Armani or Zegna? Valentino or Versace? Brioni or Caraceni?

Belongs in off topic, but...

I like the Italian tailors - Brioni, Kiton, etc. I also like the way Bergdorf Goodman cuts its own suits, in the Italian style (i.e. a more fitted design than you would get on Saville Row.) I also think the men's Bergdorfs is the best department store in the world. Don't forget American tailors. I don't like Oxxford at all, but I do like Alan Flusser; you can get a Flusser suit at the Saks in NYC.

Armani is crap - sorry to eryone who like it, but the fabric doesn't compare, no hand stitching, and so on. Look for the hand stitiching on the lapels, on the lining; this will indicate the suit's quality.

 

Zegna has the best fabric. Every year there is a competition in Europe (between textile companies) as to who can produce the finest fabrics. The winner is rewarded with a contract whereby Zegna agrees to purchase ALL of their product for the year.

DL

 

ZJPJ

I agree that Amrani does not use the best material, but to date it's the only brand that fits me without major alterations. I can buy a 42R off the rack and just need the pants cuffed. Everything else fits great. I have tried other brands, but they are either too short (Armani and other Italian brands seem to give an extra 1 1/2 inch in the sleeve), too long (I cannot fit in a long - its way too long and big), or too tight. Another plus is that I can get Armani with a 50% discount.

Ken

 

That is a plus! Fit is obviously the most important factor. Armani also fits me perfectly...if I can find my size. I'm 5'6", 130. I'm a 36 short - impossible to find. I often end up buying 38s and spending 100 dollars to have the thing taken apart and made smaller.

 

Just another pitch for Alan Flusser - also worth checking out is his book "Dressing the Man" http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0060191449/qid=1072583737//ref=sr_8_xs_ap_i0_xgl14/002-4878897-4246406?v=glance&s=books&n=507846

 

lapel and sleeve

 

Never Valentino or Versace..never...Too Las Vegas...

 

Comfort is everything to me. You want to portray a "image"? Have a substantial net worth. I have run into a boatload of suits that were up to their necks in debt and had little or no net worth. But they did wear nice clothes (if your into that).Shorts and t-shirts for me all the time. Those things (suits) look hot and uncomfortable. But then again I live at the beach and I'm retired. My wife did buy me a few suits from David Rickey. If you spend that kind of money for a brand name why not make it bespoke. Instead of hemming this and that and buying stuff off the rack. By the way, I have never worn the suits she bought. I do own convertible pants . I have to wear them to restaurants that won't let me in wearing shorts. I always unzip them at the table and walk out wearing shorts. What can they do, take their food back?


Life is too short to not be as comfortable as you can all the time.

 

I like suits, a lot actually. But, I prefer modern cut; 3 button, and most times a flat front pant. I do "dress it up" with only french cuff shirts. For everyday utility, the banana republic suits (off the rack) fit me perfectly.

 

zjpj, You are a true gentleman, little compares to what our friends in the Men's Salon at Bergdorf can do for you when tailoring a suit. All men, I suggest you subscribe to the free Bergdorf mag/catalog. It comes out bi-monthly.

http://www.bergdorfgoodman.com/store/catalog/shell.jhtml?itemId=cat000019&parentId=cat000010&masterId=cat000009

Back on the subject, the Italian suits are very nice if you are more the jet set type, lots of international business. Armani is a lable-whore suit.

Go to www.FirstView.com and look at the collections

I have a nice Victor and Rolf, a few Hugo Boss suits (very west LA), the Marc Jacobs you see on the site, and Alessandro Dell'Acqua.

Cerruti, Dior, Helmut Lang, are also great choices.

I used to like what we had for Men's designs at BCBG when I was art director there, but they never made it to production. Affordable and stylish tough, maybe they have something now.

 

the good zegna materials are used in the napoli line...the trofeo and soft collections are pretty good but dont compare to zegna napoli, brioni, kiton, etc....brioni feels like a uniform to me, even in made to measure...kiton feels totally relaxed and is my favorite...armani is mass produced, zegna is also really commercialized but if u go with a made to measure napoli its tough to beat...also, generically buying off the rack does not compare to made to measure...

for shirts its tought to beat turnbull and asser bespoke

richards and mitchells in greenwich and westport are the best places to go in my opinion

http://www.hugyourcustomers.com

 

I am kind of littering this high-end thread, but I was thinking about posting this last night so I will just ask here. I am only 18 and need a suit just for various functions. It will just be a first suit, so it obviously doesn't need to be a 5k Brioni or something like that. I am not sure if I will be wearing it to a job interview or anything, but there is always that possibility.

Any ideas with what I should go with? Affordable is always good, I am not sure what the price range will be (the money comes from my dad), but it will for sure be under 400$. I have looked on sites like bluefly etc., but they are all too expensive (the "good" brands). Ebay has some decent stuff, but it is probably tough to get something that is right for me online. Especially since I have no real sizing guidelines.

Also, is anyone built like me? 6'0 145 lbs... I tried on a few cheapo department store suits. It seems like 40 is a bit too big, 39 just is about right, and some 38's are ok. Of course being in between just complicates things

Thanks for any help.

 

ralessi, the way to find the right size for you will be to mesure your chest under your underarms. That is your suit size. If it's 39 inches around your chest, then you will be a size 39. Judging from how tall you are, I would say you would be "regular" length.

Ebay is actually a good bet, in my opinion, because sellers provide measurements of the clothes. Again, shoulder width and chest are most important. Measure how wide your shoulders are and see if that works with the measurements. Then measure your chest. You need to be comfortable, and most people allow two inches for comfort. In other words, if you measure your chest and you are 39 inches, then on Ebay look for a suit which measures 41 inches in the chest.

As for pricing, you will find many nice suits for under $400 on Ebay. I hope the measurement info has been helpful. Good luck.

 

I searched on Ebay for 39R suits, and this is what I came up with:

http://search.ebay.com/ws/search/SaleSearch?a54=-24&a53=2332&a58=2395&a47=-24&a56=-24&sapricelo=&sapricehi=&combine=N&satitle=&socurrencydisplay=1&reqtype=1&sotimedisplay=2&ht=1&catref=C3&pfid=28&sacategory=1059&alist=a54%2Ca53%2Ca58%2Ca47%2Ca56&sotextsearched=&basicformname=forminput&sosortproperty=3&from=R10&gcs=27&sosortorder=2

The Dunhill looks really nice, but again, check the measurements.

Here are the 40R suits, sorted by price:

http://search.ebay.com/ws/search/SaleSearch?a54=-24&a53=2333&a58=2395&a47=-24&a56=-24&sapricelo=&sapricehi=&combine=N&satitle=&socurrencydisplay=1&reqtype=1&sotimedisplay=2&ht=1&catref=C3&pfid=28&sacategory=1059&alist=a54%2Ca53%2Ca58%2Ca47%2Ca56&sotextsearched=&basicformname=forminput&sosortproperty=3&from=R10&gcs=27&sosortorder=2

Good luck

 

I like Tom James suits. They will come to your office, measure you and you pick the material quality, color and style(from $400 to $4000) and a few weeks later a custom made suit arrives made to a perfect fit.

 

How about for shoes? Bruno Magli? Alden? Testoni? Obviously John Lobb (but they are so overpriced!)

I just bought these alligator Bruno Maglis. I always thought they were ostentatious, but I tried them with this tan suit that I have and they actually look really classy.

 

I think Brioni is my #1 although I like Zannella (sp?) alot also. Valentino has some nice stuff. Versace is way too effeminate & Armani never really did it for me. Theres a nice boutique in Manhattan I shop at a lot called Dino Baldini's on Madison in the 40s. They have lots of nice stuff too

 

ralessi, u should be able to find canali proposta line for ur price range or just a bit more...


with respect to shoes i cant see paying a couple grand for bespoke shoes since i destroy them so quickly...i just go through lots of pairs of ferragamos and my feet are happy...

 

I disagree.

Loro Piana makes the best fabrics IMO.

 

Richard James for suits;

http://www.richardjames.co.uk/



Church for shoes;


http://www.churchsshoes.com/TEMPLATE/FrontEnd/index.cfm

 

I usually mix and match. But I only were suits here and there , maybe 3-4 times a week, I don't have a wear a suit every friggin day kinda job.
Armani fits me, but Zegna feels better. Gucci makes good dress shirts that fit well on me too, the way they're supposed too, not the way P Diddy wants them too...

As far as normal everyday casual stuff, I do like the Italian brands as well... Versace being a favorite, as well as Prada.

Here is an outfit I'll be getting in the near future... typical type of gear I'd wear, but not always Versace, I'm a broke ass student so... I gotta save for this stuff.

http://www.raffaello-network.com/raffties/detail.php?itemid=26956&rangeid=380 Long sleeve

http://www.raffaello-network.com/raffties/detail.php?itemid=19404&rangeid=380 Denim

http://www.raffaello-network.com/raffties/detail.php?itemid=26958&rangeid=380 Sweater

http://www.raffaello-network.com/raffties/detail.php?itemid=27575&rangeid=60 Belt

http://www.raffaello-network.com/raffties/detail.php?itemid=13954&rangeid=28 Kicks

http://www.raffaello-network.com/raffties/sunglass.php?itemid=19855&rangeid=36 Shades

No, I'm not gothic, I know it's a lotta black...
And yeah, $1800 for jeans and few shirts are a lot, but they are really great quality and they get you laid, but I don't know anything about that.

 

Just bought a new charcole-grey single breasted Ermenegildo Zegna suit, Zegna reversable black/brown belt, Anthony Squires tie and blue Armani shirt to go with it.

Thinking about getting a camel cashmere wool overcoat. I think it's something that is very useful in that it will go with a lot of different clothes, is not as severe as a black overcoat and much more practical than a brown one.

Thoughts?

 

Okay, dude. This is the link that you need to size online clothing that's right for you.

http://www.styleforum.net/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?s=4040110ed1c4ffff;act=ST;f=1;t=885

Also, it's not a bad site on style.

 

I would recommend syms if you are not looking to spend a lot but want something decent. They have a huge selection to choose from and they have employees there to fit you and an on staff tailor. The website is www.syms.com
If you are buying your first suit I would suggest getting a dark colored suit as that will work best for you for job interviews and not to be morbid but you will also have something to wear for funerals.