Mondial alternator help | FerrariChat

Mondial alternator help

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by nathandarby67, Mar 15, 2010.

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  1. nathandarby67

    nathandarby67 F1 Veteran
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    I have a few questions regarding the Mondial alternator. My car is a 1981 euro model. The alternator charges fine, but has started making rattling bearing noises. The noise gets better as the car warms up, but never goes completely away. Also at night I can detect a slight pulsing in the brightness of the headlights and interior lights that varies with rpm's. So its time to do something about it, and I have been reading up on what I can using the search function, but still have a few questions.

    1) Are Mondial and 308 alternators the same model? There are tons of threads about 308 alternators, but very few for the Mondial specifically.

    2) I am a habitual "while-I'm-at-it" guy. I would like to eventually upgrade to higher wattage headlights and maybe an upgraded AC system, so the idea of replacing the stock unit with a higher Amp alternator appeals to me. What is the consensus on the best way to do this? Get the stock unit rebuilt with higher output internals? How about using a 328 alternator instead? I believe they are 85 Amp vs. 65 Amp for the 308. Or retrofit a different modern alternator with a separate voltage regulator?
     
  2. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #2 BigTex, Mar 15, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2010
    If it's the same, it's an odd Bosch number.

    I have had great luck with rebuilds, telling them "pay attention to the bearings"....they can answer your question about the upgrades...

    If you can hear the bearings just imagine what the brushes are going thru trying to stay in contact! The new alternators and ours have an internal regulator.

    A Sanden compressor refit actually uses less power....
     
  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Unfortunately, the V-belt drive system on the V8-2V engines for the WP+Alt was/is designed with very little extra margin -- in fact, one could argue that it had a little margin on the carbed V8s, but with the added current load of the CIS fuel pump on the injected 2V V8s, it has a negative margin ;). If you go up significantly, you might need to go to the later 308QV/328 V-belt arrangement too -- just a thought...
     
  4. nathandarby67

    nathandarby67 F1 Veteran
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    #4 nathandarby67, Mar 15, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2010
    Thanks - I did not realize the belt was different on later cars. So I guess that means I would have to find QV water pump, alternator, and drive pulleys as well....I imagine that would be difficult and/or pricey? I have seen a lot of posts where folks say "just be sure not to damage the alternator pulley...it is the only Ferrari-specific ($$$) part!".
     
  5. birddog

    birddog Formula Junior

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    The owner of a Mondial T had his alternator quit on him during the past Summer's FCA National Meet Rally. His repair shop in Kenosha, WI (run by a former Lake Forest Sports Car mechanic) said the Ferrari part was identical to an AC Delco part, and replaced it with an AC Delco unit. I've seen the car a few times since and it's still running fine. Sorry I don't have any more info than that, but maybe you could do some checking on the shop and give them a call. Good luck.
     
  6. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #6 Steve Magnusson, Mar 15, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2010
    I'd have to agree it might not be an easy project -- it takes another idler pulley for the (new and shorter) WP belt and the 1-4 timing belt cover that has the mounting arrangement for that idler pulley plus the crankshaft pulley with the additional belt groove. I thought I had a copy of the service bulletin describing the change/parts needed, but I can't seem to find it now. Here's how the (two) v-belts on your car (the injected-2V and early 4V) are configured:
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    And here's the updated three v-belt design used on the later 308QV/328:
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  7. nathandarby67

    nathandarby67 F1 Veteran
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    #7 nathandarby67, Mar 15, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2010
    Thanks for the diagrams! Pictures being worth 1000 words and all....

    Pretty much sums up that it would be quite an in-depth undertaking, especially as far as parts hunting goes. Looking at the diagrams though, how about fabricating a double belt drive to the alternator by simply welding a second outer pulley to the existing crankshaft drive and alternator pulleys on the existing early model configuration. You would have the existing common belt to drive the WP and alternator and a new second belt just between the drive pulley and alternator.

    Fabrication fantasies aside, is it for sure that the Mondial and 308 alternators are interchangeable? If I just end up buying a new unit from Autozone or wherever I want to make sure I get the correct one. I have seen in other threads that the 308 unit is the same as from a Fiat 124 and possibly a Spider.
     
  8. CliffBeer

    CliffBeer Formula 3

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    Nathan, my reco would be to stick with the stock alternator and configuration, but make sure your fuse block is up to snuff. With a good fuse block you can upgrade the headlights to a moderately higher output (you might need another set of relays and heavier gauge wiring to do this properly).

    Take the alternator off and find the bosch # on it. You'll probably find that it was used on fiats or alfas of the same vintage and is half (or less) the price through those vendors rather than f-car parts vendors.

    Good luck!
     
  9. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #9 Steve Magnusson, Mar 15, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2010
    The euro Mondial8 and euro 308i-2V SPCs show the same Bosch 65A alternator is used on those two, but the US Mondial8 SPC shows a Bosch 80A alternator (that I think has been superceded up to a later 308QV/328 85A alternator) -- unfortunately, I don't have access to the US 308i-2V SPC for comparison. Here's the information flow:

    1. I do have a copy of the US Mondial8 SPC that shows the F alternator PN = 117967

    2. the info at www.allferrariparts.com shows that this is a Bosch 80A alternator = Bosch 0 120 469 537

    3. the info at www.RicambiAmerica and www.allferrariparts.com shows that 117967 has been superceded by 121761, and

    4. the info at www.allferrariparts.com shows that this is a Bosch 85A alternator = 0 120 469 641

    Good Luck! (and please do post any Bosch PN information that you find on your existing alternator)
     
  10. CliffBeer

    CliffBeer Formula 3

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    Steve, you just amaze me. Wonderful stuff.
     
  11. nathandarby67

    nathandarby67 F1 Veteran
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    #11 nathandarby67, Mar 22, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    So I finally got around to taking the alternator off tonight, and of course the usual Insurmountable Roadblock comes up, just as it always does during most all simple mechanical procedures.

    The problem is I can not get the alternator mounting bolt out. It is mounted from the back side of the alternator, and I can not push it all the way out because it hits the oil dipstick tube dead-on.

    My immediate question is: Is the dipstick tube easily removable? It seems like I can feel a nut around the bottom of it where it meets the crankcase. I just want to make sure I don't break something here if I attempt to take it off, or need some back-ordered-til-October gasket or o-ring to re-install it. I suppose another option would be to just cut the bolt in half.

    The bolt in question is arrowed in the picture. In the picture it seems the head of the bolt is facing out, so this is backwards from my car. (Disclaimer: not my engine in the picture, mine is much dirtier!)
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  12. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    #12 Verell, Mar 22, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Take a look at the pictures of the 4V alternator brackets & see if your bracket matches. If so, then you can just unbolt the bracket from the 3 studs on front of the engine & avoid pulling the dipstick.

    If you've got the 2V bracket, then you gotta pull the dipstick. It's a PITA, but doable. There's a large 27mm(1-1/16") nut (actually it's like a pipe union) that has to be unscrewed from the double male ended fitting that's screwed into the block. Sometimes the male-male fitting wants to unscrew instead & a wrench has to go on the hex in the middle of it.

    There isn't a lot of room to swing a wrench in there, what's typically used is the open end of either a 1-1/16" open end or combination wrench cut in half leaving about a 4" handle.
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  13. nathandarby67

    nathandarby67 F1 Veteran
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    #13 nathandarby67, Mar 22, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2010
    Great info, many thanks! It is a 2V car....1981.

    Taking the tube off seems almost to be more trouble than its worth. I am leaning towards just cutting the bolt in half. Before I do though, can anyone confirm that this isn't some weird length Ferrari-specific magical bolt that will be impossible to properly replace?
     
  14. nathandarby67

    nathandarby67 F1 Veteran
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    #14 nathandarby67, Mar 24, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I cut the &*%#$^@ bolt. The dipstick tube could not be removed, despite much colorful language, because the bottom male-male fitting wanted to unscrew from the block instead of the fitting that attaches the dipstick tube (just like Verell said it would!). It is impossible to fit any sort of wrench or other device around the lower male-male fitting to hold it in place while the alternator is in place. It is recessed too deeply among the motor mount and various edges of the engine casting itself.

    Also, for future reference, if you cut off the last inch or so of the threaded end of the bolt where it pokes through outer side of the alternator, the bolt will still be approximately 0.0001 inch too long to slide out the back and free the alternator. You have to cut the bolt from underneath on the back side of the alternator. This is not a big area to work in and most tools won't fit. I tried various things and eventually used a dremel cut off wheel on a flexible extension.

    So now all I have to do is find a match for the alternator that was in my car and find a new bolt. Below are pictures of the alternator. It is a 65A unit. My immediate question is if I order one of the 80A or 85A alternators listed above in Steve's post, will it fit? Is the only difference the internals or are the casing and mounting points different?
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  15. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    I'd just rebuild that one, take it down to the local shop, and see........

    Mine was redone for about $125...I used to have a guy that would do it for $75.

    Sorry about the bolt......
     
  16. nathandarby67

    nathandarby67 F1 Veteran
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    What kind of turnaround time do you usually have on your rebuilds? There is a rally here on Saturday I want to make, that's why I was leaning towards trying to find somewhere with one in stock. From looking at diagrams and pictures, I believe mine will swap with the 308 alternator which swaps with a Fiat Spider. The Autozone website has a picture of the one they stock for the Fiat and it looks the same to me. I will hang on to my original one and probably get it rebuilt to a higher Amp rating when I drop the engine at the next major service.
     
  17. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #17 Steve Magnusson, Mar 24, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2010
    Thanks for posting the alternator information. That Bosch PN 0120489823 shows up as F PN 110073 in the www.allferrariparts.com database -- so that does confirm that euro Mondial8 do use the same 65A 308 alternator (and maybe the Fiat Spider one will work for you). I've also noted that in the v-belt figure in the euro Mondial8 OM (and 308 OM) shows the same cooling fan as yours, while the US Mondial 8 OM shows the "solid face" cooling fan like in those prior 308QV/328 v-belt figures.

    I'm with BT -- unless you've added a ton of electrical stuff, the 65A rating is probably A-OK, and, even if you did want a higher current rating, you could probably do it for less $ by upgrading/rebuilding your old one.
     
  18. nathandarby67

    nathandarby67 F1 Veteran
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    #18 nathandarby67, Mar 26, 2010
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2010
    Any tips on getting the pulley off? I tried hitting it with an impact wrench with the fan/pulley restrained, but turning the nut just spins the shaft inside of the pulley. So the nut/shaft is rotating as a unit inside the pulley/fan. I have it soaking in PB blaster for the moment.....
     
  19. nathandarby67

    nathandarby67 F1 Veteran
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    This was strange. For some reason the nut was stripped on the shaft of the alternator. So the shaft was not spinning when I was turning the nut, just the nut itself. (Yes I was turning it the correct direction!) After a few turns it started spinning freely in place and I finally was able to pull it off. Maybe this was what was causing my noise all along? The pulley came off after persistent light-medium tapping with a wooden dowel on the pulley, and then tapping down on the shaft while holding the pulley. (would be much easier with my gear puller I loaned to a buddy!) That sucker was really on there good.

    Anyway, about to grab a fresh beer and head back out to the garage. Got to have this all back together and running by 8:00 AM (hopefully with several hours of sleep somewhere in there) so I can make the rally by 9:30!! Need to change the oil, too. Nothing like the pressure of an event looming in less that 12 hours to get the wrenches a-spinnin'!
     

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