Run parking lights w/o headlights in up Position

That's not "right"... mine do NOT pop up when you put on the parking lights, and I didn't have to do anything to make them work that way.

 

it's a US/Euro differance, there is a post here from a few yrs back about re-wiring the harness. the wiring diagrams I have also show a difference in the harness between the US/Euro/Swiss builds on the headlights and fogs.

 

Mine did that too. As far as I have known that is the way that the US cars work from the factory. So many people disliked it that very early on most people bypassed this feature. Later owners never even knew their cars ever did it any other way. It is a very simple fix. It was such a widspread and common complaint that Italian Car Parts even sells a little wireing kit to make the change super-easy. That's what I bought and installed about 10 years ago for my car.
A few threads have addressed this fix in the past. Do a search and see what you find.

 

The guy that installed the new radio in my car fixed mine using 2 diodes. He did it all under the dash but that's about the extent of my knowledge on the fix. I'm sure it's somewhere in this or the old F-Chat.

 

I think this might tell you (in detail) how to make the appropriate modifications:

http://www.nwrfca.org/faq/308headlights.html

 

I love it!! NWRFCA comes to the rescue again. There is also a nice article there on how to brighten the dash lights!

 

I was wondering about this too. I wish that the FCA site had pictures (I am a visual person).
Thank you, Dr Tommy Cosgrove. I emailed Italian Car Parts to see if they still sell the wiring kit.

 

Hmm, then that should be an item to check during concours... but I've never heard it be an issue at any that I have been at. Steve Ahlgrim is probably the definitive resource on this.

 

I helped write that, and note that you do NOT need to use wire taps, there should be additional spade connectors on the fuse panel so you do not need to splice anything. It will become apparent when you are ready to splice, and look behind the connector on the fuse panel, that there is another male connector behind it.

 

Honestly, Mike, I have been unimpressed with concours judges since 2001 in Dallas when I spent 30 minutes showing 2 or 3 of them hidden 308 features. Most don't know or forgot important issues. I spoke with Ahlgrim about this at length at Indy back in 05.
Basically I want to be a FCA concours judge for the 3X8/Mondial entries at the very least. At least that is my goal.

 

I did the headlight mod as outlined in that article a few years ago and it works nicely. Makes a good change to the car. It was so annoying to have the headlights pop up when the running lights were on but the headlights not on.

Birdman

 

Subject: RE: Ferrari Parking Light/Headlight wiring kit...
Date: Tue, 3 Jul 2007 08:44:08 -0700


The item has been discontinued.
Regards,
Charles
www.ItalianCarParts.com

 

I don't know what the sunglass or ?? storage box is properly called. That opening which is just above the drivers knee and contains at its end, the socket for the emergency light. For the purposes of this discussion...I will refer to it as the 'box'. The box is easily removable from the dash with 2 phillips sheet metal screws and there is considerable room above it.

I installed two mini push button switches in the roof of that box and a relay above bolted to the box. The switches in that box are easily available to the driver and totally unobtrusive. When the ignition key is on, momentarily press 'ON' n.o. pb sw #1 and the relay latches and the parking lights turn on. Momentarily press the 'OFF' n.c. pb sw #2 OR turn the key off and the relay unlatches allowing the lights to turn off. Headlamp motor not in the circuit or otherwise affected.

It should be noted that my car is also modified with 2 additional relays at both right and left front, accessible in the headlight well. One relay turns sidemarkers plus all lights in the bumper on when there is voltage to the parking circuit. The other relay operates in the presence of turn indicator voltage, removing any parking light voltage and flashing all lights, including sidemarkers, front and rear, TOGETHER as turn indicators. This required using an LED flasher rather than the stock flasher to maintain flash speed since the current going through normal switch paths is 1/10 normal (another plus).

These relay mods all started when adding headlight relays which reduce the 2.5v drop to under .5v. The amount of light those stock headlights now produce is like I never imagined, no need for higher wattage here. And again save current going through current to those precious switches.

I have also added 2 relays in each door which raise the windows unbelievably fast and ditto saving the switches.

This many relays requires bulk purchase to avoid both rediculous AutoZone etc markup and their terrible Chinese quality products. I use high end Bosch bracket mount 332 209 138 spdt 50A contacts with circuitry on the coils to elliminate EMI ($3.80) except for the parking latching relay which is the double contact spst 5 terminal relay.

Parking light latching circuitry as follows - relay coil 85 to n.c. pb. Relay coil 86 to n.o. pb also to relay 87 n.o. contact #1. Relay common contact 30 to +12v key acc position also to n.o. pb. Relay 87a n.o. contact #2 to parking lights. N.c. pb to ground.
T.O. - pressing n.o. pb applies voltage to the relay coil which provides voltage to relay contact latching the relay. Pressing the n.c. pb and voltage is removed from the coil unlatching the relay. Turning key off also removes voltage from the relay coil, unlatching it. (key- n.o.=normally open / n.c.=normally closed / pb=push button)

 

I guess he was running out of cars that were still wired the factory way to sell to.

That's the thing about a 3X8/Mondial and marketing a gadget for them. Not enough cars. It's not like you're selling performance parts for a Honda that has an unlimited supply of buyers for years and years.

I am glad I bought mine when I did.

 

I think you'd be a very good one! I can introduce you to our judging chairmain at the national level if you'd like.

 

I was surprised, but in the parts book, it's called "glove box".

 

I just finished this mod yesterday.Its very easy to do.It took about 1/2 hour to do.You just have to know how to connect the two diodes together.Diodes flow electricity through one way only, a bit like a check valve(one way valve)the flow is from the anode to the cathode.The cathode is the side that the black band is closest to.Join the two diodes together at the cathode end so you end up with a Y piece

 

I am too, but if you print out the instructions, and have them in front of you as you work, it will be VERY EASY. Buying some "kit" from ICP is crazy, since you can go to any Radio Shack and get what you need for about $5.

 

on the parts list it has....... 2x 200 volt/1 amp silicon diodes is it safe use 400v as 200 v i can not get hold of cheers

 

Have you tried Jaycar?They have them there.They have a store in Perth.The address is 326 Newcastle st Northbridge.Hope it helps

 

cheers maurice
They only had 400 v 1amp so i will have to try thurs