Headlights out

Two weeks ago I took a quick drive in my 308, and the headlights worked without any problem. Yesterday tried to turn then on and nothing happened. I have no instrument panel lights, and the lights don't pop up and are not lit. I swapped out relays without any success, and haven't replaced the fuses but visually they all look okay. My next step will be to replace all the fuses and clean the contacts. When I searched for this topic, most people who have had a failure of the headlight stalk/switch reported some intermittent symptoms or lights that would turn on and pop up only to sink back down, rather than the complete failure I seem to have. When I get time (probably after the holidays) I'll switch the fuses and if that doesn't work, look into the stalk/switch issues. Any other suggestions or anyone who has had a complete failure like this?

 

How long did you run the car?

On my 80, at times it will take a few minutes before the alt charges the battery/voltage regulator kicks in before the lights will come on.

Sometimes I have to idle 5+ minutes before the lights work.

I put a volt meter in my car (right off the battery). Until the meter shows a positvie charge, no lights....nothing.

Best of luck.

 

I'd gone one a 15-20 mile drive, and it was as I was pulling into the garage that I tried to turn on the lights. All the other lights work (turn signals, brake lights), and the alternator light turned off as usual once the car was warmed up and revved past 3K.

 

Could you have a slipping belt that isn't charging the battery as it should at low rpm?

 

My 328 had a similar problem; no headlights, no headlight motors and no instrument lights.
Sometimes I was able to get things to work again by wiggling the big plug (shown with the white arrows).
As indicated by the picture, the plug in my car had a lot of twisting tension preloading it.
That plug is just a big dual, slide-in electrical connector that plugs into tangs on the circuit board.
What ultimately happened was the solder joint on the circuit board broke loose. It looked like the solder job was a little cold, but the tension is probably the real culprit.
Anyhow, the black screws (green arrow) hold the circuit board in. Without much trouble, I was able to remove them, flip the board around and resolder the connectors from the back side.
This may not be your exact problem, but it is likely caused by that main power line circuit.

Mark
View attachment Plug 3.doc

 

Just had that on my GMC PU truck. One side was working the other was not. The fuse looked good but I had a new one already in my hand so I simply switched it out and bingo... You see the old fuse and cannot tell it was bad.

Then you may have two simultanious problems. The fuse for the interior lights and a low alterator output. Fuses are easy to check and fix.
From there also look into the light switch. They do go bad. After all the car is 30 years old.

 

I'll look into the circuit board attachment, after I replace all the fuses. I'm pretty sure the alternator is fine, as the car turns quickly, starts right up, and all other lights are working. Unfortunately, I probably won't get to this project until after the holidays. I guess it's my first project of the new year!