Dino Saga 060521___Car Port

Dino Saga 060521___Car Port

Lots of neighbors have asked about my Car Port. Where to buy? How much? Strong enough? Here are a few more details for those who live in warmer climates. Even if the Ferrari does not live there, maybe the Dune Buggy could use a roof during the rain.

All the structural tubing is 1.3” OD galvanized steel tubing. Typically used for the top rail in chain link fences. It comes in 20 ft lengths and usually has a swaged end that can slip into another section of tubing. The ribs that support the Poly cover are ½” electrical conduit (EMT). This is 0.7” OD galvanized steel tubing.

The present cover is the second iteration of the basic design. The first lasted two years until a wind storm collapsed the peak. Rafter tubing failed in compression so peak basically inverted from a humongous downdraft. Cover quickly shredded from flapping. No damage to the cars and I learned a lesson. That frame had an 8” rise at the peak and straight ribs. Straight ribs had allowed cover to flap which was an annoyance. Repair was straightforward and has performed just fine for the last 12 years.

All I did was raise the peak to 1 ft above the perimeter and curve the ribs to create an airfoil shape. Looks better and no flapping anywhere. The Silver poly cover is held on with large head 6-32 x ½” self drilling screws spaced every 2 ft or so. Screws are on inside of tubes so there is a 270 degree wrap of cover. I don’t use the grommets. Catch the perimeter rope on two sides. Wrap the other 2 sides over 1/8” steel wire and hook wire over screws. Trim excess after all is tight.

The four legs are planted firmly so no guy wires or braces are needed. The top does move laterally in the wind, 1-2” is about all and no problem. Note that the rafter welds and upright welds are offset from the corner welds. I am not that good a welder and all I had was a grinder and a drill motor with a 1 1/8” hole saw. Needed easy fitting and room to work. Certified aircraft welders with fancy cutters could make all welds in corners.

Only problem to date is fool ladies not looking where they are going when backing up from the parking space next to the car port. They start turning before they clear the rear post and hook the post with their bumper. First lady only moved the tube about 3” and I could straighten it. Second one did not stop until her fender was bent and tube had moved a foot. Welds held but I had to replace the lower part of the post. I cut the old tube just above asphalt and straightened the tube ID as much as possible. Drove the swaged end of a new tube into the hole and tack welded it to the remains of the old tube. Straightened the upper part and cut new and old tubes to make a butt joint at a convenient height. Welded tubes and all was like new. Then got a piece of 3” dia fence post and planted it a foot in front of corner post. No problems since but I have noticed a few scrape marks on the fat post.

Drawing is to pretty much to scale.

John
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I am not sure what the point is of posting this thread several times but it is getting old.