How do I get canned model spraypaint to look good? | FerrariChat

How do I get canned model spraypaint to look good?

Discussion in 'Collectables, Literature, & Models' started by ryalex, Jan 11, 2004.

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  1. ryalex

    ryalex Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Aug 6, 2003
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    I can't stop these Testor's spraypaints from wrinkling!

    How do I get them to go on smooth?

    After several tries and stripping the paint off, I just did it by hand. This was on two separate models...
     
  2. tifosi12

    tifosi12 Four Time F1 World Champ
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    Oct 3, 2002
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    In my town spraypaints are illegal, so I have to buy whatever I can find when I'm in the suburbs. Normally I just go to ACE hardware and clean out their supply on whatever they have. Never had any wrinkle problems. At least not on the models...Getting older though.
    :)

    For my Ferrari models I'm using actually real Ferrari Rosso Corsa paint from a Ferrari supply shop. They put that into spraycans. I had 'Flex' added for the plastic models. Got it complete with its own primer and finish. Guess I need now some Meguiars to wax the models...
     
  3. ryalex

    ryalex Two Time F1 World Champ
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    I guess 'huffing' was a popular trend?

    How expensive is the actual paint? What's "Flex"?

    Obviously, I'm a modelling beginner - I just picked it up last year.
     
  4. PWehmer

    PWehmer Formula 3

    Oct 15, 2002
    1,733
    Surrounded by Water
    Carefully decant the spraycan contents into a jar.

    Run it thruough a decent airbrush- you'll be much more pleased with the results.
     
  5. djs308

    djs308 Formula 3
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    Sep 2, 2002
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    Although I'm not a good painter myself, I've read up on the subject some years back. Pwhemer's advice is correct. The paint that's in the spraycan is just to thick! The same is true for their bottle paints that are applied by hand; just TOO thick. I don't remember the ratio, but there is a certain formula to use (how many drops of paint vs. how many drops of "thinner" or "flex"). Once the paint is thinned somewhat, it will flow onto the surface much smoother. You can then layer on more coats while maintaining a smooth finish.
     
  6. Prowler

    Prowler Karting

    Jan 10, 2004
    149
    Glendale,Arizona
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    Matt
    i use rattle can alot.....make sure you wash the body of the car with a grease cutting detergent and let air dry.you can use a blow dryer to speed it along(just make sure you don't get too close and melt the body).also do not touch the body with your fingers after you wash it.if you warm the body the paint will flow better.you can also heat some water on the stove in a pan,remove the pan from the stove and place the paint can in the warm water for a few minutes to warm the paint.i bent a coathanger to hold the body from the inside so i can hang it while i paint it.i spray on a light mist coat(very thin) then let it get tacky(10 min or so timewise depending on type of paint) then spray on another light coat,let that dry.then spray on a slightly heavier coat,then let that dry and then spray on a color coat.always work from light colors to dark if possible.you will have to practice some to get the technique down but once you do you can achieve pretty decent results.however,an airbrush allows better control for spraying the paint,but can cost alot of money to start up.if you want i can post a couple pics of my spray can painted models so you can see what can be done.just let me know.
     
  7. SefacHotRodder

    SefacHotRodder F1 World Champ

    Dec 20, 2003
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    yes please prowler. i'm debating wether to re-do or sell a mclaren gtr model i have ( i botched up the first 2 times and its just sitting under my bed)
     
  8. tifosi12

    tifosi12 Four Time F1 World Champ
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    Oct 3, 2002
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    I forgot the price, but it was not cheap. Originally I got it for my car to fix dings and scratches, but the color didn't exactly match. No wonder a 20 year old Ferrari vs freshly mixed paint.

    Flex is some additive I asked them to put into it to make the paint more flexible. I needed that to spray paint rubber on the real car, but it works nicely on plastic models as well.

    What others said about the airbrush is true. That is the ultimate modeler's tool. However after over 30 years in the hobby I still haven't gotten to that point. Every time I read about them I'm thinking of the mess of cleaning that equipment. And then I pick up another rattle can and am happy with it. As I said, I'm the world's fastest modeler, not the best...
    :)
     
  9. carl63_99

    carl63_99 Karting

    Oct 22, 2001
    199
    I'm not sure what this "wrinkle" you allude to is, may or may not be orange peel, the most common spray can problem. orange peel comes from the paint actually starting to dry before hitting the model surface, and results in a not-too-smooth finish. If you must use rattle cans, you can put the can in a pan of warm water for a few minutes before painting, so the paint will flow on better. Try for a low-humidity day/envorinment too.

    Now, if that "wrinkle" is actually a texture developing on the surface, it is most likely caused by chemical reaction of the paint and primer or model surface, meaning you're screwed. For that, you'll have to strip the model, use Castrol Super Clean or some brand of oven cleaner. Either will take off all the paint, you can wash it with dish soap and start over again. Good Luck!
     
  10. AnotherDunneDeal

    AnotherDunneDeal F1 Veteran

    Jun 2, 2003
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    James Dunne
    You did not mention (or at least I did not see) if you are using primer on the surface or not. If not, you need to. Do not get in a hurry. Let the primer dry and then spray on a light tack coat. About 10 to 12 inches from the model with a light dusting will do. While this is still tacky put on a thicker color coat but not not a wet coat yet. After applying several coats and allowing it to get tacky between sprayings, go back and apply a wet coat (apply from the bottom of the model to the top). Applying from the top to the bottom could cause the paint to run with buildup. Move in a smooth motion, never stopping or turning back in the opposite direction without first directing the spray totally away from the model.

    I too use a metal coat hanger that I bend backwards and place under it
    the model so that I do not touch it while painting and can turn it in any direction I need. The quickest way to do this is to grasp the hook of the hanger in one hand and finding the middle of the lower support, grasp it in the middle and pull straight out 180 degrees opposing the hook. Now you will have two rods looped at one end and hook at the other. Go to the middle of the hanger now and bend it back about 130 degrees. You will see how it can be used to help hold the model in place now.

    Learning to paint on models can be very frustrating at times and if the paint is too thick, will just not dry right no matter what you do. Like was said before. Shake the can a lot and often and do not allow it to become cold. Warm paint does flow better. A hair blower works well on the can.
     
  11. Sean F.

    Sean F. F1 Rookie

    Feb 4, 2003
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    Go to a local hobby store and find this book...

    http://store.yahoo.net/kalmbachcatalog/12192.html

    or get it online. I have an older version so it's been updates some per the cover.

    Their are some good articles not only about using a rattle can to get a nice smooth finish, but also how to use and airbrush.

    I use my airbrush for detail work, but piant my F1-cars with Tamiya Spray. Great stuff, hard to use, smells like hell but nothing is better (it's an acryilic laquer).

    He's one..

    http://www.ipmsgreatplains.com/Gallery_SeanFischbach.htm

    those pics aren't very good, but you can see the paint looks smooth.

    Oh, and it takes lots of practice to get a nice finish. One of the most difficult things in modeling IMO is getting a nice, wrinkle free, dust free gloss finish.

    I've even got a paint booth and I still muck it up sometimes.
     
  12. ryalex

    ryalex Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Thanks guys. The "wrinkles" were orange peel... I'm thinking it was probably the Hawaiian humidity - the paint probably absorbed too much moisture as it was in the air.

    Fortunately/unfortunately, I don't have that problem anymore...
     
  13. Prowler

    Prowler Karting

    Jan 10, 2004
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    #13 Prowler, Jan 12, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    the front of my 1988 toyota cv.this wa painted all by rattle can.white base coat with a masked blue top coat.
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  14. Prowler

    Prowler Karting

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    #14 Prowler, Jan 12, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  15. Prowler

    Prowler Karting

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    #15 Prowler, Jan 12, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  16. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

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    What is Tamiya spray? Do you have a link? Thanks

    I'm starting to get into gas monster trucks - Like the Traxxas T-Maxx and want to learn how to paint new bodys for it. I also saw a nice electric Tamiya 360 challenge that may be fun to build one day.
     
  17. Prowler

    Prowler Karting

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    #17 Prowler, Jan 12, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    and for those of you that are curious.....the toyota is 1/24 scale..the rear bonnet is from the one f40 i have that i am rebuilding......
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  18. Prowler

    Prowler Karting

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    if i'm not wrong,tamiya offers their paint in spray cans as well.if you don't know yet,RC bodies are best painted on the inside of the body and painted in reverse order from normal.
     
  19. Prowler

    Prowler Karting

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    #19 Prowler, Jan 12, 2004
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  20. tifosi12

    tifosi12 Four Time F1 World Champ
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    I just caught the R/C bug myself (all I'm doing is relive my childhood, it's pathetic). R/C cars are all about driving, not really about looking that great. And if they do, Murphy guarantees you, that you slam it into the wall first time out. So don't go nuts with painting those. Rattle cans are good enough. And yes, you spray the clear resin skin from the inside out.

    I'm actually doing it differently right now: I bought a cheap R/C 360. Looked like crap. Now I'm repainting it. Using rattle cans (the rosso corsa) on the outsinde (no clear resin skin). I'll put several coats of paint and clear lacquer on it for protection, but I won't go overboard doing too nice of a job. I know I'll slam that sucker eventually into a sidewalk.
     
  21. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

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    Can you expand on that - I am with you about painting them on the inside, but what do you mean by the reverse order from normal? I have no idea what normal even is. :)

    Andreas - I wouldn't spend much time making my truck look too nice, but if I got the 360, I would want it to look a little nicer. Guaranteed, I will break the thing though. lol

    I just got the truck off ebay & sent the check today - Should get it in a week or so - I can't wait! My neighbor has one & everytime I see him working on it in the garage, he is fixing something he broke from the last outing - he likes the huuuuuuge air. hehe
     
  22. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

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    #22 Chiaro_Slag, Jan 12, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  23. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

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    #23 Chiaro_Slag, Jan 12, 2004
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  24. Prowler

    Prowler Karting

    Jan 10, 2004
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    if you are putting decals on it you put those onto/into the body first.then your color coat.that way the decals are in first and when you spary the color it won't cover the decals.on a normal model,you would paint first then put the decals on last step.
     
  25. Chiaro_Slag

    Chiaro_Slag F1 Veteran

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    Thanks! Makes sense. :)
     

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