TR warmup/run problems. HELP!!

Hi,
My 86TR did the similar many years ago. Its carbon build up in your system. When the car is ice cold (weeks of sitting) I start warm up engine for 3 minutes/when temp gauge moves, and put her in gear and keep it in 1st for a few blocks to warm up the gear box,rear end and tranny. Once temps up to normal I go driving. Sounds like she needs her legs stretched for a nice long hwy drive at 70mph in 4th with a higher rev to blow out the carbon. Worked for me, and never done it since.Though, you know the car better....do you do alot of city driving? Long warm ups? Low rpms when you shift gears?

 

It sounds to me, like you have a problem with either the thermotime switch, or one/or both of the cold start injectors. This cold start system works when cold........and you seem to have no problem. But, it is supposed to run for only a few seconds........controlled by the thermotime switch, which turns the injectors off.

It would seem that the thermotime switch is not closing at the proper temperature, allowing the start injectors to run longer........reason for black smoke. By the time the temp reaches normal, the thermotime switch closes.......thus it runs well when fully warm.

 

Craig -- You could have more than 1 problem. Although there may be other problems that cause it, one thing to check for the "drooping idle at decelleration but then recovers" is the throttle microswitch -- see:

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13067&highlight=microswitch

With regard to your bad warm restart (yet good warm running) -- it's perplexing because on a KE-Jetronic TR, the major components involved in each mode are the same. The only difference that I'm aware of is that during a warm restart the injection ECU gives a slightly different current to the EM actuator on the fuel distributors to enrichen the mixture for a brief time (and that time depending on the temp thermistor resistance I believe).

Are you able to tell when you have the over-rich problem if it's both banks or just 1 bank? (If you have a stock exhaust I believe they are co-mingled so both sides would smoke for a 1 bank problem, but if you have a Tubi then the tips are bank related so that could give a clue)

During good warm running idle have you tried putting a voltmeter on the O2 sensor output wire from each bank? They should be behaving similarly and each banging around between 0.1 to 0.9V if it's really running closed-loop. If one or both are just "stuck" on a single voltage value this would indicate some definite unhealth.