Hi, I just finished pulling my 81 GTSi engine out of the car, took the whole thing apart (just about), cleaned it etc. All 4 camshafts have been removed. Question: what is the proper/easiest procedure to re-install the camshafts? Before I disassembled them, I made sure that with the flywheel at the 1-4 PMS mark, all the marks ont the camshaft where properly aligned (front and rear banks). I guess it is just a matter of repositioning them the same. I read several posts about changing the belts but did not find anything related to having all 4 camshafts out at once. Thanks, Gianluca
I just went through this with my TR........had to replace some shim buckets. Put a cam in place with the timing marks aligned. You will see that several nuts can be started. I turned each nut 1/2 turn till I was able to get more of the nuts on......eventually all. I then tightened each nut, from the center out, till the cam was in it's final place. Then torque down the cam nuts, again, from the inside out. The torque should be only about 6.5 ft-lbs. Don't forget to liberally coat the cam lobes, and cam bearing areas, with assembly lube. Keep watching the timing mark, so that the cam doesn't turn while tightening the nuts. Good luck............it is NOT that hard.
You need to be especially careful with the 1-4 or 1-6 bank, as the 4 or 6 valves are on the overlap and very close to each other and the piston. It is very easy to pull the cam down, slightly mis aligned, and bend the valves on the piston top. You won't feel it through tightening the cam caps either. I prefer to install the cams with the pistons well down, then re time it all with better feel once everything is tight. Dont forget to make sure the cam oil seal housings are very clean and dry, and make a good job of installing the seals with only minimal silicon at the gasket surface joints. Lubricate the seal lightly with oil, without getting any on the housing side. Excessive assembly lube/grease lead to the oil filter blockage/failure of many Ferrari's. Engine oil is sufficient, or minimal lube only. Make sure the caps are the right way up, the engraved or stamped numbers can be easily mis read. They are line bored with the numbers the right way up to each other.
When I did my 328, I made a couple of 1/4 X 2" steel straps (with protective pads) that used valve cover holes to push the cams down. These devices were used for removal and installation of the cams. It is not my idea, I have heard of others doing similar things to prevent pushing the valves down with the cam caps. If you are interested I can post a picture of the straps. You need two because on one of the front cams two sets of lobes need to be compressed. One note of caution, particularly for people working with the engine in the car--be very careful about droping any nuts or washers into the the head. I used an oversize fender washer just in case I did drop it, it would be easier to find. Good Luck, Mark
http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/79558/265850.html?1058493379 See above for the pics when I did the same thing last June, Except for taking the motor out. I put on QV rotor adapters on the intake cams so I could run QV ingnition rotors Everything in this post so far is true, turn the cam unitl they rest in the head, put on the nuts and turn till it aligns. Mind you not to much. But just enough to take th load off the cam. i used liquid papaer wo marj the timing marks and it works so well as you can see in the pictures. Don't forget the rebuild lube, you will be surpursed how long it will take to build up oil pressure when you first start it up. it will seem like and internty, but a good 30 seconds. Good luck, kelly
Hi Mark, If you would I would like to see the images of the straps. I am going through a 30K myself and will be doing the same procedure shortly. Thanks.
I'm sorry for the late reply--I got busy and was distracted away from this thread. Attached is a photo of the cam installation tool I made to remove and install the cams in a 328. The steel is 3/16 X 2 X 7.25" and the holes were marked from the valve cover. The holes are about 1/2" in from the edge of the strap. The wood is 3/8 X 2 X 2 attached with contact cement. The holes are slotted because I used the valve cover to locate the holes and the end set of holes in the valve cover are closer together then the rest of the holes. You do not necessarily need to slot the holes, but slotted holes will prevent the studs from getting damaged. It is also a good idea to use a large diameter fender washer when attaching thia tool because if they fall off they will be easire to find. If somebody is interested, I would probably be able to loan these out. Mark Image Unavailable, Please Login
