I love the cars and coffee concept on the show, you guys are very creative and entertaining while presenting the information. Hey, I tried to stay out of the shots when you were filming the 308 segments, but I did see my shoes and hair in the shot when you were showing the rear bumper modifications. haha. I was examining the clutch and brake pedal assembly and brackets in the front when you were in the back. Clearly I was an outsider given that I had shoes on my feet and not sandals. Keep up the great work!
Wiring map on wall is helping. Glad we went with rewire vs. new harness. Wires under wraps in near perfect condition (minus some wiring hacks over the years.. . but only a few)..... Connectors good, fixture cores good, just tons of respect for HAND construction..... A few photo's of "cleaning: efforts to strip down to base wiring for -rebuild.... and we are close... 2 days of wire by wire reverse effort...... Note the coils of wires are the 2nd days pile (way smaller) than day 1... and marked as we go to make sure everything is labeled! A few things posted on "onohutch" eBay store as we go..... (not a real store but a place to consolidate everything from the 308). Hutch Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
So here is an apparent heat shield in good condition (brush and clean) that I feel compelled to send to a 308 Owner in need of the part. Thanks for your help and insight in this project!! It is appreciated! ID the part for my curiosity and I simply want to ensure it goes to your good use on your 308 so I will send it to whoever post/PM/s me 1st. At least post a cool photo too! Swivel Chair, Ferrari, and Rainbow sandals not included. Hutch Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Well I don't need it, but it looks like the heat shield that goes under the alternator and then on top of the fuel crossover pipe. I could be wrong. But I doubt it. And I believe it's stainless isn't it so I wouldn't use a brush to clean it but that's just me. You are right though it should polish right up if someone wants.
While doing the Electric Ferrari project I found another perfect project! A 1980 124 Fiat Spider 2000 Pininfarina (with 0 rust) stripped down and fully accessed for electric conversion. Will post updates occasionally here and also on Instrgram @electricferrari. Measurements are perfect for either 1 or 2 AC-50 HPEVS motors and either 8 or 12 of the 3 kWh 18650 Battery Modules for a 24 or 36 kWh pack. Likely going standard performance with 1 motor and 8 modules on this one with a Red on tan restoration. Range about 100 miles.... 89 HP new motor (gas equivalent to about 135 HP) vs old 82 HP 2000 cc motor. May have to do another one in gun metal grey with twin motors for about 245HP some day....... That would really smoke some tires! But the single should be awesome considering 100% torque at 0 mph. Like the 308, minus the fire and damage, this one ran OK but there were decades of problems sneaking up! All suspension bushings are toast, coiler replacement time (QA1's possible). The Quibo was shot and may as well service the transmission (and 1 electric motor will be less likely to need a couple spares around). Notice the use of the Faro arm to engineer the replacement electric motors to engine mounts, flange to existing transmission, Faro'd the truck to design the truck battery box and ID fab requirements while providing aluminum guys with specs for build direct from Solidworks! Thought it would neat to see Project Cousin. Nor for some project photos: Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
We fabricated the bracket to fit the OEM brake/clutch transverse box as mentioned before. Pedal lengths were off so we extended them 2". Perfect placement in the driver foot box now... Manual brakes with double reservoirs (front/back) w/ adjustable pressure. Hydraulic clutch for Tilton. Plumbing the Reservoirs Monday... requires a few hose fitting 90's to get into the tight space. Used a rubber matt cut-to-fit the box and pedal arms to isolate air from front boot into interior. Starting to plumb the clutch line and brake lines next week. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Was nice to meet the guys from Translogic last Friday at EV West. They published their visit... short and quick..... Ferrari got some call outs and footage...... Jonathan and crew are great guys and want to come back when the 308 is ready for a drive! Translogic 171: EV West Karmann Ghia Electric Conversion Hutch
Front left down.... 3 to go. Giro disc package, QA1's, Refurbished A Arms (and all parts where able or replaced as needed), etc. James Pauly from Australia in the shop for 2 months helping out! (He is building a 1000HP Nissan Skyline down under!). No small effort over the weekend! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
This is our final solution after multiple discussions and input from many. The bracket from Solidworks via the plasma cutter and some final cleaning up is an adjustable bracket that allows the Euro factor bumper to fit on a US car, with the US grill. Yep. A little tweaking all the way around and you know it if you have tried. So here is what we got.... and i like it for this project. Picks up the lines of the Pininfarina hood and x's out the poor US bumper looks (and weight for the EV). Amber LED's in the "white" Euro spot to maintain Euro look while keeping a front orange/amber "running" light. DRL's cute faced into the top row of the US grill filled in the vacancy of the new bumper. After this per photos.... I am really happy with the new mods front end. Plenty of work to plow but nice to see the results of 5 months showing well. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Say, Rifledriver, I can't help but notice your location shows "Austin, Texas". So what do you mean when you say "we"...??? Of course San Diego is actually in (big surprise) SOUTHERN California. If you think TEXAS is a "whole different country"- or something like it- try SOUTHERN California vs. NORTHERN California. Not even close, and we DON"T all wear floppies OR especially Hawaiian shirts here in NorCal, except for the occasional disoriented, braindead tourist. BTW as I'm in Central California given the choice we consider it to be a part of NorCal, FYI. SF is close; LA is...not. As for San Diego, it might as well be in M..... . Floppies and dangerous things to stand on regardless, I wish these guys well but seems pretty darn complicated to me; just where are they going to put all the stuff to make it work? PS Didn't see all the photos before I posted this...absolutely incredible! But will it really work? Cheers, Rich
Getting all caught up with the last couple of weeks worth of progress. Since we are moving at a strong clip, I will try to stay on top of updates an photos to track the progress. This is the main, most detailed tracking record of this project. The custom pulley wheels for the tractor belts that will connect the top two motors with the main lower center shaft are headed to the FastMill the master machinist today. EV West engineer Michael Bream dug deep into engineering design details to get the power plant installation into high gear. Had to design vent holes in the "V" belt covers to allow for the air circulation on the back end of the air cooled motors. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dropped in the CanEV heater box under the dash where the AC used to live. Basically invisible and light up behind fuse blocks. Built with twin 1500w elements wired directly to the 153 high voltage battery pack directly. Re-routed all ducting into recirculation center vent box intake. Works really we'll using louvers to distribute air flow and saves a ton of space & weight. Compact and really functional for the EV. Last picture shows the front battery w speed wholes in box cover... 50% weight reduction... Carbon Fibre will be bonded on top. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks Steve... Good question... get that a-lot of that.... Opted out of AC on this design for several reasons. Priority in order: (1) Weight, (2) Weight, (3) windows and removable top, (4) So Cal climate, (5) Cost and additional work. On average for an EV conversion, I would switch out the compressor for and electric one. Leave everything else in place. But the 308 climate control system takes up so much space I was inclined to simplify and reduce as much weight as possible. No more fans up front, no dual exchange boxes, dual air diverted and fresh/recirculate options. The heater is set on recirculate for efficiency in this project. Prepackaged AC systems exist and can be installed or we could fit a system with an exchanger in the fan box and condenser up front. Compressor could go in a number of places up front and is small.
Rich- Rifledriver is one of the best ferrari mechanics and had his shop in the bay area for many many years. I am sure he knows this state better than anyone. He was in CA when he posted this and just very recently moved to Austin. Not sure if you meant this in jest but it does come across as idiotic. Might want to research an individual a bit before posting against someone. He was joking on an earlier posting. Might want to read through this post too as these guys are going a great job on this unique build.
Looks dope! I am going to steal your faro arm ; ) Good luck as you continue to work towards completion!
That Faro Arm is the favorite toy around the shop......! You may have to create a good tire smoking diversion to sneak it out the side door seeing as smoking tires really get everyones attention in the shop.... works every-time... they are suckers for that! TIP OF THE DAY: Interesting fact came up in discussion yesterday: We are running a 153 Volt system in the 308. There are 3 x 500 amp Curtis controllers (one for each AC-51 motor). 153 volts x 1,500 amps = 229,500 watts. 229,500 watts divided by 746 watts (746 watts equals 1 horse power) and we come up with 308 Horse Power. Really, 308 Electric Horsepower?? It must have been meant to be? So for our in house compare it to gas horsepower ratio of x1.5 we get a gas equivalent feeling of 462 HP. We underestimated our initial numbers. Whoops. Looks like we will need more tires. Project is making solid daily progress. We really want this on the road in April. So does the BBC .
Great numbers. Can't wait to experience this beast in person. I've bid SAN for April. Hope to see you all again soon. Mark
Good day Eric, I hope you will forgive me if my questions have been asked before and/or are obvious... I ask them, as being a EE I have to deal with this stuff routinely... A. What type of electrical safety circuitry will be installed given the high voltage (153V)... and DC no less. High Voltage with this current capability can cause serious damage and/or is fatal if someone touches something they are not supposed to. B. Obviously there are Electrical Codes for buildings and so I imagine there would be similar requirements for EV cars... or has the legislation/requirements not yet caught up with this Industry? C. If there are electrical code requirements who does the inspection? Are there Governmental inspectors (like in building codes) for EV applications? D. Lastly, most electrical devices require EMC/EMI (electromagnetic compatibility / electromagnetic interference) compliance (i.e. FCC Part A, B, etc) and so are the EV cars subjected to radiated emission testing? Cheers, Sam
Sam- Thanks for reaching out. I think the real shock will come from riding in the car! But seriously, a few points: A. First line of defense is insulating all exposed conductors of high voltage. 153 is a relatively low voltage, and DC voltage has a less harmful affect on humans than AC voltage. That being said, with 100's of thousands of EVs on the road, there isn't a single instance injury from an EV battery shock yet. Much safer than explosive hydro carbons. B. None. Because the DC systems are isolated and not 'earth grounded', the risk of shock is significantly less. You almost have to go out of your way to create a situation where you can be shocked. C. None. D. Not in the US. In the EU they do this, but it's not necessary here. EMF isn't a problem in any of the motors we use here in the US, and they have all been tested in the EU and have all passed. Here is a great link on AC/DC issues: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hp97GjuULX8 BR, Eric
Good day Eric, Thank you for your responses! Again I am not an expert on EV and its requirements and so I may be off base here, but... In regards to the voltage...Actually 153VDC is quite large and given that it is DC can actually cause full cardiac arrest... This is dependent on the person's skin resistance, any open wounds, and the path the current will take. As for which causes the most damage... AC or DC... it depends. DC by its vary nature can cause full involuntary muscular contraction which can prevent the unintended shock recipient from releasing... As for AC... well, it can cause cardiac fibrillation ... which is obviously not good either. As for pain... indeed AC is worse. As for (B) Electrical Code requirements... Being isolated from Earth ground is not an exception from electrical code. Now, there may be an exemption because the Electrical code refers to electricity used in structures, etc and so my guess is that at some point that it will be either extended or a new standard in place to include EV. I say this, as the Voltage and current output is very significant and if one reviews the electrical code one can see requirements for conduit, conductor size, fusing, etc. My feeling is that the primary feed is a Class 1 circuit... and if were me and there were no regulations I had to follow... I would ensure adequate fusing/breakers were installed just in case. As for (D)... This is interesting. I am curious if the actual DC motor control is modulated somehow? If so, then it is switching large currents and so would be radiating a fair amount of EM radiation that could cause interference to other devices (which is FCC regulation is trying to minimize). Hard to say, as I have never looked into how the EV controls its motors...however, I would guess some modulation is done in order maintain high torque levels at low RPM... Again, I simply do not know. Thanks again for your responses! Cheers, Sam
