No that's not my house it's my workshop which is one of my units. It's been mostly remodeled but I'm not finishing it until I stop using it for projects like this. I got them from McMaster in bulk at the time but I switched to rubber covered aluminum ones. You can use the fiber but you better check them all the time. That's a good idea anyway with this fuel delivery system. I think the aluminum crush washers are probably just fine as well.
Thanks Mike! Here's a FaceBook link to the video I posted earlier after I adjusted the carbs. https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=701406193203267&set=vb.100000016783240&type=2&theater If you have a FB account feel free to friend me. I only have 2 Maserati friends from this forum so far so same goes for anybody else reading this. Tony
A lot of those shots are indeed silver because they are freshly blasted raw metal. Left as is they won't remain that way. The one I referenced has a slightly different hue but its subtle. You can make it more pronounced and they have a couple of different shades as well. It's anti corrosion chemical conversion process using in the aircraft industry.
Things have been rather quiet here given that the holidays are over and we are now one month into 2014. I haven't been able to do much as the weather has been extremely cold. The last few weeks have seen some nights dip down into the single digits (ie: 2 deg F, 6 deg F, etc..) with highs in the 20's.. This does not make it convenient to do much in the garage nor the basement for that matter. In fact, we even had one copper pipe burst on us when it froze. Fortunately, we were home and were able to mitigate the damage substantially! But, you may have read where I have taken my Ghibli SS engine to an engine builder in Cumming GA. So, at least some progress is being made somewhere. But while I was there I checked with him on what he uses to clean carburetors in his ultrasonic cleaner. Attached is a picture of the solution.. This post is neither a recommendation nor a deterrent to the solution. I will be researching it shortly and determine if its the right stuff for me, and the cost. I will keep you all posted. Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login
cost for the one owner Calif. car. $5,000+ transport $875+steering gear$500+other parts and labor $2,500. car came with a new set of Carbs. on. one happy camper, after 5 junkers. photo next week. car scheduled for Wed. delivery.
With the weather slowly improving around here (temps in the 40+ (F) range), I couldn't take it anymore. I finally had to get out my kerosene heater out and get back out in the garage! Attached are two pictures we QPIII owners know well... The passenger footwell area and the central electronics/fusebox found in that footwell.. What a mess mine was... It appears it was not properly covered when body work was performed some time ago!! Ultimately, the sand and dirt could have wrought havoc to the electrical system. Now with the box out, I will label everything, and refinish the box, plus clean up the footwell area.... Everytime I think I am closer to start putting things together, I rip more out of the car! Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi MIE has a replacement fuse box for this with leads etc. May be worth it if there is too much corrosion in the connections. Looks like there was a little moisture in there at some point perhaps?
had to rewire the car, I am insisting that I will bring it home next Wed. Next, if a bore will put out 330 hp, why not a QP 3? motors r the same
Mitchell, I suppose it could, if you get rid of all the emissions-junk, change the exhaust systems, time the cams to euro-spec etc. That is, if the cam-profiles are the same, you'd need to go through the parts manuals of both and compare. After all that, no way it'll pass smog if you need to test for that in Kentucky. Best, Jack.
no smog test in Ky. with all the coal used here they will never have clean air. lots of cancer, really big numbers
It's about time I post what progress has been made on my QPIII... I've stopped the carb work temporarily... The weather here has been just perfect to do one of the real nasty jobs I was not looking forward to, namely gutting the interior!! The attached pictures tell the story of what I am doing... Interesting that I did not find any major rust! There was one spot on the passenger rear wheel arch edge, but so far that's it. I still have a little more in the passenger foot rest area to scrape out and then the sills by the doors, plus the rear wheel arches, and the hump. In the pictures note the holes in the rear seat bottom area, and the holes in the front seat area/rear foot wells. I am assuming these were originally designed for drainage? Interesting that all Maserati did to protect these holes was to place rectangular metal pieces over them and then coat them with 1/16" - 1/8" of some kind of plastic coating. which covers virtually every bit of the floor plus substantial parts of the rear bulkhead. But, it seems to have worked as there is no real rust in these areas. This coating along with the fiber insulation is not easy to remove!! I still have to determine whether or not to do this to the interior fire wall. You can see the tools I have been using. But, I must say I'm happy with the results so far, especially as no major rust has been found! My goal next will be to wire brush and lightly sand everything, and then coat it with POR-15, or something similar. I will then cover everything with some sort of sound insulation material. Any suggestions? Now for some questions: 1. Has anyone removed the rubber cover for the hand brake handle/housing? If so, how was this done? 2. Has anyone removed the door glass? If so, how was this done without breaking anything? Making progress and inch at a time! Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Mike, Sorry I can't help, but can I ask a favor? If you get a chance, could you post a picture of a rear door latch and lock mechanism? My left rear door is closed, the power lock doesn't work (not an electrical problem - just stuck) and the lock button has been broken off. I can't remove the panel because the screws are hidden when the door is shut. If I can see how the mechanism works, maybe I can devise a tool to reach through the lock button hole. Thanks, Larry
you have one H-ll of a project going! I still am waiting for my car.(since last June) last min. update! flash! QP 3 will be home this Thursday. wait and see, right.
Hi Mike, U r doing it right. I did that with my Merak and did the floors with Rust Encapsulator [like Por 15] then put down a thermal-sound barrier. Wow, what an improvement!!! Ciao, George
Door windows are a major PITA. I would recommend finding someone who will assume responsibility for anything that happens when tackling them. Looking good, reminds me of all the things still on my "to do" list...!
Thank you all for your responses.. All information is appreciated. George: What material did you use as the thermal sound barrier? I was thinking of Dyna-Mat, but there must be other alternatives varying in price? Ivan once gave me the name of one, but I lost my note and can't seem to remember (sigh!!).. Mitchell: Can't wait to see pictures of your car! Quattroporte3: I may have a go at the windows when that time comes. I will keep the group posted! GLB: I will get you some pictures as soon as I can. From what I have seen of the doors, chances are you will need to devise a tool to reach through the lock button hole so that you can pull up, as you indicate. I have attached 2 new pictures showing the guts of the central fuse/electronics box located in the passenger footwell. The picture does not show the black boxes, just the central piece for the fuses and related connectors. Note the handwriting on the major connectors. This was done by the factory! I find this stuff interesting! Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looks like you're doing a great job, Mike. The reason I said what I did about the windows is that's what the shop told me. I was going to have the glass put in later as there were some delays in shipping and such, and when I spoke with them he was very clear about what a major pain the door glass in this car is. From what I understand the chrome strip needs to be set up exactly right for the window to work, and one slip will ruin the paint. Additionally, the glass itself is mounted in a carrier/rail system that is really difficult to get to. If you do tackle it, take lots of pictures and let us know how it goes!
/QUOTE] I have also used KoolMat. More difficult to install and more expensive than Dynamat but the specs are quite impressive. KoolMat Hi-Tech Heat Insulation Ivan[/QUOTE] Ivan What are the pros and cons. I have my car at the stage of deciding. I was thinking also of adding it to the back of the hood insulation diamond pattern material also (like the meat in a sandwich).
Ivan What are the pros and cons. I have my car at the stage of deciding. I was thinking also of adding it to the back of the hood insulation diamond pattern material also (like the meat in a sandwich).[/QUOTE] The key difference is that Dynamat is primarily a sound insulator with heat shielding benefits while Koolmat is primarily a heat shield with sound deadening benefits. Dynamat is very easy to cut and mold to the floor as it bends easily. Koolmat on the other hand will not stretch or bend that easily. You must glue Koolmat while Dynamat simply sticks on. With Koolmat the seams are sealed with a special silicon glue which they sell. In my case I was used Koolmat as I was looking for maximum heat shielding since in the Vignale spyder the exhaust runs behind the rocker panel right next to the driver. Koolmat was also a good modern alternative for places in the firewall where the factory used asbestos. Ivan
Hello GLB... Attached are the relevant pictures of the rear QPIII Door lock mechanism, excluding the actual electric door lock solenoid.... Pictures: 1. The Vertical rod runs from the solenoid to the horizontal rod of the door lock mechanism.. This locks the door electrically. I have the rod disconnected from the solenoid so you can see how it connects at the yellowish plastic tab of the solenoid. 2. Best view of the locking mechanism I could get through the round hole. The horizontal rod runs to the manual lock knob. 3. Looking down through the manual lock knob hole. The nut you see in the picture is what I believe connects the horizontal rod, from picture 2, to the manual knob rod via some kind of clip or similar. 4. Shows the locking mechanism and the horizontal rod for manual operation, and the vertical rod for electric operation. The nut in the indented area is what I believe connects the horizontal rod for manual knob control and the vertical rod for electric operation via some kind of clip. None of this is accessible from the outside, except the manual knob rod.. I still think your best bet is to get in there and pull up on the rod to release the lock.. If the electric solenoids are not operated often I can see where they might be a little sticky, which is not good for their attached motor, or get stuck in the locked (as in your case) or the unlocked position. Hope this helps, and let us know what you end up doing, and if it works!!! Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi Mike, Thanks very much. This is exactly what I needed. My car no longer has the lock knob shaft, so I suspect the plastic tab is broken. Knowing what it looks like, I will try to do as you suggest and make a tool to reach through the lock knob hole. I really need to get into all the doors to lubricate the mechanisms because the windows barely move. Thanks again for the help. Larry
GLB.. When you make the tool, please post a picture, provided it works of course Many of us will or have already found ourselves in similar positions and may one-day not have the knob post to work with!! This could be a big help... Thanks!!! Mike
