Getting Closer... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well .... if nobody else is going to post it, then I will: .... and looking good ! Thanks for sharing, Jim - please keep the photos coming !!
Is there any chance that you will have left over bits that can be shaped into cuff links or maybe belly/nipple rings to sell off and help finance the restoration? ; ) Thanks for sharing the process. The work is stunning. Must take extreme deligence not to melt that thin metal. regards ken
I love the Clecos in the last picture, the Coupe looks like a porcupine. I had a chance to break out my tin of Clecos recently, but not for anything as glamorous as your project. I had a client want me to replace his Z3 trunkfloor with one from an M Rdstr so he'd be able to fit dual exhausts. Whole project: http://www.rfdm.com/gallery/album73 I love watching your projects take shape, as I like to "read" the technical aspects of the process in your pictures. Your guy(s) is/are doing a great job (any job openings...?). Image Unavailable, Please Login
Amen. Truly talented people doing their best on a good quality canvas. I know how hard it is to do this stuff, because I am currently fabricating from scratch a small part of the right front corner (that had accident damage) of my Alfa GTV that I am restoring and getting a 3 dimensional metal object exactly right in all directions is causing more grey hairs. I got it close, but version 2 might be required ... but I will get there eventually. Pete
Just got the book "Pipes!" and had a quick look at the pages. On page 196 are a couple of pics from Exide 500 km:s in the 1968/9 Springbok Series, of Davids P3/4 (wich I assume must be #0854) burning...and according to the pics there´s nearly nothing left of the car. Now...that is news to me!!! ??? Staffan
Hi No this happened and is old news. At the time it was in it's cut down DP fiber glassed configuration. The good news is that while the fiberglass body did burn into oblivion as David wrote in his book the original chassis/engine/gearbox survived and David returned the car to UK and rebuilt her and had her racing by spring. The original alloy body, off the car for much of Davids ownership, survived unscathed and that's what we're now refitting. Best
One of the problems with the original construction of these cars is that they were never intended to last for 40+ years. Dissimilar metals were put together without any barriers and caused corrosions over the years. We've carefully taken everything apart, will remove the corrosion, and put it back together with a barrier (paint) to give it another 40 + years. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Oxidation...,rubber/rubberised paint helps,or "iirc" sacrificial pieces i.e copper washers help too,something akin to those (zinc?) ingots attached to steel ship hulls..
Jim, Great thread, fantastic photos and thanks so much for sharing all of this with us. While I am sure you are doing everything to make this car as "right" as possible, some thought as to additional corrosion protection is probably warranted... You obviously believe in driving your cars, and that is really cool in my mind. But after all the work that your team is putting into this effort I would hate to see the car deteriorate over time just from getting wet if you take it on the Targa..... If it were sitting in a museum that isn't an issue, but for real cars it is. Were the car mine I would likely use particular aircraft coatings for protection of dissimilar metals. While they come under the headings of "paint" they provide much more protection that common automotive paints. Also with the rivets, you might look into finding rivets expressly coated for the job of attaching aluminum and steel. One particular coating is Dacromet, and you could have whatever rivets you are using coated with it and it would really help prevent loosening of rivets over time due to corrosion. Everybody has a budget, but to this engineer and Ferrari enthusiast, your car is priceless, spending a bit more time and money for corrosion protection in the areas where it cannot be seen is probably going to keep your car nicer for a longer period of time. To see corrosion peeking out from under rivet heads after 5 years is probably going to drive you nuts.... Keep the great pics coming...
Sometimes even after opening everything up there are somethings that can't be saved. We're being as careful as we can but some tumors have to be removed... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login