1973.5 911 T

Discussion in 'Porsche' started by jippiejake, Apr 3, 2017.

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  1. jippiejake

    jippiejake Formula Junior
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    #1 jippiejake, Apr 3, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  2. jippiejake

    jippiejake Formula Junior
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    #2 jippiejake, Apr 3, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  3. lopena

    lopena Karting
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    Nov 3, 2003
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    That VIN is appropriate for a U.S.-spec 1973 911T with electronic K-Jetronic fuel injection. There were 1,944 such cars produced. The engine number should be in the range of 6133001 - 6136092.
     
  4. lopena

    lopena Karting
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    And don't let anyone tell you that your car isn't worth anything since it's only a "T". Those late-model '73.5 T's are pretty valuable since they offer the aesthetics and driving experience of an early "long-hood" 911 (before impact bumpers in 1974), yet have a very easy to live with electronic fuel injection system. The mechanical fuel injection system offered on the 911E and 911S are fiendishly complex by comparison.
     
  5. lopena

    lopena Karting
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    Final thought:

    If that's a matching numbers, original paint, rust-free example then you've got a six-figure car there (yes, the first figure is a "1").

    Get yourself a Porsche Certificate of Authenticity to see if engine number, transmission number, colors and options are all as delivered from the factory.
     
  6. 4CamGT

    4CamGT Formula 3
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    I would say realistically if the above is correct, looking at the photos, condition, color combo, list of "things to do", I put the value in the range of $55K to $65K. '73.5T's have the stronger 7R block and are really good driving machines. Not as emotional and/or desirable IMHO as a '72/'73 MFI 911. Looks like the wheels are earlier 14" or 15" deep dish Fuchs.

    Freeman
     
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  8. cheesey

    cheesey Formula 3

    Jun 23, 2011
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    the Fuchs wheels are date coded on the inside, should there be questions about the wheels,
     
  9. 4CamGT

    4CamGT Formula 3
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    If they're "deep dish 6's" they would be dated 1971 or before. "Flat 6's" are correct for this car but not as valuable. You can tell by the way the spoke connects to the rim. Deep 6's go in then out vs flat. If the hole by the valve stem is shaped like a heart, even more desirable.

    Freeman
     
  10. jippiejake

    jippiejake Formula Junior
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    #9 jippiejake, Apr 3, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  11. jippiejake

    jippiejake Formula Junior
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  12. jippiejake

    jippiejake Formula Junior
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    #11 jippiejake, Apr 3, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  13. 09Scuderia

    09Scuderia Formula 3

    Nov 20, 2011
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    rust. That is the killer of these things. Early long hoods rust everywhere. A 'little' rust on the outside means big rust is hiding. The cost to restore a car like this is easily $100k.
     
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  15. cheesey

    cheesey Formula 3

    Jun 23, 2011
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    Porsche of NA issues the COA... google their web page, it will list info about obtaining a COA... there is a fee, don't recall but guessing $100.00+... it takes a few weeks to get it back
     
  16. GT Jones

    GT Jones Formula Junior
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    Writing to you as someone who bought a non-running '76 911 from an estate and then had to rebuild the engine I would do a little detective work if time allows. Forget the COA for now, it won't tell you how much work the car will need! PM if you want to chat in more detail over what to look for.
     
  17. 375+

    375+ F1 Rookie
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    +1
     
  18. lopena

    lopena Karting
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    Mike:

    Nothing I see in your recent photos scares me...this 911 looks pretty much unmolested and intact (aside from some dodgy wiring and J.C. Whitney accessories). Rust is the major issue, as 09scuderia mentioned above, but if this has been a California car its whole life you may get lucky in that regard.
    Your next step should be to sign on to www.early911sregistry.org. Like FerrariChat this website has reams of useful information about your longhood, especially on the mechanical/technical side.
    Post your photos on early911sregistry and you'll get pages of feedback about how to proceed and where to have work done. Being that you live in Venice, CA you're in the center of the early Porsche universe...there are dozens of independent Porsche experts within a 50 mile drive.
     
  19. vjd3

    vjd3 Formula 3
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    Looks like a nice find, those old 911s are terrific cars. But as others mentioned, definitely look for rust, they did not start galvanizing the bodies until 1975 if I remember correctly.

    A non-AC car ... just as well as that early system was about as effective as a fart in a windstorm.
     
  20. billswim

    billswim Rookie
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    Looks like a pretty decent find esp @ 30K-40K. You didn't get any pictures of the common rust areas though. Battery box, front suspension pan, rear seat, pedal box. 73 1/2 is the first iteration of the CIS fuel injection system. Eventually they got that system reliable. The first gen had some teething problems and some parts are unavailable and either have to be rebuilt or worked around. It is much simpler than the MFI but I prefer the MFI, personally. Whoever said its worth $100K is probably a little optimistic. The problem with crs that have sat for so long is every system needs to be gone through and it gets expensive. Budget $1K/year that the car sat. That's been a pretty good metric in my experience.
     
  21. 09Scuderia

    09Scuderia Formula 3

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    to be safe assume you will drop $20k to get this truly road worthy. If the motor needs rebuilt (looks like it has OLD leaks) your total will be closer to $30k.

    No deals in the old Porsche world.
     
  22. WPOZZZ

    WPOZZZ Formula 3

    Aug 22, 2012
    1,872
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    It looks like a nice car. Can you find out why it wasn't driven? I bought an 85 Carrera from my local Porsche dealer as it was sitting for about 8 years in the service bay. It too, was running when parked and I bought it as such. I got a really good price on it so whatever happened, I was okay with it. Towed it to my mechanic to get running again and some updates. It was my first Porsche and it was a really fun car.

    Now, as a Porsche noob, I had no idea as to the strange sounds it could make, and what it meant. I could wind out 1-2 and it sounded great, 2-3 sounded about the same, but it also sounded like the car was farting. This farting/popping is a sign of loose heads, which will necessitate an engine drop and either tighten heads, or replace studs. i.e. top end job.

    Just go in with your eyes open, and hope for the best, but expect the worst. I am now on my 8th Porsche.
     
  23. 375+

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  24. jippiejake

    jippiejake Formula Junior
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    Thanks so much for this..
    I'm at a complete loss with these cars..
    The engine number is 6134142
    I got it moved out of the garage its lived in for all its life.
    With a new battery and fresh fluids it started right up.
    These cars are amazing.
    This sure wouldn't have happened if it was a Ferrari or Maserati, maybe a Lambo?

    So thinking of just going through the whole car, getting everything sorted and checked..
    A good cleaning too.
    The carpets are worn, and so is the form padding for the drivers seat. I heard about Sierra Madre as a good place to get parts from..
     
  25. jippiejake

    jippiejake Formula Junior
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    I will look.
    Inside on the outside or inside the rim?

    Thanks so much for your help!!!
     
  26. jippiejake

    jippiejake Formula Junior
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    The owner who passed was a Ferrari guy and drove his Testarossa more is all.
    He passed about a year ago so its been sitting maybe a year and half, so not terrible..
     
  27. jippiejake

    jippiejake Formula Junior
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    Any suggestions on who to use to rebuild the engine if it needs doing?
    I'm in Los Angeles..
     

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