get title only to discover that sell did not sigh front of Calif. title. never ends
Hi Mike. Mate, you may be the man to answer my query. I have a 4.9l motor which I was advised came out of a QP3 and I'm trying to ascertain the likely year of the engine (82 - 90?) The engine stamping includes 107 22 49 *4316* A serial number (?) #10689 riveted to the waterpump housing. How is your car and motor numbered? On your car, did your body/chassis number get included in the engine stamping (I believe Iso did this). Cheers and good luck with your project Mike. Enjoy it all. TonyO
Hello Tony... Where did you find the engine stamping? I took a very, very quick look but did not locate it.. I did find 10523 on a tag riveted to the housing as you indicate.. Based on this, I would suspect your engine is later than an 82.. Perhaps an 84 or 85? Mike
All.. Last week I managed to disconnect and dis-assemble the hand brake parts. It was actually quite easy... Attached is a picture of the components.. The only thing missing on mine is the push button.. Will have to figure out how to obtain one... Image Unavailable, Please Login
HI Can I get their VIN numbers and description please! I am doing the registry. Any useable parts? I guess shipping is the issue. Thanks
Hi Mike. Thanks. The stamping number is on the top of the back of the block along the bellhousing face. Yes, the serial number would indicate likely to be an '84 car. Good luck with all that you are doing there buddy. I have a '78 Indy that I bought on impulse from NJ a few years ago that is now begging for my attention. Oh boy!
Looks like this one will need some work... Not as bad as many others, but the dash, wheels, engine bay, and what's with the seats, something looks amiss with the stitching and/or stuffing? Hope the engine and drivetrain are solid, the paint looks pretty good in the pics, burgundy is a nice color on this car. I'm not sure the rims fit the overall look of the car, but it's nice to see something other than the factory original ones.
I wanted safe road tires. thus the wheel choice. I really have not looked to close at the rest of the car. i have owned it for 6 + months and yesterday was the first time i have seen it. the car was sent from the seller to an out of state shop.. i returned it to the shop yesterday because the hood release on one side did not work every time
HI Tires look quite good and seem to "fit" in the wheel spaces reasonably well. I was not sure how the size would work. If possible could we get a side view as I would like to see how they work in the space. While I like the wheels I do like the ones that looked more classic Italian ones that were circulated. Great to get some options.
a maserati compound compound car. $3600. needs RH head gasket. that is what I spent on the car to get running Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
$2,500 cannot remember anything about it Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sadly I expect that there are about 1,500 similar pictures out there! How many survivors are there really.
What a shame; metal must be paying off since 5000 lb cars. If you were closer would like these as I have four running and two parts cars left. Is one a Manual transmission?? I think shipping to Pinehurst-FT Bragg area of NC would be expensive? Mort
Attached are some pictures of my QPIII brake master and brake booster. I found it interesting how easy these items came out of the car! Steps were as follows: 1. Detach brake lines from brake master cylinder 2. Detach brake master cylinder from booster 3. Remove brake pedal stop from driver footwell 4. Disconnect brake pedal from brake booster rod 5. Remove booster nuts/washers from brake booster in driver footwell 6. Pull out booster from engine compartment I chose to leave the brake fluid reservoir attached to the brake master as you can see in the picture. There was no particular reason for this! I might have been better off removing it from the master cylinder before disconnecting the master cylinder from the booster. Care will need to be taken when removing the reservoir so as to not break the reservoir nipples ( the two plastic pieces that insert into the brake master). Note the distortion of the washer/grommet on the master cylinder end of the booster. I am determining whether to have both the booster and the master rebuilt (I have a quote of $500 for both - lifetime warranty). I'm not sure the booster really needs to be rebuilt. I probably should have checked if it holds a vacuum prior to disassembly from the car. Perhaps I can still test it on the bench. I also think I would be able to rebuild the master cylinder... I may take it apart and check the condition... If it is not to badly scored or pitted, I may rebuild it myself. If it looks rough, I may send it out to be re- sleeved. Any collective thoughts on this? Experience? Good rebuilders? Mike Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
All.. No responses as of yet regarding the brake master or booster from anyone. Does this mean that no one has had to do any of this work yet? I would be surprised at that... Perhaps hired mechanics have done the work, but it would be good to know.. There has to be experience out there somewhere... At any rate, I will forge ahead.. The attached pictures show the breakdown of the master, namely the guts of it.. Along with it you will see the reservoir nipples, along with the grommets for these nipples, where they attach to the master. To remove the reservoir, which can probably be done in the car, or out of the car. If out of the car, place the reservoir in a vise. Using a very long screwdriver or crowbar, place the tip of the tool between the nipples, resting on the brake master body. Holding the reservoir in its intended position, gently but evenly pry the reservoir off. If one nipple pops out first, be careful with the second. I understand these reservoirs are difficult to find.. After taking the master apart, I inspected my brake master body. It appears there are some pits inside the body. I can feel these with my fingertips, and I doubt honing will remove them sufficiently. I suspect it will need to be re-sleeved or a new brake master sourced. In the next few days, I will be removing the brake master and booster (?) from my Ghibli SS. If I am not mistaken, they may be very similar, if not identical, as both are Benditalia/ Bonaldi. Obviously, I will be inspected the master and booster and determine what will need to be done. Hopefully, some of these parts can be rebuilt vs. sourcing new ones. Again, any feedback, advice, availability of parts, potential rebuilders is appreciated. IVAN: I suspect you have quite a bit of knowledge with Ghibli brakes... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
