Weber Carbs Direct has good prices on new jets. I would replace them.
Got the carbs re-synched and it still popped on one cylinder. I had noticed one of the rubber o-rings around the idle jets was a little scuffed up, but did not think it would cause a problem---Wrong! Replaced the o-ring and finally I have a perfect running car. It's amazing I was able to drive this thing home with idle circuits working on only 3 or 4 cylinders. Getting back to one of my early posts, I thought I could get this thing running right in about 5 minutes, but in reality it took about 5 weeks. I may have been able to do it in less time if I didn't work during the day and if I had not been so facinated with finding out exactly what was screwed up. So, I thought it was just out of synch, but in reality there were 3 problems with the carbs in addition to being out of synch. 2 carbs had particles in the idle jets, one idle jet did not have an o-ring gasket (you really need those!) and one o-ring was chewed up and the carb without the o-ring had particles in the inner passageways. Now I can continute with cosmetics and upgrading reliabilty. Birdman--I have not really 'rebuilt' the carbs yet, I just tore them down and cleaned them. On the "to do list" is to do a formal rebuild with gaskets and some new, properly marked jets and polishing the brass parts. Got a new bunch of parts form GT carparts. New amber signal lens, fuzzy strips for inside top of the doors, new logo caps for the wheels, passenger door light and some gaskets.
Sharp looking car Beta! Now what are these features, I do not have them in my GT4, is that US regulation stuff? And the registration plate on the driver's side is that aftermarket, and should the plate not be parallel with the door lock thingy instead of parallel with the rubber door seal? Just being curious Image Unavailable, Please Login
One is the air pump, for emsissions. The other is the charcoal cannister, also for emissions. While we are mentioning this, does anyone happen to have a spare bracket to hold on the charcoal cannister. Mine is broken, and for the life of me I can't find one. I ordered one from Ferrari UK ages ago, and it turns out it was the wrong size for my cannister... Dom
thanks Dom, I always thought the charcoal cannister was located closer to A/C. Now if anyone can help me with the serial plate, you would make me a happy man. Image Unavailable, Please Login
In reply to the engine compartment questions, this is a Dec 78 USA car and the charcoal canister is, I believe, original and in it's original location. I have yet to take the canister out and clean it up and fit new hoses. The car originally came with a single air pump (earlier US cars had 2 pumps). This particular 'blue' pump may be from some other application and was retrofitted at some time in the car's history. It does not fit exactly, the mounting bracket is shimmed with a small stack of washers. FCA concourse rules require emission control devices to 'appear functional' and my plan is to clean the blue paint off of this pump and remove the innards so that the pully justs spins in a bearing. My father's 308 (which we have owned since new) still has the thermoreactor muffler and all original mechanicals. We used to take the belts off for driving (it has 2 pumps) and then put them back on for shows. The problem with that is that the pumps will freeze up. Now we have two 'fake' pumps with blets that look like they are working. Although the thermoreactor muffler may still be a fire hazard we have left it in place. The plans for my GT4 are to make all the smog stuff look like it works. For example, my flapper valve in the air intake is frozen open, but I still have an new fabric covered hose connected to it for the correct appearance. I am not shure how I will fare at the national meet with the european headers and ANSA exhaust, but my justification is that these are 'period' modifications. The USA headers are no longer available (is this true??) and the originals were probably cracked from the heat. The european one is a 'factory original' part. The muffler looks like a 'vintage' ANSA in that there is the remains of a red stripe around the exhaust tip between the black wrinkle finish and the chrome that I remember to be an ANSA trademark. If it is ANSA or not, it certainly is NOT a modern polished stainless steel wonder.
I have measured the rivets on the car and some are 6.0mm, 6.2mm and 6.43mm. This is, unfortunatly, in the range of SAE 1/4 inch, so I am not shure which rivets on the car are original. The rivets holding the plate in position are 6.3mm and could possibly be SAE 1/4inch. Certainly the car was re-painted in that area. The plate is not parallel to the ground or anything else. My owner's manual is a 1976, so I cannot confirm 100% the correct location for the plate.
Sorry no pictures but last week and today the following things were completed: Replaced missing trim ring for Kenwood stereo (from an internet source that could be easily idendified as "JustKenwoodTrimRings.com" as they seemed to specialize in Kenwood trim rings) Replaced PH logos on wheels Painted airbox and lid and re-installed with new rubber bellows Untangled mess of vacuum lines running under carbs and re-connected oil pressure light Replaced front turn signal lens Replaced a cable connecting the cold-start levers on the carbs Cleaned the intake trumpets Black area inside door handles painted semi-gloss black New 18" wiper inserts (should have painted the wipers silver while they were apart, but I will keep looking for new silver wipers)
Those carbon particles that were found in side the area of the air filter have shown up again! I had to figure out how the late model 'evaporative system' worked to find the problem. The Service Manual only describes a charcoal cannister with two hoses. The late cars have a third hose. The third hose comes out of the middle of the cannister and passes to an electrovalve and then to a tube under the airbox where it enters the airbox in two places in the bottom of the airbox. In the normal situation, when the car is OFF, the flapper seals off the airbox and the electrovalve to the charcoal cannister is OPEN allowing the fumes from the airbox to enter the cannister. When the car is ON the flapper opens and the electrovalve is supposed to shut off to keep the airbox from sucking the charcoal up into the airbox. The 'proper' way for fumes to get back to the engine is through the hose that exits the top of the charcoal cannister and connects to the small tubes that feed the fumes right into the intake. Anyway, the next step is see what I can do to the electrovalve to get it to stick in the 'closed' position rather than 'open.'
Out of curiosity, how would one know if their parking brake needs adjustment? I pull the handle all the way up, car no move. Good, yes?
My interpretation of the data in the shop manual and in f-chat searches is that the mechanical mechanism (when working correctly) will automatically take up the slack as the pads wear. The adjustment under those caps is needed when placing new pads that are thicker than those removed. If frequent adjustments are needed at the caliper level then I would suspect the mechanism is no longer functioning correctly. Therefore, the threaded adjuster on the cable serves only to take up 'cable stretch' as the system ages.
Beta, this is a great read, and you have some fine taste in cars, hats off to you!!! my early 74 GT4 had the data plate just like yours. let me know if you want a pic and i will post one of it. ( sold that car, but have pics)
As much as I want to throw it in the trash, I am going to keep the air pump. If I trash the pump then I am stuck with a bunch of hoses that go nowhere. If I take out the hoses then I have the injector manifolds remaining. Taking those out and removing the 'air injectors' in the head can be a major pain. So I am going to keep it all 'looking' original. The innards of the air pump consist of a rotating drum with some fiber flappers that sweep air through an eccentric opening. Do defeat the frunction of the pump the fiber flappers need to be removed. Unfortunaty the pump has a pressed in ring with a needle bearing that does not allow space for the flappers to come out. To remove them I used pliers and 'bit' pieces of them off until they were small enough to come out through the hole in the middle of the drum. (pictures to follow). Now the airpump spins freely. My pump was also blue, and I suspect this is because it is an aftermarket replacement. The bolts holding the end in place were 1/4 SAE. The pump is stamped "metric" and the outflow manifold bolts are metric and the 3 bolts holding the pully in place are metric. Removal of the air pump requires removal of the three nuts holding the lower bracket to the cam cover. The lower mounting bolt of the pump only goes in one way because of a size difference. It only will fit when going in from the side where the oil cooler is, it can't be turned around to go in from the other side.
Here is the airpump after removing the (General Motors?) Blue paint. The back is off showing the rotating cylinder in which the fiber paddles reside. The next photo shows the innards after removal. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Airpump cleaned, painted and ready for re-assembly Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Some other new items: New wheel centers and a trim ring for the radio (this was missing). Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Things coming up on the to-do list are to take care of the rats nest of wires around the pointless ingnition. I need to re-paint these Lucas coils to look like Marelli coils and get some condensers (for show only, as this sytem does not have points) and try to make this wiring look like the original wiring. Also, I just ordered leather restoration stuff to redo the door panels and replace the fuzzy strip and put the new light in the door. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Where did you order the fuzzy strip from, and what is it called? I got a strip with my car when I purchased it, and I just did the driver's side door, but there isn't enough extra length to do the passenger side as well.... I also need to order those lights for the door. It's tough, though - mechanical MUST come before cosmetic, but I just can't resist fixing little nitpicky things like that "while I'm in there"!
Both the light and the fuzzy strip came from GT Carparts in AZ. I just asked for the 'fuzzy strip on the top inside of the door' and they knew what I wanted. To do you door you must have got a rivet gun, yes? I used mine to redo this shield. I drilled out the rivets holding the shield in place and also removed the emissions information plate. The 1/8 inch rivets fit right in the existing holes. Image Unavailable, Please Login
