348 front brake pads R&R?

When you push the caliper pistons in to release the old pads and make room for the new pads, the level in the master resoiroir will increase. Use a turkey baster to lower the level first to avoid a nasty spill of brake fluid.

After you are done, change the brake fluid--e.g. a whole pint of fluid, and bleed until you can see new fluid.

Then go out and take her for a drive. Be careful because the brakes have not been bedded in. Brake progressively harder and harder until either A) brake pads fully seat on the rotors, or B) you can tell something is amiss. In case B) return and analyse then fix and retry.

After this bedding in process, drive 50 miles on you favorite back road using copious amounts of brakes. Then come back and flush the fluid again. At this point the fluid is completely fresh and will last 2 years (non track use) before anything needs done here again.

 

If you are going to do both ends do them together as this optimizes the bleeding procedure and gets the fluid to its freshest point. If you are only going to do one end and then wait until the other end needs done, then just follow 1/2 the procedure.

Since I track my car a lot, I have fallen into a pattern: the front brakes last 5 track day, while the rears last 7 track days. I change them both at the same time since the rears have less then 25% life remaining when I change the fronts, its quick insurance, and prevents me from having a bad day at the track when the rear pads fail at 9:00 AM--ask me how I know.

 

actually, if you are changing the compound of the pads, or a brand/type of pad, you should change all four corners to keep the balance and also not to disrupt any ABS (if you have it in any car).

the only time you want to swap out just the fronts or just the rears with a different compound/brand/type of pad is when you are shooting for different balances in your braking system, which a proportioning valve might not work in your system, or temperatures are being examined and need to be relieved.

my advice: change all four at once unless you already have greenstuff on the rears.

not sure if you'll dig the greenstuff pads, but they should work fine, not too dusty, and not too squeaky (if at all) on the street. for the next set, on down the line, you can look into some ferodo or cobalts which can be a bit stickier, not too dusty nor squeaky as well.

and don't forget to bleed those brake lines!

 

No that happened with the Ferrari pads a year earlier and I was lucky only to scratch up the belly pan. When I went through the rear pads, the whole car would shudder when brakes were applied--metal on metal braking (hic).