strap, connect battery
5) start car and let it idle (only blip the throttle once to get the alternator to engage) 10 minutes
6) turn on EVERYTHING elecrical in the car, wait 10 minutes

You've just reset the k-jettronic.

Try it and see if it works. It's worth investing a half hour.

-dq

 

(Bump)

So what was the answer?

 

Rob - we're waiting for the answer here.
Don't make me call Norwood.