#08450 Barn find!

Jon,

The parts look amazing! Looking forward to seeing the body go through the next steps!!

Freeman

 

beautiful shocks, what brand are they?
ed

 

INCREDIBLE !!!! SIMPLY INCREDIBLE !!!!

I just now looked through this entire thread from start to end, and I am mesmerized !

I do realize that you probably had to take all these photos anyway to document the process for the owner and to authenticate the value / extent of the restoration -------- but, thank you so much for taking the time to post them here as well so that we could all see and enjoy, too

 

All the inner fiberglass parts finished. The parts were prepped and any cracks and holes were repaired. Then a new coat of resin was brushed on to tie and seal everything together. After that cured a nice fresh coat of black acrylic enamel is applied. Then after that drys a new coat of wurth black undercoat get sprayed in the inner well wells.
Done better! "Sorry I missed ya today Jon" You could of picked up these finished parts.. Better stored at your shop then mine.

Steve

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Jon
It looks like everything is really coming together! I am curious if you have any tips on installing the control cables to the heater and vent slides after the dash is in? I found it really hard to try to attach them. The combination of having to jam your head upside down and trying to get the narrow cables to set into the clips and then tighten the set screws....well I found it nearly impossible. All hints are appreciated! Thanks

 

Just curious is the toggle button on the right control the reproduction from Superformance?

 

I wish I would have talked to you before I put the dash in. Oh well, another learning experience! Thanks

 

What leather did you use?

 

Just to post some progress on the sheet metal work. The new front nose turned out great. Now to cut the old and original rusted and damaged nose out ...pre-fit then Tig it in. I will try to post as much as possible for you to follow. Lately, because of my work load, I just want to come home to be with my family for a little bit then get to bed and try to catch up on some well deserved sleep. So, I haven't been posting too much.

I did hire a new metal fabricator to help move my project forward. His name is Attka Vecsernyes. I will share more about his past career and experience later. He is Hungarian and old school taught... a magician when it comes to sheet metal.

Steve
Steve Kouracos | Fine Craftsmanship In Automotive Restoration & Resurfacing
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Here are a few more pics of progress today. Attila got a tighter fit on the front nose. Got the front grille in with the first fit and some sheet metal parts installed inside. Another full day and now we're ready to Tig the seam up and metal finish. Can't wait to finish this nose up so we can move to the rockers and get them replaced as needed.

Thanks for watching our thread and for your support. Documentation and good craftsmenship equals good value. Enjoy.

Peace,

Steve
Steve Kouracos | Fine Craftsmanship In Automotive Restoration & Resurfacing
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As a dino owner and civil engineer I need to inform you that you are courting real danger in the way you have stacked the cinder blocks (CMU's). They are structurally designed to hold weight with the holes running vertically; you have them horizontally. It could easily happen that one piece of the cement blocks wall that is directly under the dino frame (or the bottom block which has the most weight on it) cracks/fails and causes a cascading failure of the other blocks. People have been hurt where they have used these blocks this way to hold up cars while they work under them; instead of buying a set of jack stands for $20. Just don't want to see your folks and a nice dino on the floor in a pile of cement shards!

 

While the issue of the horizontal vs. vertical structural strength of the blocks is as you describe, he's not building a house or lifting a fully loaded car. The car without all of its guts weighs maybe 600 pounds (just a guess) divided by 4 means that each support is holding 150 pounds, call it 200 lbs. max. Hardly enough to cause cascading failure of the blocks, otherwise an average man's weight standing on the blocks while on their side would cause them to fail. It turns out that Steve has glued them together so they won't shift, which was my concern when I saw the pictures (I went today to look at my Miura that he's painting) so the stacks aren't shifting around. Jack stands when fully extended are very unstable, so I don't think I would suggest using that. I suppose the best thing would be to use railroad ties locked together with spikes or threaded rods. But if it's worked in the past, why mess with it?

 

Thank you very much for your concern. Going back on the rotisserie on Monday.

Steve

 

Thanks again for checking it out today Alberto. Good suggestion about the RR ties.

Steve

 

Stuartlarman, Thank you for explaining the structural design of a cinder block. I went down to the shop after church today, and changed the block configuration. Safety is first. I'm planning to make some custom Jack stands or a rolling cart that will give me the height I need and holds the car stable as well as these blocks do. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.

Peace