#108860... What happens when you get a "bargain" 355.

So it sounds like a nightmare, and if I were not me, perhaps it would be. Personally I love wrenching on a car, couldn't afford a metric ton of Ferrari, but always wanted one. So I took the plunge not knowing what to look for... and will probably pay for it... eventually.

Seems like the motor is burning a bit of oil, the cats were fragged, passenger header was completely burned through, and now it sounds like a gypsy is playing tamborine over my clutch/flywheel (any guesses what that will be, lol).

So you're thinking of getting a used 355, I say do it... BUT make sure you get a really good PPI as there is no such thing as a free lunch with the 355. My 355 was clearly poorly maintained, mind you, I got it cheap but in retrospect would have been dollars ahead spending $30k more upfront on a well documented example. I do all my own work, so that's the good news. I know what I can't do and whom to ship it to when doing the critical machine work, so I still feel good about my purchase.

In the end, I am glad I got this "driver", it hasn't been a well maintained example and I will feel no guilt in making it run well enough to suit my tastes. I feel like this poor car, despite not having deep pockets myself, was fortunate enough to get a second lease on life.

 

It actually does run well, I think you would be surprised. If we are just talking about it making power, revving freely, and idling well.

It idles at 1000 rpm, as smoothly as I would expect it to idle. I stand on the throttle and north of 5,000 it starts to come alive, I blip the throttle and RPM rise is sharp and fast.

It does all these things reasonably well, however, it also smokes when above 6,000-6,500 RPM, oil smoke. I don't like it, it's pretty noticible in the rear view mirror. I think it's coming from (surprise) the passenger side bank. What has likely happened is that a valve or two has gotten damaged in the great header meltdown.

I will post compression numbers as soon as I do them, unfortunately I am also in the midst of defending a disseration, so I might not get to it before I leave for Bethesda to defend my Ph.D., which is more important than my Ferrari. As far as pictures... I am about 50 lbs heavier in these pictures than I am now, stress will do that to you.

As far as a Ferrari Mechanic... No such thing on Guam. Not even remotely close, I am here without a net to catch me when I fall.
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So what have I done?

I replaced the headers, exhaust, and there are no more cats. The SDECU's are gone and in it's place is a custom gauge that feeds the ECU the needed voltages. The ECU has been programmed to ignore the exhaust bypass valve code. Air injection system is gone. Exhaust bypass is an electric set of free flow dumps, when not just open, the exhaust flows through a stainless steel muffler.

The exhaust actually is much better than the factory craptastic system Ferrari put in place. I understand why they did what they did, but it's unreliable. My setup flat won't break and saves a ton of weight. If I wanted to actuate the valves like the factory setup at 4,000 RPM, I could. I prefer the ability to determine whether the exhaust will or will not be open... simple as pushing a button now.

Mark

 

Thanks!!!

See what I mean... 50 lbs is a lot!
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Would you prefer crow instead of turkey?


Sorry there is no real video, but does this Ferrari 355 sound like it does not run all that well to you?

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfJZRpvpdgY[/ame]

I do apologize about the video, I just used my cell phone to record this on the way home from work.

 

I think that's the cell phone, it's got plenty of low oomph sound... I will try to get a better recording. Now, while I have heard other F355's and mine sounds similar, the custom exhaust does play a role and perhaps when compared to the name brand exhausts, maybe mine sounds different. I didn't think so, but perhaps.

What you don't hear is it missing on a cylinder or it not accelerating smoothly and quickly. I agree that the heads, more than likely, will need a valve job given the history and that there is some damage to the motor as a result of the other neglect. Does it run perfect, I doubt it. If running perfect is what you mean by "it cannot run well", then you are correct. My definition is: I could drive it as is everyday for a week and count on it not to strand me. The car accelerates smoothly, idles reliably, generally has > 90% of the power intended, and nothing is leaking. <- Runs well.

Can it run better, I am betting that it can... I am betting on it running much better. I imagine that I should figure out what it's pulling HP wise, but there is no dyno on Guam. I could use a standing 1/4 mile, at least that would give me an idea of how much power I am making or not making.

Done.

 

Hey, I will be the first to admit if I am wrong and if it runs that much better when I've gotten it all sorted out, I'll eat a big old plate of crow. However, if it is hugely down on power, I will be surprised. Factory specs puts it at a high 12 second/low 13 second 1/4 mile performing car. Which is about how fast it currently feels.

Believe it or not, I hope you two are right, and that the car is under performing massively, all that means is that any repairs and re-work will only be more worthwhile. You both have a good deal of experience with these cars, it is more likely that I am wrong than the two of you to be wrong. We will see what shakes out... either way, at the end of the day, I still own a beautiful Ferrari that I get to drive and work on.

To me, the most important part of the experience is the enjoyment I get from driving and working on it. I know many would not want to be bothered with the getting dirty part, but there is a certain amount of satisfaction I get from actually doing the work myself.

 

I might add, it's clear that the heads need to come off now. I have verified that oil is only coming from the right bank, but that tells me something with the valve/valve guides/valve seal in there is hurt for sure.

So after I get back from the states in January and take my licensure test in February, the car will be going back into the ICU (my garage) to get the heads taken off the motor. I just have not decided who I will have do the head work yet...

I am open to suggestions. I want to do it once, do it right, and I know that doesn't mean cheap. I was thinking there are a few good choices.

 

Thanks!!! I know you guys are pulling for me to do this old car some justice. Even if she is wheezing and coughing now.

Mark