Piece of cake for a novice... except for: =========================================== 1. Tiny little screws on airbox, PITA 2. Dumping the oil tank by pulling four plate screws, instead of the main one -- what a mess! Actually, this was done on purpose to save the threads on the tank's main plug. (Thanks for the tip Mike Grande!) 3. Pulling those dang shrouds from the underbelly. 4. The gusher of oil that finally emerged when I pulled the main plug. Here's my question: I refilled with 10 qts of 5w30 Mobil1, then started the car for a few seconds. Pressure was fine, no temp really registered. Dipstick was dry. Added another quart. Started an idled car for about 5 minutes with occasional revs to 3K, 3.5K. Pressure looked fine, temperature started to read around 150. Dipstick was only at the MIN mark. It was late, and I wanted to head home (I was working at BORKAP house while he tuned the Miata). So I said, "screw it... that's enough oil for now." Drove home about 25 miles... pressure read normal 4-6 bars, depending on driving conditions. Temperature seemed a smidge higher than normal until I got onto the freeway... then it dropped back to normal (180 ish?) When I got home, I immediately checked the oil level, and it was dead at "MIN". I tossed another liter into the tank and came inside. All in all, I've now put 12 (twelve) liters into the car, but the manuals say 11 is the capacity. WHAT GIVES? -Daniel
Don't know about the Ferraris but in Porsches you have to let them idle for good 10 minutes before checking the oil level.However make sure there are no oil drips/leaks on the floor and if normal than make sure you are checking the right dipstick,don't ask me how i know this. Later, Yasir
No need to be hard on yourself Daniel -- it's always a good idea to cross-check specified capacity vs what you put in (and what you took out too -- which can get a little tricky if some of it's on the floor ). On the models I've had, the wet refill amount (with new filter) is somewhat under the specified "built from dry" capacity, but no experience for me fondling your model so perhaps a 348 just has a better arrangement that drains more completely. Still a good job -- did you pay yourself $300~400?
On the 308 you cannot get an accurate reading until the car has sat after running, for about ten minutes.
No, but "Mrs. Jack Russell Racing", thinks that my savings are best spent on a new pair of Prada shoes. Thanks for the encouragement. Next weekend, something less messy: a clutch cable adjustment. There's too much play in 2nd and 3rd. -Daniel
Good job Daniel. It's always great when you can do these things yourself and learn what makes you car tick.
Ata boy Daniel! You have to start some were. Next you can change your break pads, then bleed the breaks, and before you know it your doing your own engine out major.
Ahhh...the joys of living in Canada, where the metric system is king...and people still measure distances in miles. LOL!
Daniel: I find it more convenient and less messy to suction the oil out from the top of the expansion tank (hot) and eliminate having to deal with the screws under that tank alltogether. Obviously you still have to undo the engine oil pan drain but pumping out the expansion tank first decreases the level of complexity and mess by a quantum leap. And yes - it does get just as much oil out as undoing the screws. I also keep plenty of new copper sealing rings on hand for the engine oil drain replacement. Nice job!
