0W-40

Ray - I have serviced many Ferraris, mostly Dinos and 308s. Also ALFAs, Porsches, FIATs and other exotics. I've experimented with just about every brand of oil in MY OWN CARS, and I've come to a conclusion:

KENDALL 20W50 GT-1.

It is absolutely the best all-around oil I have ever used.
When I switched to it in my GTC, it cut the consumption IN HALF! Many of my customers were similarly pleased - never a complaint.
I do not use, nor will I ever use synthetics in my cars - not that there is anything wrong with them but I have established what works well for me and protects the engines.
1967 330 GTC - ~165,000 miles
1967 ALFA GTV - 70,000+
1974 FIAT 124 Spider - 140,000
These cars get Kendall exclusively.
I have a friend/customer in Rochester, NY with two Dinos - I have serviced his cars for over 15 years and have used only that oil.
(by the way, I've heard too many stories similar to yours regarding synthetics in older cars)
Bob Z.

 

Ray - I drive my GTC in cold weather with the 20W50. The only time it stays off the road is when there is salt.

Bob

 

No Castrol? ;(

 

Hi, Dale. Yes, I tried Castrol, along with Pennzoil, Valvoline, Mobil, Wolfs Head, Quaker State and a few others. They all worked well as I had very good oil pressure and never a failure but they all seemed to consume rather rapidly. The Kendall, for some reason, just lasts longer.
When I mentioned the low consumption to the (Kendall) distributor he stated that quite a few of his customers reported similar results.
Keep in mind that the advantage goes to the older cars that consume too much oil - when driving a new car, there is really no advantage.

Hope this helps.
Bob Z.

 

We also swear by Kendall GT-1 20W/50 in all of the older cars. I would never run a modern synthetic oil in a worn vintage motor, it will leak more and consume oil at a more rapid rate.

Brian Brown
Patrick Ottis Co.

 

Oh yeah, lower your oil pressure, that's a great idea.

It reminds me of one of our customers who has a Maserati 300S (0nly worth a few million dollars). He was driving on a tour and was worried about the oil temperature being too cold. Someone had the great idea of draining out some of the engine oil so that it would come up to temperature more quickly, as the dry sump tank holds 16 or so quarts. Only problem is they drained out too much, and then ignored the oil pressure gauge dropping to zero a few times. The motor blew up so hard that it blew the generator out through the side of the car into a nearby field.

You have a really cool vintage Ferrari that deserves to be driven as such, please do not destroy it.

Brian

 

Is Kendall oil available in the UK. if so does any know where or who stocks it?

Thanks,
Phil

 

I would think having good oil pressure is more important that having to top it up due to a few leaks!

 

Jeff - my thoughts EXACTLY. Messing with the pressure relief valve is, in my opinion, asking for trouble. As far as I'm concerned, any quality oil as I've mentioned above is the ONLY thing that should go in any 6 or 12C Ferrari. They're all good - the Kendall just lasts longer - that's all.
When I get another 308, it will LIVE on Kendall.

Many customers asked me about what oil additives they should use - my response was allways a resounding "NONE". These modern oils are so well formulated that all the (necessary) additives are already there.

Bob Z.

 

NEVER USE SYN IN A VINTAGE MOTOR.
P3/4 40w Vavoline Racing
MK-IV 40w Vavoline Racing
166s 40w Vavoline Racing
Lola Sm Block chevy REBUILT for SYN. Moble One 15w 50
Duesey 50w Valvoline Racing
Maser 10w 40 synth agip
Turbo P Cananne 0w 40 Mobile One

 

Just to clarify, are you running straight 40w Valvoline Racing or 10-40? I've always run 20-50 Valvoline Racing in my 365GT. I just had the engine rebuilt and I want to start out with the best choice.

 

In the racecars straight 40w. Remember these live in heated garages and are never left out in the cold. For your use I think 20w-50 would be fine. I just wouldn't use synth. in a Vintage Motor. The Lola motor as it now is rebuilt is modern.

 

...and pulls off the stoplights pretty strong!!!!!!!

 

Wrong?

I think you should put Syn. in your gear box as well that way you can destroy both sooner and can have them rebuilt at the same time.

 

Jim,

I like your last response. Raywong - synthetic oil guinea pig.

Ray,

You need synthetic oil in engines with tight tolerances (modern engines). Older engines are designed with looser tolerances at many points; therefore the properties of non-synthetic oil are preferable.

It's your car and your choice. Good Luck.

Art S.

 

Ray, my Dino Brother.

You have some good advice here. These guys speak the truth,

Napolis and Bob Zambella really know thier stuff, and the thought of putting a synthetic into an old engine is very scary. Gearbox, too.

My mechanic cringed when I suggested synthetics when I first bought the Dino, and we run NO SYNTHETICS anywhere in my old cars.

Dump it out, put 20w-50 in and be done with it. I'm using Castrol GTX at the moment, on the recommendation of my Ferrari mechanic. That will perhaps solve your problem and is certainly an easier test than messing with the oil pressure regulator.

Good luck with her. did you download the manual I posted?

Dave

 

Synthetic oils are fine for antique, vintage, classic or modern cars of any type. They have superior lubercating and heat transfer abilities than dino oils and work with any engine, period. Modern synthetic do not cause more oil leaks either. Where have you guys been for the last decade or so? Additives in synthetic oils now are better at preventing leaks than dino oils. The anti-Mobile1 propaganda of the 1970s is over. Just what do you think is so different about a vintage engine that makes them incapatable with synthetic oils? Friction and heatare the same whether it is in a Model T engine or a F430 and sythetic oils are better at reducing both. I even use Mobile1 in my golf cart and lawn mower.

 

all these posts and not a single reference to Redline brand oil? or am I just a putz for paying a lot more $$ for my 20W50?