OK, so nobody else has posted this. This one is quite special. Knock-off Borranis, walnut console and instrument surround, exposed front driving lamps, glossy black-painted bumpers and rear panel, Cavallino badge on grille, airboxes wrapped in foil insulation. Plus some other lamps on the console. Looks to be in good nick. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ASS%3AUS%3A1123&viewitem=&item=220271058836 Aidan
That cavalino is on its knees! I understand the foil wrapped cold air intake but it's distracting, takes away from the real mech. beauty that lies w/in. Clean engine though---you don't see that often!
Funny, I had just found this car on eBay and I came to this section seeing if there was any info and BAM! here's a thread - but it's low on thoughts/info... any thoughts on this particular car from people that know 400s? I'm early into my true Ferrari education, and I know very little about the 400 series except what I've gleaned from researching on the internet and especially here on F-Chat... can anyone give me a general idea on what to expect this car to go for? It's actually right down the street, so I can check it out if it'll be something I decide may work for me... what do folks think of a 400 as a first foray into F-car ownership? On this particular car I love the Borranis and the color combo...
RMSI, First of all, take it for a drive and see if you like a 400A. It is a very cool car but it is not a sportscar. If you still like it after the drive, get copies of the receipts and study them; learn the maintenance history of the car. If these haven't sunk you, get a PPI. Once you have done all three, you will know if it is worth buying the car - if it still smells like roses, set a limit in the mid to high $30s (if you get it for less - great!), deduct from there for the cost of each issue found. Remember, these cars are very expensive to bring back, a good, sorted car purchased for $35K car is MUCH cheaper in the long run than an ok condition $25K car (remember, an engine rebuild alone for this car is north of $25K). Hope this helps, Art S.
Thanks, it does... and I think you're absolutely right, I need to go and drive it before making any decisions... I'm definitely not looking for a "sportscar," because if so I wouldn't be looking at a GT - but of course I'd like something that has a bit of "go" to it... my '62 Cadillac has a lot of hp but also a lot of girth, and while I was expecting more from the 400 than the Caddy, I (obviously) wasn't expecting it to go anything like the 430 I got to drive recently... Looks like the auto tranny is a GM product, so does that mean rebuild kits are easy to come by and (dare I say it) inexpensive? Is there much debate of the carbureted versus injected 400s? Sorry if these are really newbie questions, but thanks in advance for the help. Ryan
you are a lot smarter than i. i jump in and drown on these cars. repairs are bank account ruin. i still love them.
Ryan, The 400 is a heavy car but it carries its weight well and is not a boat like your Caddy. Carbs make more power, look better and sound better on average than the CSI injection that is used on the injected cars and can add to the joy of ownership becouse they can be rewarding to play with, but they do require some playing with, cleaning, resealing but once adjusted right you will not have to do that anymore unless you travel and are a stickler for maxium power and you might end up changing jets. Since you are in AZ and if you get 'classic' car insurance you will not have to emmissions test it and if you do there are ways to make them pass once learned fairly easey to do.
It is indeed a pretty car, but I wouldn't get excited thinking it is exceptional. A few observations that to me are indicators of it being a more "average" car: - lacquer check - the usual front stone chips - old paint in general - mixed tires -- Pirelli P600 and Yokohama AVS-I - cheap "tire wet" product slathered all over - interior wood and chrome looks like it has its share of wear. Wood veneer is very expensive to re-do, and what's the point if it's not perfect or excellent? The foil on the intakes suggests either a thoughtful and proactive owner who treats the car as a driver (probably), or an attempt to improve vapor lock or hot start difficulty (less likely, IMO). The fact that they took a bunch of pictures at dusk tells me that the paint has a lot of (fine) swirls in it. Sure it looks very Miami Vice with the reflection of the sunset against it, but it also hides all of the flaws. The camera flash in one photo tells the story, although the flash can be harsher than sunlight. Overall, it looks to me like it is showing its age and miles. If the service history suggests it is well maintained, then it would make a nice driver, but I wouldn't get too excited about it. It has some tasteful features, but I see those as making it the preferred choice over a more typical car of equal mechanical and cosmetic condition -- not more valuable.
I just had to check this out, not too much info on the Chevvy power but the price line got me thinking ????? "this is a 1979 ferrari 400 with GOOD paint,interior,tires,tranny,a/c,motor needs work,ask price is $15000 obo" What does the OBO stand for ? $15000 Or Bugger Off ?
A friend has just emailed to tell me that it means 'Old Bills Only' I'm glad I've got that cleared up then !
Are you serious or joking?? It generally means 'Or Best Offer' (at least here in the states), why don't you low-ball it (like $8K) & see if they bite or counter.
Well, in the remainder of the English speaking world, it's common to write "ono" which is 'or nearest offer' Obo seems to be only common in the states.
Well, yes it is in the states. And hence, the obo usage. But the person asking the question is from South Africa, where, as in most of the English speaking world, they use ONO (or nearest offer). Haven't you ever opened up a Motorsport or CAR or some other British car magazine and checked out the classifieds?
