Wiring Replacement Window Switches Boxer GT4 etc

they were a Mercedes or fiat part and were less than $50.00 each when i replaced them. ill have to look for my pics and part numbers.

 

i quoted myself from the cross ref thread, but i know one of the 308's i had after that, i found another source or donor car for the switches. i do remember the gt4 was different from the gtb and gts 308's i had, as far as the switches go.

i will look and post of i can find the info. i have 7 hard drives and 3 computers now!

 

FWIW, the 328 uses a five pin window switch. That may be what the "new" switches are. (You'd have to tone them out to be sure.)

I haven't seen the GT4's wiring. Do you have switches on the driver's side for both windows?

With only four connections, I'd guess the GT4's window wiring is considerably different from a 328s.
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The hashed circles are the barely visible in a photo darkroom illumination lights.

On a 328, that 12v is ignition switched. (To keep the dim bulbs from draining the battery, I guess.)

I haven't seen a GT4 wiring diagram online. Is there one in the owner's manual?

 

"V" and "G" is "Verde" (Green) and "Giallo" (Yellow) and is simply the labeling of the wire colours. These wires go straight to the motors. "Verde" to the left door and "Giallo" to the right door.

As for the ground loop terminals, maybe make up a little Y-shaped jumper wire that attaches to both terminals on the switch, with the single end attaching to the factory ground wire. It will essentially copy the internal make-up of the original switches if you look closely to the wiring diagram...

 

Which I should have specified that the ground wires are the doubled-up black wires. If you so dared, you could pull those two out and give them each a terminal connector (but try it first with the Y-shaped jumper wire just in case I'm wrong... ).

 

If you look at the 328's passenger side wiring, you'll see that pins 2 and 4 are what 1 and 5 connect to at rest. On the master switch, they're ground. On the slave switch, they're "loop": passing through the signals from the master switch.
(So the "loop ground" is more like "loop/ground". In electronics, a "ground loop" is something different -- a long chain of wires with separated grounds at each end, with the potential for induced current flow within.)

Normally, both sides of the motor are grounded. When you press the window switch, one side of the window motor is switched from ground to voltage. Press the switch the other way, and the other side of the window motor gets voltage. (On the 328, if the driver was trying to put the window up while the passenger was pressing "down", you'd get voltage to both sides of the motor, and it wouldn't turn at all.)

Since you don't have a slave switch, then you only need to ground those pins. Because of the "loop", they're separate on the five pin switch, where there was only the one on your original switch. For your purposes, you'd be replicating the driver's side wiring for both windows.

(Oddly enough, the drivers side and passenger side switches are different Ferrari part numbers on the 328, even though they look alike and the wiring diagram shows them having the same connections -- the same as your new switches. So those FAE parts may be an alternate source for a 328's switches, too.)

As Peter said, the V and G wires are green and yellow wires to the window motors. You'd hook those to 1 and 5 of the new switches. The BN and AN wires (White and Blue (with black stripe)) are your power leads (pin 3 on the new switches), and the N (Black) wires are ground (to pins 2 and 4). If the window moves the wrong way, swap the connectors on pins 1 and 5 (or just turn the switch upside down ).

The "Y" connector Peter suggested would be your best option if you wanted to leave the car's wiring "pristine" factory spec. Two wires on one male connector to two female connectors on each wire would let you adapt the five connector switch to your car's wiring.

You can get quarter inch "quick disconnect" crimp connectors from Radio Shack (with insulating jackets) that should match the OEM 6.3mm blade connectors. (6.3mm = 0.25 in).
(I just bought a 6.3mm connector kit from Europe for my 328, but I suspect the contacts themselves may be quarter inch AMP connectors from the states. It's the multipin plastic shells that have to come from Europe. On your car, they left the individual connectors separate. The Radio Shack connectors should match up pretty well.)

Typically, the doubled up ground would be ground on one wire, with the other supplying ground further along, so you probably don't want to split the wires without providing a jumper between them. (If both ends of the ground chain were grounded, you'd have a "ground loop".)

You could split the wires, run a short wire between them, and then put two connectors on the join at either end of the short wire, converting the car's wiring to providing two ground connections for the later switches without interrupting the ground chain.

But the Y connector would be more like adapting the switch to the car's wiring, so the "factory correct" connector could be refitted in the future (if that ever becomes a factor).

(I don't know if even concours inspections get that detailed. But I'm on an "originality" kick at the moment, since I just had to remove 20 years of after-market "tweaks" from my 328's wiring.)

 

If it's just cosmetic, you might try laying some "white-out" into the groove.
(An engraving tool or small dremmel bit might help cleaning out the groove, if you wanted to repaint the arrows (model paint?).)

 

10 AWG would be safe and stranded.

 

I see what you mean.

 

For raised highlights ... that's masking tape and X-acto knife territory -- and yes, that's tough to get right.

Hmm. What about a hard surface (like a plastic spatula or tongue depressor) covered with wet paint, lightly touched to the raised surface? Just the raised part should pick up the paint. (As you have the replacements, you can experiment. )

On my car, the window circuit is fused at 20A, and uses a 1,5 mm^2 stranded wire for the power feed. I measured my motor, which tops out at just under 12A when hard against the stops. (The motor current spikes when it hits the stops. It only draws 3A and change pushing the window.)

Going to handy online metric translators, a 1,5 metric wire would be 15 or 16 AWG, and 16AWG is rated for 22A.
10AWG might be hard to find, but Radio Shack carries 16AWG stranded speaker wire that should handle the current.
(Not in black, alas. But for short wires, a fat Sharpie pen might cure that. )
(When I tapped my 1,5BN (white/black stripe) window motor wire, I had a 16AWG white wire with a socket connector left over from somewhere. Running a black sharpie down the side made it an instant BN wire.)

Two strands of 16AWG may be a tight fit in a Radio Shack crimp connector. I think the crimp connectors come in two sizes, for different thickness wires. Be sure to get the connectors rated for the fatter (smaller gauge number) wire sizes.