1984 400i window not working

Do you have power AFTER the switch?

The usual suspect is the switch... In this case a windows booster does help.

 

Is this under load? The internal resistance of the switch gets higher and most of the energy is disipated as heat. Easy to check: just feed the harness after the switch with 12v and see if power windows do work.

The other usual culprit is the thermal fuse that is bolted against the motor. When this one goes bad it just kicks-in even when the load is minimal.

Based on my own experience, the harness itself is quite beefy compared to what was made back then, not perfect, but 2.5mm2 of copper and the old-school thick insulation. So no need to remove the dashboard in order to check these. The anciliaries (spade connectors, thermal fuse, switches, fuse block) are another story.

 

The "what" is the easy part -- it's the connector for the RH door . The "where" is the tricky bit -- based on the harness diagram in the 400i SPC, my guess would be it is under the front scuttle on the chassis side of the RH door jam (if there is no obvious connector in the RH door jam) or maybe under the dash on the chassis side of the RH door jam. But there are some other preliminary things that you should do IMO (if you already have access to the RH window switch):

1. With everything plugged in, key "on", and actuating the RH window switch (raemin's point about voltage measurements only being valid under load is important), measure the voltage between the H (grey) wire at the RH window switch and the N (black) wire at the RH window switch = should be 12V.

2. With everything plugged in, key "on", and actuating the RH window switch, measure the voltage between the two V (green) wires at the RH window switch = should be +12V with the RH window switch in one direction and then -12V with the RH window switch in the other direction.

If you pass those two tests = you will need to go after that RH door connector and/or the window motor inside the RH door. If you don't pass those two tests = give a shout back.

 

Good day Jamie,

On the 365's the thermal switch is attached to the window motor body. If the motor stalls it draws a lot more current than it should and then the thermal switch opens. Typically it self resets. On the 365 the switch is in series with one of the motor leads and so even if it has failed you should see some voltage at the motor terminals. That said, you can easily check the window motor by disconnecting its two wires from the harness and connect one to ground and the other to +12V... reversing these connections will reverse the motor direction.

Cheers,

Sam

 

I'm on the hunt for a LH window motor as mine is shot and have tried the spare that I had with no joy.
Mine was full of brown! and the spare was an unknown quantity..

 

Connector is burried in the door between the mirror and the A pilar. From memory it is quite high, in the door (30cm above speaker?) , so you won't see it at first glance, but you can "grab it" if you pass your arm between the speaker and the door frame.

There is no common wire between the mirror and the window. This being said the mirror does require a ground.

 

Good day Simon,

Have you opened up the motor to determine or isolated why it is not working? I ask, as it could be as simple as the brushes (worn or stuck), heavily oxidized or debris filled commutator, etc. If the motor windings or commutator are worn or damaged, there are motor rebuilding shops that can easily remedy repair. Sadly, these shops are not as plentiful as years past, but they are around. Rewinding the motor or replacing the commutator is pretty routine for these shops and at the same time they would replace the bushings, etc ... and you would have a "new" motor when done. Alternatively, if you cannot find a suitable off the shelf replacement, you could use a 308 style motor and retrofit it in place of the original 365's motor. Check out my thread on refreshing my 365 window motors for some pics, etc:

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/365gt4-2-2-window-motor-refresh.551863/#post-145369490

Cheers,

Sam

 

Before taking the motor apart, just use a pair of jump wires from battery to the motor and see how it runs.

I found my issue was where the motor wires pass thru the door and/or the chassis. I believe there is a connector behind the plastic trim piece in the left side of the foot well.
Ken

 

G'day Sam,yep re opening up the one in the car(original) and it's rusty as buggery and unusable.
The spare is a different motor and won't work.

Simon.

 

I suspect the connector shown is the one that is in the dashboard (next to the A-pilar, above the glove-box). The wires for the courtesy lights are also routed here. Inside the door, the connectors are different. One round 4 wires connector for the mirror, no connector for the speakers, FastIn FastOn connectors for the rest.

There is no common ground between the power windows and the rest as the motors wires are either +/- or -/+, it's the window switch that toggle the ground on one wire or the other.

Best is to check for continuity between the cables that exit the toggle switch and the cable ends that reach the motor. If there is no continuity, before removing the complete dashboard, it's less work to remove the trims that are covering the side panel of the footwell (were there is a round vent), as these do give access to the part of the harness that gets into the door (subject to flex and tear as suggested by SouthJersey).

 

Motor is common with multiple Ferrari's and likely Alfa's or Fiat's. I know the F dealers carry the winder spool and coupling, so I suspect they will have the correct motor. Ken