1987 Testarossa suspension and brake refresh. TR #71387 | Page 5 | FerrariChat

1987 Testarossa suspension and brake refresh. TR #71387

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by kartboy1234, Mar 24, 2017.

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  1. mikkelgjersing

    mikkelgjersing Rookie

    Oct 26, 2013
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    Mikkel gjersing
    #101 mikkelgjersing, Jun 23, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  2. Veedub00

    Veedub00 F1 Rookie
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    #102 Veedub00, Jun 23, 2017
    can you tell us about the exhaust pipes coming out of the manifolds?
     
  3. mikkelgjersing

    mikkelgjersing Rookie

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    #103 mikkelgjersing, Jun 23, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  4. mikkelgjersing

    mikkelgjersing Rookie

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    Mikkel gjersing
    #104 mikkelgjersing, Jun 23, 2017
    It's a Capristo Twinsound
     
  5. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

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    #105 kartboy1234, Jun 24, 2017
    Now that is clean. I hope that mine will look that nice.
     
  6. mikkelgjersing

    mikkelgjersing Rookie

    Oct 26, 2013
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    Mikkel gjersing
    #106 mikkelgjersing, Jun 24, 2017
    I'm sure it will be. I love the color. What color is the interior?
     
  7. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

    Nov 10, 2014
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    Michael L
    #107 kartboy1234, Jul 22, 2017
    Update time:

    I picked up my A arms from my mechanic, Fast Cars Limited in Redondo Beach, they did a great job removing the bushings, powder coating, removing the bushings, repairing some issue on the A arms and installing the bushing I provided. They look great and now initial assembly can commence. The only cost issue with the A arms was that it was $1400 to do all that work.

    I have ordered new non yellow nylon lock nuts for the car. Once I get all of those parts then I will start putting things back together. I still have a ways to go, assemble shocks, finish painting some things, bleeding brakes ect. I'm excited because I can see the finish line, but I leave for a swedish vacation in three weeks. So I'll get as much done that I can.
     
  8. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

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    #108 kartboy1234, Jul 22, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  9. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

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    #109 kartboy1234, Sep 3, 2017
    Update. I have finally had time to work on the car. I went on a two week Sweden trip so I was a little preoccupied. But now I'm back and am motivated to finish the car. I had a show put my rear shocks together. They claimed they couldn't do the front because the springs are long and the shock is short. So I don't know if my shocks are broken and are really short or if the springs just really need to be compressed.

    So I was able to put together the rear suspension. Everything is in place except for the brake calipers. I need to make new hard lines so I'm holding off putting them on until I can make those. I had the brake booster rebuilt just to be sure it works. If I can get the front shocks put together this week and make some hard lines then I can finish the car this weekend. I'm pretty excited.

    I had some issues getting the a arms to fit with the new bushings. But with a rubber mallet and determination I was able to get them in place. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
     
  10. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    #110 ago car nut, Sep 4, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I replaced the rear suspension and shock bushings on my 1987 TR. I had to machine up many different mandrels to properly press the old bushings in and out. The suspension bolts were in very good shape with the plating not corroded. The reason my parking brake didn't work well was the lining on the right wheel was peeled off and in the bottom of drum. Cleaned up the inside of drum for parking brake. The disc pads and rotors are like new.
    Some of photos are sideways.
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  11. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

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    #111 kartboy1234, Sep 6, 2017
    You are lucky that you had the tools to press in the new bushings. I don't have a workshop, so I can't store a large press. Nice job with it.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
     
  12. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    #112 ago car nut, Sep 6, 2017
    I have a complete machine and fab shop in my garage. The amount of special tools and things I have to make to work on my TR is adding up. Good thing I work for free for myself!
    50 years of playing with all kind of cars and motorcycles.
     
  13. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

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    #113 kartboy1234, Sep 6, 2017
    Sounds like an awesome setup. I didn't want to risk damaging anything when removing the bushings, so I had my mechanic press them in.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
     
  14. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

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    #114 kartboy1234, Sep 14, 2017
    So I have hit an issue. The ball joint spacers in the front, I thought my alignment shop would put them in correctly, but they won't. Any idea what thickness I need on each side of the ball joints? Thank you
     
  15. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

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    #115 kartboy1234, Sep 14, 2017
    Of course once I ask, I find my notes on what I removed. I will put everything back the way it was unless anyone has advice?
     
  16. wda24729

    wda24729 Formula 3

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    #116 wda24729, Sep 18, 2017
    Do you mean the shims? When I did my 348 I measured what I took out and put back in, but once finished I did take it for full geometry set-up before driving any distance. Same applies to the shims between the arms and the chassis.

    Haven't got around to my TR yet, but if they are the same shims as the 348, I cut slots through each one to assist with inserting them, rather than having to take the bolts out each time (risk of damage to shiny plating and powder coat!)
     
  17. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

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    #117 kartboy1234, Sep 22, 2017
    Slots in the shims is a good idea. I will see if I can get an angle measurement on the upright to see if they are right. Both sides match

    Update, everything is on, new hard brake lines were made. Last weekend I started bleeding the brakes but it was taking way too long. So I will continue with it when I have time. I am very very close to driving it. I can't wait.
     
  18. lear60man

    lear60man Formula 3

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    #118 lear60man, Sep 22, 2017
    Harbor Freight has a one man bleeder that hooks up to your air compressor for $30ish. And it actually works really well. The supplied rubber that fits over the bleeder nipple is a great fit.

    Those Konis look amazing.
     
  19. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

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    #119 kartboy1234, Sep 22, 2017
    I should look into that. I had a coworker helping me, but the lines are taking a long time to get air out. So yea I should try power bleeding them. The konis turned out great, but when putting them together the front ones were scratched around the retaining ring, luckily my mechanic has the correct paint and touched them up.

    I can't wait to try real functioning brakes.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
     
  20. lear60man

    lear60man Formula 3

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    #120 lear60man, Sep 22, 2017
    I bled my clutch line in about a minute with this little thing. It has two parts: Part A) is a bottle with an on off valve and some support rings to keep it in place inside the hydraulic res. Fill it up with fluid, drop it in your res and open the valve. As the level drops, it automatically fills the res. Part B) is the paint gun looking thing that sucks the hyd nipple and stores the old fluid. It has a trigger holder so you can set it down and use both hands.

    Pro tip, with both hoods open, mark the full line with a sharpie on the fill bottle (part A) and position it so you can see it from the transmission through both windows. That way you will know how much fluid you are going through as it drops.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
     
  21. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

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    #121 kartboy1234, Sep 22, 2017
    Thanks for the tip. I had been looking at those but my coworker said he would help me manually do it. I'm thinking of picking one up anyway because it'll make things much quicker. And I can bleed other cars.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
     
  22. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #122 Melvok, Sep 23, 2017
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2017
    Can you not find out if Ferrari still may have oem master cilinder ?

    By-the-way: I am also a fan of your poject !

    Do have the parts powdercoated ! I had all parts of the 512tr done that way and it is simply better than paint imo... (and now I see that you did that too )

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  23. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

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    #123 turbo-joe, Sep 23, 2017
    I don´t like powder coating so much.
    when new made it is ok. but after a while when smal stones and other parts from the street touch those coating sometimes a part of this coating get damaged and then between the coating and the metal there comes water. this expierinece I did with motorcycle frames. I did 2, but never again I will do.
    if you power coat something where no small stones or split could come to it is ok, but no frame and no axle/stearing parts. when you paint this and you see something is not ok you just use some paint and fix it. when power coating it will not work this way
     
  24. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

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    #124 kartboy1234, Sep 24, 2017
    @Melvok I figured rebuilding would be cheaper than trying to find a new old stock part that may need rebuilding itself.

    I had everything powder coated because I figured it would last a bit longer than paint. The paint on the suspension components held up really well, so I'm hoping they don't get hit by too many rocks.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
     
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  25. kartboy1234

    kartboy1234 Formula Junior

    Nov 10, 2014
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    #125 kartboy1234, Oct 11, 2017
    Well good news. I drove the car this past weekend. Bled the brakes and took it for a spin. I have some rattling from the front and the brakes probably aren't 100% bled but it drove. Now time to put it back on the lift and check out the problems. Thank you everyone for following along on this long journey.

    Quick question, when you press the brake pedal with the engine running, does it drop about an inch before pressure starts? Does it take a lot of force to stop? I don't have a good baseline of how the car should feel. I may ask a family friend to let me try his car. Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
     
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