16M purchase advice

Where are you?

 

Phone might be tricky but PM me if you are happy to converse over email.
As always a PPI is a must.

 

About the PPI I am curious how open would a ferrari dealership be if you wanted to pick up a 250k Car and bring it to another garage to have them pull it apart to check it out?

Everyone on here talks about PPI being a must but I always wondered how open dealers would be to this idea on these type of car/values?

Lastly if a car is coming from a Ferrari dealer and has low miles, zero accidents, and full service report how import could a PPI really be on a mint fully checked out ferrari with 2000 to 3500 miles, seems a be over the top at this point if the car checks out, what is everyone else s feelings ?

 

These is all "Ferrari Buying 101" questions. Use search.

 

Thanks tips, but if you read slow down and read my reply you will notice I asked a valid question that can't be answered via Ferrari buying 101, I am asking how do other people pull this off, When I bought my 16m I certainly had no chance to take the car from the dealer selling it and bring to a dealer of my choice and pull the car apart for a series of tests, so that is why I asked anyone to chime in how they pull this off on these type of cars/prices.

Again thanks for the suggestion on Ferrari buying 101 I will be sure to check it out but in the mean time can anyone share any personal experiences on the above and help the OP hopefully add a 16m to his stable.

 

If buying from an F-dealer, I'm not sure the PPI is required. Didn't they say they serviced/checked the car over before putting it up for sale? A Ferrari dealer has reputation, they have little interest in pulling one over on you. Is it certified pre-owned? Other than a few cities that have a couple of reputable independents, who is going to know more about the car than the Ferrari Dealership?

 

I bought my 430 from a Ferrari dealer as CPO with a one year warranty. I felt no need for a PPI. Would be the same for a 16M. Jealous btw

 

The question to ask of even the franchised dealer is 'have they known the car from new'? If not then the car needs a PPI - simply checking a database for accident damage and service history isn't enough. Many dealers buy their used stock in from elsewhere and will have no prior knowledge of the car. If you know and trust the dealer and they have known the car from new then you can take a view on getting a PPI.
I have a trusted local franchised dealer and have paid them to collect and PPI F cars from elsewhere - never had an issue with dealers not allowing a car to be collected for a PPI. I have also paid the service department at the trusted dealer to PPI one of their own cars in order to guarantee what I was buying. You will be amazed what the service department will put in a report about even one of their own cars (sales and service tend to work individually) when they are being paid and their professional opinion is required - I have then used such a report to negotiate on the price.
Buyer beware!

 

Any dealer should be okay with transporting the car to a shop of your choice for a PPI, sometimes the dealer will have done a PPI before listing the car if they are an authorized Ferrari dealer or such so they can provide such info to potential buyers. I would assume this to be more the CPO cars than cars outside of the CPO eligibility age.

 

I bought my 16M from an individual and had him drop it off at the dealer for a PPI. No matter the miles, it's a five year old car. Definitely get a PPI.

 

You need documentation of major service. How old is the car? If you don't have it, then it needs one and I would discuss this with the dealership. I'm a little surprised they would offer it for sale without the major being competed or without having documentation of it being done recently.

 

As others have said its a 5 year old car and a PPI is something that should be done.
I purchased my 16M from my local dealer and was completely fine with their PPI.
Additionally, when you purchase a power cube or whatever they call the warranty, a compression test is done. I would want to know what warranties were purchased by the previous owner/owners, as this is an indication as to what kind of maintenance the car had.
Hopefully they will allow you to see the car on a lift to examine for any indications of leaks or under carriage damage. And be sure the top operates 100% without issue. Not a warranty item.
Good luck with your purchase. The 16M is a very unique and special car.

 

+1

 

I didn't get a PPI when I purchased my 360 last month from my local dealer. I had the dealer perform a basic annual service and talked to the mechanic about fluids, clutch wear, tires, etc. I paid $10-15k more than if I had bought from an individual, but for me the peace of mind buying from a local dealer who sold the car new and had serviced it for years with records was FAR more valuable than any PPI would ever be. And I got the opportunity to actually drive the car and experience how it looks and feels myself. If something goes wrong, I can drive it over there to talk to the dealer rather than be sitting with a piece of paper that provides no recourse anyway. Doesn't mean the dealer will make things right, but I think they are likely to act rationally and reasonably.

I look at it like anything else - there is a risk. I considered what the realistic probability of a problem is and whether I could live with that. A PPI doesn't eliminate the risk. How many posts on Fchat are of buyers who did everything "right" with a PPI and still ended up with a money pit. Ultimately, I figured that if I got hit with $30k in repair bills in the first year, I could live with that as a *possible* risk. I assume the same is true for anyone considering a car above $200k.

If you go and buy this car right now with no PPI, the *most likely* result is that you enjoy the crap out of it without any major problems. If you get a PPI, your most likely result is essentially the same in my view. In either case, there's a chance you'll have to invest something in the first year to sort the car and a very small chance you have a major problem but deal with it and still end up with a car you love.

Bottom line for *me* is that a car with known provenance from a legitimate dealer with a service department that has checked the car is FAR more valuable than any PPI. If buying from an individual I would certainly GET a PPI, but I would still perceive MORE risk in that transaction than what you are considering without the PPI. Just my personal opinion and I know many Fchatters don't share it.

Buy the car and enjoy it!

 

+1!


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Nutsack has some good advice. None of these cars are absolutely 100% positively perfect the way you want them no matter what or how low the miles. You will always have to "sort" out a car when you get it to make that car your own, could be a couple of minor things or something major but yet still to make something your own it will be an inevitable step. PPI and service history IMHO are humble starting points when taking ownership. In fact the more info you have the better. I've bought sight unseen and have been lucky but then again a couple of minor things had to be sorted.

Here's an example...a local here just took delivery of a brand NEW Ferrari 458 Speciale and you'd think that would be perfect. Wrong. The first thing that was done was a paint correction to remove swirl marks from the FACTORY paint. So there you have it. no matter brand new, slightly used, or well used...expect to spend something to get the car into how you want it for yourself.

 

Yes, I sense that we are of similar view. I worked very hard to *earn* the money for my car and think it's appropriate to thoughtfully consider all the risks. I'm NOT one who just doesn't care if there's something wrong. More that I don't understand how a PPI meaningfully reduces the risk in your situation. Especially with a CPO car...if something doesn't show up in the first year, it almost surely would not have been caught by a PPI anyway.

(side note: I came across this thread because the 16M is my absolute dream car! Congratulations and please post updates if (WHEN!!) you buy it)

 

^^^ you will find most all of these cars have scuffs on underside of bumper(s) ... They are low cars and it can happen if they are driven which they should be, a lot of times dealers will respray bumpers. In addition some cars have front skid plate while others do not.

 

You are right to be fussy. Your description is a sign of a car not being cared for. At 16K miles I have no marks or scrapes on or under any part of the car, don't have skid plates and although I did lightly scrape 1 wheel on a low curb a couple of years back it was repaired the same week. Unless you have a particular need for low mileage garage queen I wouldn't worry, these cars are for driving and they take it well!