What is a reasonable rake setting on a 355, inconclusive info, wrong data in the manu | FerrariChat

What is a reasonable rake setting on a 355, inconclusive info, wrong data in the manu

Discussion in '348/355' started by johan6504, Oct 26, 2007.

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  1. johan6504

    johan6504 Formula 3

    Jun 28, 2005
    1,168
    Sweden
    Full Name:
    Johan
    It is me and my H&R springs again ;-)

    I have just finished changing my spring and am sitting thinking about ride height and rake. After reading an article by Mitch Alsup, I have understood that rake and ride height is very important for the handling and behavior of the 355.

    Reading through the technical manual I see that the recommended setting for the 355 is 162-171 in the front and 182-191 at the rear. This gives a diff (or rake?) of 20 mm front to rear. The rear is 20 mm higher than the front.

    My car had originally 165 mm in front and 200 mm in the rear and I am pretty sure this was factory settings by the reading of markers on the damper etc. The car is for some reason 10 mm higher than the manual at the rear from the factory. The diff becomes 35 mm (was the higher rear from factory done to give more over steer?)

    The new spring has lowered the car to 145 mm in the front and 190 mm at the rear, the diff is now 45 mm! I have seen different recommendations of combinations in ride height but am not sure of where to start.

    All measurement was taken at the lower suspension arm bolt as described in the manual.

    So to my dilemma; I have read all I can find on this subject at different Ferrari forum but can come to a conclusion. I want to get to a reasonable rake where I can start tuning in for the correct over/under steer without going to extremes. I have driven the car as it is now, no changes made yet to camber and toe in etc. And so far I like the change but I am not sure what will happen as I change camber and toe in back to factory spec. The new diff of 45 mm sounds extreme to me but I can’t really say the car felt that different as I drove it yesterday. Surely it was more nervous but it cornered so much better, steering in to corner felt superb and the gain in steering control gave me confidence in at high speed.

    Can some one please help me decide what to do!
     
  2. johan6504

    johan6504 Formula 3

    Jun 28, 2005
    1,168
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    Johan
    Nice weather today so I decided to lower the rear by 3 turns (~5 mm), making the rake less extreme and see what happens.

    I took the car for a test run on the same roads as the other day. It was not hard to realize that the 5 mm changed the feeling of the car again. The meatier steering was not as noticeable, it did not steer into the corner as precise and I can feel that the rear has more grip pushing the front out of the corner in mid speed accelerations.

    At high speed however it did not feel as safe as before, didn’t expect that since I thought that it would be more stable. The overall feeling is that it was better before and I will go back to the original setting and take the car to do a wheel alignment next week. Maybe H&R had an idea with the spring characteristic and the change in rake?
    I am still looking for input in this subject. Hasn’t anyone else that tried what I am doing, would really like to have someone to discuss ideas with :)
     
  3. johan6504

    johan6504 Formula 3

    Jun 28, 2005
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    Johan
    #3 johan6504, Oct 30, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Today I went to do wheel alignment. We started by checking how much the lowering changed the original setting from the set up we did in June.
    This is what we found out:

    The initial settings were standard and based on the workshop manual:
    Front (L R)
    Camber: -0°.46’ -0°,48’
    Caster: 7°04’ 6°.6’
    Toe: 2.0mm 1.9mm
    Rear (L R)
    Camber: -2°.04’ -2°.08’
    Toe: 2.0mm 2.2mm

    After lowering the car these were new settings:
    Front
    Camber: -1°.27’ -1°,27’
    Caster: 7°29’ 7°20’
    Toe: 1.1mm 2.0mm
    Rear (L R)
    Camber: -2°.35’ -2°.48’
    Toe: 2.9mm 4.0mm

    Camber and toe changed a lot, not very surprising as this was as expected I guess.
    The changes we did this time were to correct the toe, front and rear and leave the camber and caster for now. The change in camber in the rear doesn’t seem to be that extreme but in the front it might be a little too much, but I wanted to try this out and decided to stick with it for now.

    The new setting I am using now is:
    Front
    Camber: -1°.3’ -1°,3’
    Caster: 7°29’ 7°20’
    Toe: 2.1mm 2.0mm
    Rear (L R)
    Camber: -2°.35’ -2°.42’
    Toe: 2.1mm 2.0mm

    Took the car for a long drive today, great weather and a lot warmer than you normally expect in Sweden this time of the year :)
    Started with my favorite twisty road and can once again establish that in low and mid speed corners the car feels absolutely great. The grip is so MUCH better than before the lowering and I can now feel when the rear moves into a slight over steer. Going through really tight corners like driving fast through a roundabout the grip just makes me laugh :)

    The second part was going back home via the highway and it is easy to feel that the change in toe made the car more on the edge. It is more nervous, not so much that it needs to be checked on all the time, but if I turn the wheel it will react directly. So as long as I don’t move the wheel it is fine ;-) Once again I found it hard to really test mid to high speed corners, there is usually too much traffic and I might have to wait until spring when I can get to the track to really test this. The overall feeling is that I am improving but there is probably more to do. One thing I am not sure of is how the new camber setting will wear the tires.

    Feel free to comment on these setting and thoughts as I am in the need of all the input I can get.
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  4. johan6504

    johan6504 Formula 3

    Jun 28, 2005
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  5. rexrcr

    rexrcr Formula 3
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    Nov 27, 2002
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    Hey Johan, good thread.

    Your alignment specifications look good for a road (not track only) driven F355, street tires; it's at maximum negative camber for street driving and any hope for acceptable tire wear. Be careful on toe settings as alot of toe combined with negative camber will potentially destroy tires very quickly.

    Chassis rake settings are a powerful tool for adjusting both overall grip and especially over/understeer characteristics. I measure from the bottom of the chassis, just behind the front tires and just ahead of the rear tires; it's easier than the centerline of the control arm mounting fork bolt and keep this in mind while looking at my data. Measure your car in the same places to make a conversion factor.

    I've run ride heights and rake from one extreme to the other. For ultimate grip and fast lap times the lower the better for ride height. In general, I always set the front suspension very low, just enough to not bottom in any important area of the track and then tune balance with rear ride height.

    For rake specifically i've run as much as 45mm (65mm front, 110mm rear) to negative 15mm (95mm front, 80mm rear).

    Closer to zero rake aids stability (negative rake is the extreme for stability), increase rake for improved rotation, especially turn-in.

    Again, keep in mind I've always measured in a different area than the factory. Best way to make fine tuning adjustments is the controled environment of a race track.

    Best,
    Rob
     
  6. rexrcr

    rexrcr Formula 3
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    Also be warry of toe settings in the rear. I've run as much as 45' (minutes) total toe-in for the rear to aid stability. Front toe setting is totally personal preference, a little toe-out for turn-in perhaps. I'd stick close to zero front to 15' toe-in total.

    Not enough rear toe-in will promote cornering instability. The F355 rear suspension toes-in in bump, but not a lot of gain. The front suspension toes out in bump with much higher rate compared to the rear rate of change.

    Best,
    Rob
     
  7. johan6504

    johan6504 Formula 3

    Jun 28, 2005
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    Hi Rob
    Thanks for commenting, really appreciate it!

    I went down to the garage and measured the height behind front wheel and in front of rear wheel as you describe. The height is 117 mm in front and 135 in the rear, so in your world the rake is 18 mm. Does this tell you anything, would you say this is an extreme setting? I can’t go any lower in front since this is the very limit of my driveway ;-)

    When you say:
    “Also be warry of toe settings in the rear. I've run as much as 45' (minutes) total toe-in for the rear to aid stability.”
    Are my 4.0mm of total toe-in too much, will this ware my tires excessively. How does my total toe in 4.0mm compare to your 45’?

    “Front toe setting is totally personal preference, a little toe-out for turn-in perhaps. I'd stick close to zero front to 15' toe-in total.”
    For now I think I will stay with toe-in. How does the total toe in of 4.0 mm compare to your 0-(total 15’)?

    When you give values for toe-in you use minutes, my numbers are in mm. Is there a way to convert this? I guess I could go back to Tomas in the workshop and ask him to change the units in the machine, but if there is a way to convert, that would be a lot easier ;-)

    So what you are saying is that if I keep the camber settings, a reasonable setting for front and rear toe-in would then be 0-15’ total toe-in in front and up to 45’ total toe-in in rear based on how much rear stability I need. Any chance you could give me that in mm… ;-)

    Regards
    Johan Lundberg
     
  8. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    +1

    You said it!
     
  9. rexrcr

    rexrcr Formula 3
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    I like minutes as it makes comparison to other wheel/tire sizes easy.

    Assume you have a 18 inch wheel diameter but that measuring rim to rim it's about 19 inches (this is typical), or wherever the measuring gauge sits (maybe on the tire itself).

    19 inches converts to 482.6mm, this is one side of a triangle, and since we're looking at angles less than 1 degree, the difference in length between hypotenuse and base is irrelevant.

    Sine (45 arc_minutes) (482.6mm) = 6.3mm

    Remember, 30 minutes is 0.5 degrees (60 minutes in 1 degree). Some measure toe in tenths of a degree and camber is typically stated in degrees and tenths of a degree (confusing, sorry).

    45' of total toe-in will certainly scrub your new tires to dust; this is a racing alignment example, sorry for the confusion.

    Your rear toe settings are nicely conservitive, I would reduce your front toe settings a bit, but that's up to your feel. Just keep an eye on the insides of the tires for excessive wear.

    Your rake setting is fine, tune to balance as you like.

    Best,
    Rob
     
  10. ernie

    ernie Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Great stuff Rob!!! Thanks for the insight.
     
  11. johan6504

    johan6504 Formula 3

    Jun 28, 2005
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    #11 johan6504, Oct 31, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Thanks Rob great info!

    Had to think for a second there, but finally got it :)
    Sine (45 arc_minutes) (482.6mm) = 6.3mm is the same as: Sine (45/60) (482.6mm) = 6.3mm

    While surfing another Swedish racing forum I came across this reference table, thought it might be useful in thread.
    Since this table does not have the 19", extrapolating between 6.0 and 6.55 seems close enough :) I now understand why it is easier to use degrees rather than mm!
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  12. cscott67

    cscott67 Formula Junior

    May 13, 2007
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    Rob, does anyone make a kit to eliminate the bumpsteer on 348/355? And without going into too much detail, does the tie-rod need to be moved away from the knuckle, or closer to it/flipped? Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions. Scott
     
  13. johan6504

    johan6504 Formula 3

    Jun 28, 2005
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    Got a chance to corner weight the car at this year’s first track day. I was very pleased with the new springs and the setup but wasn’t sure about the corner weight. This is the setting for the car without (and with) me in it.

    Total weight 1436 (1512) Kg

    LF 302 (331) Kg RF 310 (329) Kg
    LR 417 (445) Kg RR 407 (414) Kg

    Weight front 43%
    Weight rear 57%

    It looks like the front is close to spot on, only 2 Kg with me in the car. The rear has a diff of 29 Kg with more weight on the left wheel with me in the car. It looks as if the car is more balanced with two persons in it as the weigh diff is only 10 Kg empty.

    I guess that these figures are pretty good but I would love if someone could comment on them as this is my first attempt to tune a car.

    Questions so far
    Is the 30 Kg diff at the rear something I should try to correct?
    Any comments on the front/rear distribution?
     
  14. andrewmr

    andrewmr Formula Junior

    Jun 7, 2005
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    Michael
    Hey guys.....

    You aren’t so much trying to equalize the weights from side to side as you are trying to equal the weights of the opposing corners added together. Let me explain. In your example:

    LF 331 Kg RF 329 Kg
    LR 445 Kg RR 414 Kg


    You would add the left front and right rear to get one number and then the right front and left rear to get the other. You should then move the preload on the spring(s) to get that number as close to equal as you can. Note that this may make for more of a weight difference across the sides of the car. Again, using your numbers, 331 plus 414 is 745 and 329 plus 445 is 774. if you take a little preload out of the left rear it will reduce the weight on it's corner as well as the right front and add weight to the opposite (diagonal) corners. You can try an experiment by placing coasters under the legs of a four post bar stool. As you add the coasters you will quickly create a situation where the stool will rock back and forth on the two corners (the one with the coasters and the opposing corner). There will be no (minimal) weight on the other diagonal.

    You’re looking at a difference of 29 (774 minus 745) kilos. I would try taking a half turn out of the left rear and see what happens (I like taking the spring down instead of up on the other corner but whatever works for you). Whatever weight comes out of the left rear (percentage wise) will be added to the right rear and left front and of course weight will be moved off of the right front at the same time. Give it a try and see how this works, it’s actually pretty interesting to see the results and how moving one corner affects the other three.
     
  15. johan6504

    johan6504 Formula 3

    Jun 28, 2005
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    Thanks for the info, i will try that half tur on the left rear and see whar happens :)
     
  16. johan6504

    johan6504 Formula 3

    Jun 28, 2005
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    #16 johan6504, Apr 21, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  17. johan6504

    johan6504 Formula 3

    Jun 28, 2005
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    #17 johan6504, Sep 24, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Öhlin will be releasing a new series of TTX damper in january. TTX 36 inline. The earlier damper had a fixed canister and could not be fitted to the F355 but this one looks promising!
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