1987 328 gts resurrection

I have tried propping the flap open slightly same / worse result. Also tried with the plug off. Same result. The car has not run since 2006. I’ve gone through the whole engine, timing belts, valve adjustment etc etc. compression numbers are good. One cylinder was a bit low, so i sprayed some wd40 and tested it again and it came up from 90 to 130. Like you said, it’s cold and been sitting for a long time. I don’t think compression is the issue. Also, filled each cylinder with marvel mystery at bottom dead center and let each one sit for 24 hours.

 

yes, the alarm and radio junk is all out of the car now. Everything is now back to original and checks out. It runs perfect for 2-3 seconds. Revs up and everything.

I’ll get a CIS fuel pressure tester and see what’s happening while cranking and running for that short time. Seems like the fuel pressure is bleeding off.
y

 

compression is as follows. This is cold and after sitting and not running for 20 years. As you can see, #1 came way up with just some wd40 in the cylinder and rechecking.

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Sometimes. Itll rev up no problem to 6k rpms. Sounds great. Then shuts off. Same result if I let it idle or wack the throttle. I get 3 seconds out of it

 

It’s going to be a few weeks before I can get back at it. Dropped the coils on the ground and broke one. Have to wait for the new one from superperformance. Also change the hoses at the radiator and get some coolant in it to eliminate that “possibility”

 

thanks for the info. Fuel pressure test will be first on the list. As for the throttle open, I would say yes, considering there was no intake on the motor at all.

 

Ok. Fuel pressure is 32 psi with the engine off, cold, key on, blue plug unplugged pump running. Steady. Plug it back in (pump off) goes up to 42 lbs. Start the engine, fuel pressure stays steady at 32 psi either at idle or revving it up. Once it dies after 3 seconds, back up to 42. Still won’t run for more than 3 seconds.

Made myself this adapter with a schrader valve brazed onto the banjo fitting so I have a place to take fuel pressure any time. Cleaned up the coil bracket and reinstalled all that. I’m stuck. Don’t know where to go from here.
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I doubt it. That's what its made for. Good suggestion though.

 

On second thought, I cant think of anything else starving this thing. I'll start there, try running it without the sock, then move on down the line. Runs like something that needs a good carb cleaning. Soon as you take it off choke it dies no matter how much fuel you give it. Seems once the accumulator gets exhausted, its starving. If that's how that even works. I don't know.

 

Drained the fuel, removed the sock, reinstalled the pickup tube with nothing on it, filled with gas; same result. Still won’t stay running. That’s one more thing eliminated.

 

Moved on to other things since I cannot figure out why it won’t run.

Connected all the cut wires at the two plugs under the dash by the drivers left knee. (Red and white plugs) there were several cut wires. Now, with the key off and out of the ignition, I have the oil pressure light on, the door buzzer going (door open or closed) and the tach pegged at 10k rpm and fluctuates with the scratchy sound of the door buzzer. Put the key in and turn to on position, tach goes to 0, door buzzer goes off. Car still doesn’t run more than 2-3 seconds.
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Video of issue above

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GFdKVcESfo5Artq49

 

Still cannot get the car to run so i have been working on rebuilding the broken switches and missing items in the center consol. I wanted to put this here for anyone doing a google search. The 328 GTS hazard switch nut and washer was impossible to locate so i went to ebay and bought one that looked exact. Usually thats a fail, but this time it worked out well!!! Below is what i bought. I guess the BMW E10 2002 shares a similar switch. Here are some before and after pics.

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Before. After to come later tonight. Still need to cut the ac switch post down so the knob will fit on. If anyone is looking for any small plastic parts like knobs and such, check out the Unobtanium. They’re awesome.
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After. Ashtray is blasted, waiting on prime paint and clear.
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Before I go gluing and screwing this thing back together, has there been any updates on these heater valves? Everything I search is from years ago. Hoping this $12 part has finally been reproduced and I don’t have to pay $400. I don’t want one I have to modify, and I don’t want a used one. Let me know! Part number 126324


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Thank you. Im going to try the screw solution before i cut it in half. We'll see how that works. But, 2 part high temp JB weld epoxy was the way i was leaning. Thanks again! Yours still not leaking?

 

HAHA got it. Cup under the valve, rags under the cam seals. Gotta love it! Thanks again.