Dino restoration help, lengthy

Dino friends,
I finally got started on the complete restoration (100%) of my "L" series.
Inevitably, had to take hoods and door skins off as they had been
botched rather badly. Had to remake considerable sections of their respective
frames, but so far, no issues. I would welcome photos of the water drains
under the doors and if at all possible, dimensions and quantities.
Around the rear quarter windows, there is considerable leading and as I need
to replace the sheet metal in those areas (rust), any tips will be appreciated.
If inside routing of cables of window winders (manual) were in someones archives,
that would be great too. My doors are steel, but I have ally skins as an option.
Should I? The front hood is also the same, but the rears are steel...
Was there a standard? I am missing the front hood louver sheet metal plates,
if anyone has measurements...
Rough gaps of door and hood openings would be appreciated also.
As this is my first Dino, if there is a bodyman out there
and have some helpful tips please pm me as the bodywork seems extremely accesible
but as usual, there is always someone that has been there and done that. I need all
the experienced comments I can get.
Thank you and regards,
Alberto

 

Alberto - alloy skins for the doors are desirable, but not mandatory. In that it is unlikely that the car will be driven in the rain, rust of the door skin is less likely. HOWEVER, simple washing of the car will lead to pooling of water at the bottom of the door with subsequent rust development. Hence, if you have alloy, and it does not cost a great deal more to install, then I would go with the alloy.

In either event, it will be the juxtaposition of the skin to the frame that leads to areas that capture water and rust (either the frame of the door or the skin, or both). Along the bottom of the door there is a pinch seem where the floor of the door meets the skin. This is the area of concern. Your long-term success in avoiding rust will be directly related to the care that you take in prepping the metal, choice of primer, and careful re-prime after welding. Don't spare the rust-inhibiting primer when putting your door skins onto the door frame.

As an aside, unless you are racing the car and striving for weight reduction, I urge the use of Dynamat or equivalent on the inside of the door skins, roof panel, passenger-side firewall, etc. You will appreciate the reduction in noise later. It is rather heavy stuff, and proper application around the entire car will add approximately 25 kilograms.

Window winder cable routing is easy, and I would not worry about this at this juncture. When you are ready to install the windows (presumed power), come back to F-Chat and either I or Jon G. or Tom C. will provide pictures.

The front deck-lid was always alloy, while the rear deck lids are steel. Normal. The front vent louvers should be available from people like GT Car Parts in Arizona, or Superformance in U.K. They can be fabricated rather easily by a metal workshop. When you get to that point, request pictures and dimensions from someone who has a pair on the bench. They are difficult to photograph when installed on the car.

Good luck. We hope that you ask many questions in the future.

Jim S.

 

Alberto,

All L-Series Dinos should have alloy opening panels(doors, both decklids, and hood). What's your chassis number? The early ones had 206 adjustable suspension and straight eared spinners.

Freeman

 

Alberto,
I have a pair of hood vent sheet metal louvers off right now. I would be happy to make 2 of them for you. It is a simple thing.
Please advise on your schedule and if you would like me to proceed. Otherwise, I can take pictures and send you dimensions.
Good luck and please post some pictures of your progress.
Best regards,

Jon

 

Freeman - I missed the "L" series. Right you are concerning the alloy nature of doors and lids, although Alberto describes rust in his "steel" door skins.

Jim S.

 

I do not believe any L-series had power windows. A good thing- one less item to fail!

 

John- I am missing mine too. I would like two of em...tell me how much you want for em? I 'll send you the $$ and make em when you can. I am in no big huury. Thanks

 

Thank you guys, it is all appreciated, as I am very new in this project.
The rust "was" mostly in the frames of the doors, hoods, etc. All of it has been resolved
with the fabrication of the cancerous parts. I still need an idea of the drain holes,
size and quantity, at the bottom of the doors. Would ahering the skins to the frames with Urethane
adhesive work well? Jim, Why use the Dynamat, and not just "bodyshutz" the way it was factory?
I am not looking for lightness as a few lbs. + or - is not an issue.
I am in the USA right now, and when I get back, I will post some photos.
I really appreciate the help.
Best regards,
Alberto

 

Alberto,

Whats your chassis #. I just finished restoration on my L, happy to answer any questions or take picks if you need them.

Steve
00988

P.S. Robert, my L came with power windows.

 

Alberto - the Dynamat dramatically reduces the noise coming from all of the large surfaces of the car. If you tap the door of a Dino you will hear a drum head. Place Dynamat or equivalent and you hear a thud. Makes driving more comfortable.

As far as holes at the bottom of the door. When you are all finished, pour some oil or water into the door, and then drill a few holes where it puddles. Yes, you should use some kind of primer or undercoating on the inside of the door, but be careful to seal where the frame meets the skin.

Jim S.

 

I believe his concern with an L series Dino body panel is galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals, Aluminum to Steel. Aside from a good Zinc primer on the door frame, I would seal both the inner and outer lip areas with urethane sealer.
I also recommend at least 3 drain holes, front middle and rear, so the water can escape during driving and cornering.
Perhaps the aviation boys have more experience with eliminating galvanic corrosion?

 

My bodyman glued my driver's door skin on, and it has worked out very nicely. The finished product looks every bit as good as factory, and is far better sealed, in my opinion. Fred

 

Steve- With all respect, maybe your car came to YOU with power windows, but I find it difficult to believe the L-series came from the factory that way. Perhaps Tom Shaughnessy can chime in here, as a respected authority on vintage F-cars. Keith, what about yours?

 

Here are a few pics of the batch of hood vent drip louvers I whipped up today. The black ones are OEM. I am trying to get a set to Alberto while he is in the states.
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While I have not seen an "L" series car with power windows nor are they mentioned as an option in any of the related reviews I've collected and reviewed, I can't say for sure that Ferrari wouldn't have built one if you ordered it that way. They were selling cars in their V12 lines with power windows and so switches and motors would have been easy enough to get. If anyone has a price list from 1969 or 1970, it would be interesting to see what options are called out for the Dino.

Remember, the only thing that is certain with Ferrari is that nothing was certain.

...Keith

 

I have seen an early car with power windows.

Asked the owner what was up with that? He replied that he had them retrofitted. I wondered what it looked like behind the door panel, and this might be a good indication of the origins of the power windows in this model. Id the arrangement the Rube Goldberg pulleys and wires that the Dino has, or a simpler, better one? Maybe a photo of the installation would tell us something.

I don't know if any early cars had power windows as an option. We could also consult an L series owner's manual, that might shed some light.

DM

 

The manual and parts books for the "L" do not show, mention or hint at power windows. If an "L" series Dino came with power windows, the factory did it as a special order or it was retrofitted by a very brave and imaginative soul.

 

I have retrofitted one of my Dinos with power windows. Rather easy. No brainer. Simply bought the motors and cables (they came as a unit with cable on them) and they bolted right in. The only difference between the hand crank and power window is the electric motor. Everything else is the same. Cable routing and pulleys are exactly the same.

I purchased a center console with rectangular holes for the switches. As I recall, the wiring harness already had connectors for the switches.

This goes back 30 years or so.

Jim S.

 

Jim, my center console is aluminum covered in vinyl and has no ashtray hole. I do not know if it is factory or a previous
owner went to great lengths to tig weld the three sides out of aluminum...Anyone has seen this before?
The front one, is white plastic (uncovered) and the rear (handbrake) I got from the GT Cars, nos, covered in the original stuff.
Have any L's been upholstered in leather? Is mouse hair then, reasonable to recover the dash instead
of the original vinyl? I don't want to start a polemic on these issues or aggravate anyone, as I have read some rather
fiery opinions about what is right/wrong. Personally, as long as it is within the realms of good taste (please don't ask).
Emblems & wheels, that's anybody's choice, I think. Just to keep it reasonably clear to all out there, I am restoring faithfully
except were it might not be available, or it is not practical as might be the ignition case.

I do not have books or the tools (copies will serve the purpose) or the jack, which for the sake of safety and reason, I will make it out of an Alfa Romeo one, as they are very identical except for the folding arm.
Maybe someone can give me the arm measurements? Come to think of it, I don't even know where it would fit as I have not
thought of looking for the holes...
Fortunately I live in the land of no concourse, and if I ever do, I'll worry about it then.
This car is going to be a great restoration with everyone's help!
Thanks for such great opinions.
Regards, Alberto

 

Robert,

Perhaps you’re right, however one key problem I had when sorting the wiring was that the layout of the terminal/fuse panel of my car was different than listed in the manual, as well as the layout of the console that held the switches. The wiring going to the doors was integrated into the harness as against an add-on or after thought. My original door panels also have the chrome grommet & plug for the crank should the motor fail. My heater fan switch is also located on the left side of the dash, again the wiring is integrated into the harness.

Steve

 

Alberto - I believe that the center console pieces should be fiberglass covered with vinyl or leather. Mine (3 Dinos) were all fiberglass, which I recoved with leather. Sounds like someone fabricated pieces for your car.

Jim S.

 

Sadly, theses pieces sag over time which can make the fit and alignment with the shift gate look a bit off. It makes a lot of sense to fabricate a replacement out of aluminum to prevent future sagging and so not cutting out the ashtray hole would have be simpler to do than adding it.

Nice to see people talking about Dino specifics instead of Dino values once again.

...Keith

 

Yes, Keith, you are correct. All of my center console pieces that hold the ash tray had warped. These warp as a consequence of the original leather, if fitted, shrinking with age. For those with vinyl material, they also warp, I believe, as a consequence of some nubile passenger sitting between two others for a total of three passengers in a two passenger car, likely around 1974, when the thrill of it all exceeded the value of the car.

Jim S.

 

Almost every Dino that I have ever seen has console warping near the shift gate and choke control. I don't think that the factory ever contemplated people worrying about such things when the cars were 35+ years old! Fred

 

Have made some progress in removing the odd panels that were rusty or otherwise botched up
by the previous would be restorer(s). I hope that it is not too boring with so many photos.
A lot of shhetmetal had to be fabricated, as it was beyond repair. Chassis tubeds and pipes
will be replaced. Hope you enjoy the views and that it is not too boring with so many photos.