Looking awesome!!
I had the same exact issue with that harness not to long ago. The harness was sitting directly on the front manifold, burned the harness in half.
Anyone know if the lift supports are OEM for this car or did it just come with the stick? The hardware looks correct, this is an April build 77 Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Original is stick only. My September 1978 had only a stick. It looks like someone added the lift support. Without the lift support the lid is heavy to raise to an open position. The stick is not in the original position. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
I can tell you with some certainty that it didn't come with the "stick" that your photo shows The non-US 308B/S SPC shows that the sliding "stick" prop rod was used on GTB up to SN 27581 and then they went to the gas springs on SN 27583 and after (as Joe said, all US version 308B/S used the sliding stick prop rod): https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/diagram/ferrari/308-gtb-gts-carburetor/107-rear-bonnet-and-luggage-compartment-covering However, the hardware for the gas springs looks very "bolt-on" so putting them on an earlier SN GTB, like yours, looks very doable. Does your car have the channel piece for the sliding stick end, item 18, still welded in place? Of course, a really proper conversion to the gas springs would have it removed. Here's a shot of a 1978 US car showing the sliding stick system and the channel piece, item 18, which should be very similar to what your car would've originally had (ignore the yellow arrow): Image Unavailable, Please Login
Are you sure Did a bit more digging and now see the rail and see that Verrel makes a repro articulating pivot that attaches to the rear deck. I actually don’t mind the lift supports even though not correct. I will try to find the appropriate parts to return it to as it was. I have a box of stuff that came with the car and am slowly sorting through things, thanks to everyone for replying. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Very very nice work.. Indeed, "natural aluminum" castings is how it "left the factory"...it seems there should be "something" to preserve your hard work, but "gentle oxidizing is indeed correct!!!
Oh the "Sliding stick" of the early cars is highly desirable, and a hallmark of "early" cars. It's quite the thing though, and I don't see the top attachment to your engine cover? But basically, that fixed length rod, with universal flex fittings at each end, uses a little "trolley fitting" inside that u track at the bottom. This little trolley (two nylon wheels on an axle thru the bottom rod fitting) is attached to the cable from the Spring Reel, at the RH end. That's the part Verell is making, the housing of the spring reel. So, once all this stuff is hooked together, as the hood is raised this bar travels from horizontal to vertical, to prop up the hood!! Holy smokes!! Then t lower your hood you simply "push the trolley off to the left" to start it travelling that way, and then lower your hood to six inches above the latches. Let it go, to drop the last inches forcefully, engaging the two latches. My trolley broke off the old plastic....I use a stick.
The top of the rod attaches to the lid near your Paint Label...I guess I see two studs on your car at that location??? So you are looking for the plastic Attachment block at the top, as well.....
Bought a bin full of parts from a fellow fchatter 5 years ago for my testarossa, remembered that I had a spare set of exhaust flange springs, I don’t think these were standard on a 77 but they are very functional so I’m going to use them. Had the exhaust ceramic coated and waiting on the distributors to get back from Wade at Merlin. Hoping for a late fall! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Maybe the original early 308s had crimped hex nuts but I could never get the to stay on!! That looks great!
Wow 6 weeks has passed! Bit the bullet after talking with Wade at Merlin and decided to send him my distributors to upgrade the ignition. Cleaned the carbs and reinstalled, new fuel line from belmetric, ran a test and everything looks good with no leaks. Hope to fill her full of coolant this weekend and see if I can fire her up and set the timing. It’s getting cool here now hovering around +5 celcius daytime highs but no snow yet!! I’m hoping for a few more weeks with no snow. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Great work! Love this thread. Which size fuel line did you get from Belmetric, 7 or 8mm? And one more thing. Please swap your tail lights - seeing the stop light on the outside of the amber directional signals in all of your photos is causing me to visibly tremble.
Haha! I find Vodka really calms the tremble I’ll get to the lights I promise! The local guys pointed that out a few weeks ago. Belmetric - RHM8BRAID - Flennor Multi-Fuel Hose 8mm Braided FOOT (RHM8BRAID)
Had the whole day to myself, no wife or kids Wired up the new Pertronix ignition to the coils, lined up the distributors with the flywheel and she came to life!!! Such a relief to hear it run, I’m sure I’m not the only one to doubt themselves and question if you did everything you should have! Was able to get things very close, idle is a bit on the high side around 1100 at idle but she’s running pretty smooth. I haven’t touched the carbs other than to check the airflow and they look pretty close. Hope to test drive it this weekend will dial it in a bit more. Image Unavailable, Please Login
If you haven't timed the distributors that will change the idle once dialed in. I would confirm that before digging into the carb synch, etc. but you probably are already aware of that.
3 deg Celsius with some light snow but we were able to get her out for a few runs up/down the street! When reinstalling the splined distributor into the cams, is there an optimal position for the rotory arm relative to the red notch in the distributor? Do you centre it at AF7 for each bank or do you centre it at TDC for each bank? I had no luck getting it to run using TDC Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Those positions are really so close together that it usually doesn't make much difference which you use for the initial rough setting to just get it going (since the final position is determined using the timing light), BUT the thing inside the distributor that fires the coil should also be positioned so that it fires the coil when the rotor is pointing at the red notch (this is the part that sometimes get messed up).
Ok thanks Steve. I sent the distributors to Wade at Merlin and he set things up with the Pertronix 9MR-183 so I’m confident things should be firing properly. I assume if it starts and runs pretty well there is enough play in the distributors to fine tune things by loosening the 3 pivots points. As I mentioned earlier I haven’t adjusted anything from the carb end of things yet as I wanted to start with the distributors.
Yes, generally, if you can get where you want within in the slots, things are OKish to work. One way you can reverse check the placement of the thing inside the dist firing the coils is after you set the #1 idle timing to 7 deg BTDC with the timing light, remove the 1-4 cap and set the flywheel to AF7 (#1 at end of compression stroke) and see if the rotor is pointing at the red notch. I see that you are using the QV dist rotor with the wider business end so that gives a lot more forgiveness in this whole area so unless you had some sort of operational problem all is good.
Well the snow finally shut us down but not before we had a chance to do a few runs. Lid was off and had the timing light hooked up, my son ripped up and down the street, it was +4 celcius I have the OEM rims but need new tires, these rims came with the car. My son had a blast and is eagerly anticipating the spring and driving the car. I have a few little things to address over the winter and will update this thread as I go. https://youtube.com/shorts/ZUA3y0wCYzo?feature=share
Wondering if anyone can confirm what belongs in the front compartment? I’ve seen the zipper cover like in the rear. I assume my water bottle has been moved? The tabs in my picture look like they accept a threaded bolt? I pulled a picture off the 308 website of what I assume is correct! Thanks in advance for any feedback. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
My (admittedly foggy) recollection is that a 1977 US uses a "washer bag" like shown here (and in your photo of the red car frunk), not a hard bottle (but glad to be corrected if wrong): https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/diagram/ferrari/308-gtb-1976-fibreglass/120-windshield-wiper--washer-and-horn
