How do you use this thing?

Ferrari tool 95845027 is loaned by the fine guys at Ricambi America to do a mod to early 4V V8 heads. (It is stamped AS-105794-SAT) I've searched all over for some TSB or write-up without finding anything. How do you use this thing?
http://www.ricambiamerica.com/product_info.php?products_id=262604
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That thread is pretty incomplete as far as having anything approaching instructions, but the pictures tell a story and got me going. One thing the pictures say is that an extra long drill bit would be helpful. Sure enough, I made a little divot in my head before I ran out of length on a standard drill bit. McMaster is sending two 6" long #20 bits and I'll give it another go after the man in brown stops by.

 

OK, so this is how I used it. I found that the best fit for the jig's holes is a #20 drill bit and I needed an extra long one. I ordered two of part number 3161A32 High-Speed-Steel Short-Flute Extended Reach Drill Bit, Wire Gauge Size 20, 6" Overall LG, 1.88" Drill Depth from McMaster.com.

I started with the D side (Da side closest to the back of the car, also the Distributor side if you only have one distributor). There are two drill holes and this side uses the hole closest to the DX marked on the tool. The hole that is drilled in the head here is a brand new hole, it is not enlarging the existing hole. This new hole is approximately at the bottom of the well that the seal carrier rides in.

This process will make metal chips and some of them will be inside the engine, a bad thing. I put a gob of grease or assembly lube on the back side of the where the hole would be to contain whatever shavings come out the hole. I have a picture below with a pipe cleaner going through the new hole so you don't have to guess as much as I did. Gob some light weight grease here right above the head stud nut and you won't have to go searching for swarf all over the inside of the heads.
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Install the cam cap and slide the tool into it and then rotate so the pin rests on the head surface back edge and the writing is up. I used a C-clamp to lightly hold the jig in place. It doesn't really want to move much, but why give it the opportunity? I greased the drill shank for the first hole, but I don't think that is necessary. I used my favorite aluminum cutting fluid on the drill bit and drilled the hole.
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more...
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So this is before: The oil drain hole is at about 4 o'clock so a pool of oil is always above the bottom of the oil seal line desperately trying to get out of the engine, often with much success.
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And this is after: a hole at the 6 o'clock position so that the oil level stays below the oil seal, giving it an opportunity to drain back into the engine. (There is a pipe cleaner in the hole and my engine stand is tilted a bit, but trust me, it is at the bottom now.)
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The last part on this side is just cleaning up the mess. It is only necessary to get the work area clean enough that you can sleep at night. I think mine is pretty clean. I got the grease out with my fingers and paper towels and wiped the chips away carefully to keep everything out. I cleaned out the hole with the drill bit by hand and then with a pipe cleaner (there's one advantage to being married to a third-grade teacher) and when I was sure it was clean I rinsed with WD-40 just to move stuff around and maybe wash it out the drain holes onto the floor.

The other side is the S side (the side with the Starter) and it is a little easier. Mostly it is the same. The pin still rests towards the back of the car so the writing is still up. Use the SX hole which has a completely different trajectory than the D side. And on this side you aren't drilling a new hole, you are enlarging the existing hole. And the depth is shorter, it goes pretty quickly. Otherwise it is the same drill (get it?!?).
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(What looks like metal junk in the second picture is actually WD-40 foam. There wasn't that much stuff and it was chips not fine dust.)
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...and that's the end of the drilling.

But Andyww brings up Notice 103 and it is a good things he did. I really don't think I would have caught this on my own. Only one of my holes were drilled so that the seal carrier blocked it and it was on an intake cam, not an exhaust cam as the diagram shows. The other holes are all drilled high enough that the carrier doesn't block them, but the rear intake cam oil hole is low enough that it is more than half obscured when the carrier is in place and with such a small hole there really isn't much passage left at all.

Thanks for the Notice!

This is the Sinistro side exhaust. The carrier does not block the hole at all.
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Note how the hole on my rear intake cam is drilled on the machined vertical face. The seal carrier rides right against this flat surface.
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When the seal carrier is inserted it almost completely seals this hole off.
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I filed a bit of a reveal for that hole in one of the carriers. I actually filed it a bit more since I took the picture to be a bit more like the Notice 103 drawing above. I made a groove that goes out the back side of the seal to let it drain.
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I also engraved a small line on the outside of the carrier at the gasket joint to indicate its proper position when installed. Hopefully I can see it when everything is being installed to make sure my divot lines up with the hole.
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That's the truth.

Good Luck!