Check Engine Light--TUBI???

Never heard that you had to "work on the codes" after installing a regular Tubi. I'm assuming you didn't remove the cats? The Tubi - by itself - would not have triggered a CE light. Maybe they shouldn't have "worked on the codes."

 

Bill,

If you have an auto parts store near you, see if you can borrow an OBDII reader (or buy one). You should be able to pull the code. If it is something you can reset go ahead and clear the code, just to see if it comes back. If it does fix the problem

How is the car running otherwise?

BTW, sometimes you can just use the switch inside the front bonnet to cut (battery) power to the ECUs and that may clear it. But, if it was me, I would want to know what the code was first.

 

same thing happened to me after a tubi was installed. not figured out what is the problem yet, but its going in end of sept to be sorted. (hopefully)

 

I have same problem, more info is in other post "TUBI + cat bypass = CEL".....

 

Petr,
you may get a light if the O2 sensors are not connected to anything. Bill on the other hand still has his cats (a good thing

Bill on the standard exhaust there is a valve, check to see that the hose that was connected to the valve is caped off. It is a long shot but I recently met a FNA tech, Greg Gunther, and he said that if the vacuum lines are not caped off a check engine light would go on. I know nothing, just repeating what he said.

 

Tony, I dont know if i have the cats or not and how to find out....

 

Bill - the stock exhaust has a vacuum operated valve on each side. The Tubi does not. When you install the tubi, you need to cap those stock lines off. As Tony pointed out, if they are left open, it could cause the CEL.

When you are standing at the rear of the car - looking at the engine - look down by the tail lights. You'll see a grey block sort of thing, with a hose and a wiring harness going to it. If you feel under it, there is a nipple where the stock line goes. Some people just plug that hose off.

On my car, (when I installed the Tubi) I ordered some nice rubber vacuum caps to seal things off (as opposed to leaving the line hanging there and plugging that up). I had to order like 50 or 100 of the caps, so if you need a couple, just let me know (e-mail me at my other address) - I'll be happy to toss a couple in the mail to you.

Below are photos. The first shows the little caps I used on my car. The others show the location on each side (see the arrows I drew in the photos for the exact locations). The left side is a bit more difficult to reach than the right side (as shown in the final photo).

Check to see if you have hoses hanging from thoese (on the bottom) and/or if the nipple where the hose goes is open. If they are open to the air, that could be the reason for the check engine light. An OBDII reader can be used to give you more information also.

Ray
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So the nipples under there were open to the air? That will do it! I just packed up a couple of those vacuum caps and will be dropping them into the mail tonight (I have to go across town to help my parents out with their computer anyway, so I'll drop them off then).

Let us know if it fixes the issue once you install them.

Ray

 

Sorry Bill, I did not see this until tonight. I also see that Ray stepped in and saved the day! Ray really helped me out also. Not only did he give me the needed vacuum caps, he also helped install my hyper-flow cats and exhaust, I am sure Ray saved me about 8 hours of work since I did not even know which tools to use

Check to see what is connected to your muffler/silencer. If it is just straight pipes back to the manifolds then you do not have Cats installed.

 

I tossed 2 vacuum caps into the mail this morning for Bill. That should help matters with the CEL.

Ray

 

nope.. but you might try www.eurospares.co.uk - also ricambiamerica.com - that's where I get all my 360 parts.

Ray

 

Until you plug those hose outlets, do not drive the car as vacuum leaks can cause all kinds of issues. Also, remember to have your radio code handy when you switch off your battery to reset these O2 codes. Battery off for about 15 minutes should do it.

 

Why 15 minutes? Do the ECUs have a battery backup system? or maybe capacitors that hold a charge? I really do not know. Regardless, I recommend always using a SD2, 3, ST05 or OBDII computer to see what the codes are before attempting to clear the memory on the ECUs.

 

That is what FNA said to do to reset mine.

 

I have tried to clear the ECU's with just a quick 5 or 10 second power cycle, and did notice the radio didn't lose its code. It may be there are some caps in there holding power for a while. Generally I kill the power for 5 minutes or so just to be safe. The real time required is probably some place around a minute or two. 5 or 10 or 15 minutes can't hurt.



Ray

 

Do you want to borrow a stopwatch?

 

Ray

 

Resurrecting this thread...

Ray, do you know the OBDII code the open lines would cause? I'm getting P0411 "Secondary air injection incorrect, upstream airflow detected", my car has Tubis, and although I can see the installer (of the PO) put a bolt in the line on right side I'm yet to verify the left side. See posting towards the end of this thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=291435

Do you still have extra caps? Probably provide a better seal than a bolt into the end of the open line.

Jes

 

I know this is a extremely old post. But I wanted to say it has saved me and has taken care of my issue. Ferrari of Orlando looked at it and ran the codes and said it is the exhaust and the small misfire would go away. My mechanic tried for a week to find the issue and came to the same solution. Saw this and capped it and check engine is off and running perfectly. Thank you all for all the responses and saving me countless dollars to have a mechanic figure it out.