Dismantle or Remove engine to remove Alternator?

I believe the alternator on the TR is easily removable from the bottom. I know both alternators on a Boxer are removable that way...

 

I understand your frustration, after altenator replacement, one short drive will probably change your mind. What else can you buy for that price which will give you the same driving enjoyment (just as long as something else doesnt break) Hang in there

 

If there's a TR near by me, I can check it out and see what needs to be done to replace it. I know the 512TR comes out the top and it's about a 1/2 job to do it. I know because I did it twice. 2nd time I pumped up the out put of the AMPs on it.

Just saw this picture. I did not have to take off the Plenum on my 512TR to remove the Alternator. Now on this TR engine, you might have to because it's closer to the firewall (plenum) so there may not be enough room to take the alternator out. Taking the top of the plenum off does not look hard at all since it's two pieces. I bet less than a 1/2 hour. Did you try a new battery and then turning on the car and using a voltmeter to see what voltage you are getting to your battery? It should be near 14.4 volts with no load on the battery.
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Alternator comes out the top, remove the left intake plenum. It's not the easiest job but no plasma cutter required.

 

Check out my old thread.

It has a picture of the alternator coming out. I agree with NA, it's not a bad job to do.

http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=172024

 

Slow down Kerry- I can see if you needed a water pump, but a couple hours to replace the alternator is no big deal. Hell the lift you installed in you garage was more time consuming and technically minded than the alternator. Throwing around numbers like 40K are making the rest of us TR brethren ill, so go easy there my friend.

 

So sorry to hear. Good luck!

 

This was one of the first things that my 86 needed. The big problem is the lower alternator pivot bolt hits the rigid coolant tube. So rather than tear apart the cooling system, you can remove the driver side motor mount nuts (big ones, not the little ones) and jack up the driver side (sissors jack and block of wood on the pan bolts) so the pivot bolt clears the tube. There is enough compliance on the pass side mounts that you don't have to loosen them. Of course you will need to remove the grill and panel behind the window and an air cooling shroud on the alternator. You don't have to remove the inlet man. or the engine cover. Use a moving blanket to lay over the fender. One time I was really pissed and the alternator was removed in about an hour. If your car still has the v-belt, I found the contitec brand is slightly narrower than Gates and rides down in the "V" better. And you change the v pulley to a slightly larger larger diameter with a deeper V so there is less "smokage". Good luck!

Jeff Pintler
89 348tb, 86tr
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Dear Ferraristi,

Don't know if the 86 is slightly different in Alt. area but you don't need to go to the motor mounts. When I did mine, (can't remember exactly ) you can pull the pivot bolt out right up to the coolant tube and pull the cradle up with the alt or it was pull the bolt out and turn the bolt head in line with the coolant tube and this gives you about an extra 1/4" to free the cradle. Both the AC and Alt cradles worked with either method. I have Re/Re'd my Alt twice over the years....got it out every time.

BTW, the pivot bolt is a bear to crack loose. Instead of trying to apply force from the tight space from above the car, jack-stand the car, go from underneath and put a long tube on the back of your ratchet.....one easy pull....I mean easy....it comes right off. Same with the AC compressor.

Except for the stupid timing belts, everything is really accessible on the TR. I would honestly say, it's a good design. I just don't know why they didn't make the timing belts accessible by dropping the fuel tanks.


Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

Removed these numorous times, have to remove the front grillwork and bulkhead, aside from that there is just enough room to pass the alternator without removal of the plenum.

Try it before removing that plenum.

Regards, Jim

 

...that's the way I do it. When you have the alt off the cradle but not out of the car, take the back air duct housing off. The alt will then slip up and out.


Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice !

 

Kerry - No authorities reading this thread, but I found that I needed but a millimeter or so clearance to remove the alternator past the intake plenum. Just couldn't get it out. Rather than remove the plenum, I simply loosened all of the 10 mm nuts (if I remember the size correctly) holding the rubber seals (plenum to manifold), and found that I had sufficient flex with the loose studs/nuts to nudge the plenum and allow the alternator to slide out. Made it a great deal easier to put back together.

Jim S.

 

Kerry.....are you serious? You'd let the ol'e girl go for $35k? Just to inform everyone about Kerry's TR.....it's a nero black metallic, with a black/maroon KOENIG interior - black dash....good solid car. In fact, on a good day....I think Kerry's 87 runs better than my 89 car! There can't be more than a dozen cars in that color from 1987! The interior only adds to the rarity! I'd say hang on to the old girl! That car runs good, drives great, no rattles, no squeeks.....very good car.....

After all...I've sold both my TRs...and I can tell you I regret it TERRIBLY! Darn economy!!

If your serious Kerry....drop me a line....