1988 328 GTS intermittent high idle issue | FerrariChat

1988 328 GTS intermittent high idle issue

Discussion in '308/328' started by JTD88328GTS, Jun 14, 2023.

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  1. JTD88328GTS

    JTD88328GTS Rookie

    Dec 23, 2022
    8
    Full Name:
    JTD328GTS
    Looking to Ferrari chat for assistance with a random/ intermittent issue with my 1988 Ferrari 328 GTS.

    I am a new Ferrari owner since December 2022. Yes, I have no doubt, it will be a learning experience.
    Prior to purchasing my Ferrari 328 GTS, I did obtain a thorough PPI from Automotive International- Charlotte. I spoke with Sean Smith numerous times during the PPI about the car- he stated it was a better than average 328, better than many he has evaluated and overall a very solid 328. The PPI highlighted it needed cam belt service, which I well knew needed replacement every 3 (+) years, A/C clutch not engaging. Which I shared with the seller, RK motors- Charlotte, whom told me it was a wiring issue they would repair prior to sale and commensurate with delivery of the vehicle. After purchase, prior to driving more than 10 miles- knowing timing belts needed replacing- I took my car to ***************** MAG for service. The complete cam timing belt service was completed, with me opting to replace the water pump as well * since you're in there* this repair totaled $5482.39- whew..! Service completed, I picked my "new" car on Saturday- Mar 04, 2022, A huge smile lit my face as I was driving home spirited, acceleration- shifting through the gated 5 speed, the sonorous, enticing, intoxicating sound of the 3.2 V-8 encouraging more and more..! 80, 90,120+ mph was exhilarating..! particularly with the targa top off, wind rushing past on 285 W to 75 N. The only thing that dimmed this exciting, exhilarating moment - alarmingly, I notice the accelerator seemed stuck..? while negotiating traffic, I took my foot off the accelerator and noticed the rpm stayed 3500+ rpm several occasions, this I found this extremely concerning.. I blipped the pedal several times thinking the cable was stuck, muck- grease stuck, or possible a mechanical issue ran thru my mind.. A third and fourth time I blipped the throttle and the rev's finally decreased. As I finished my ride home ( @ 28 mi ) the throttle idled high several more times at stop lights- an awful feeling settled in my gut.. mechanical issue on the first meaningful drive of my new Ferrari 328. A mechanical issue after it just came from repair at *****************. I do not recall it idling high prior to the cam belt service, but, to be clear I only drove it gently less than 10 miles knowing to needed service. I contacted merlin the following week and shared the issue after picking it up 3 days prior and scheduled to bring it in again to be diagnosed/ serviced high idle with driving. While in for high idle service, I was notified of a bad A/C system and quoted a new A/C system repair. This was a bit of an unexpected surprise..? I did want my Ferrari to run and function as it should, I authorized repair of the A/C ,as well as, to repair the high idle issue. Notified my car was complete, advised this repair $5508.70 was due- I arrived to pick it up and requested the mechanic that did the work sit with me for a short drive ride along. Toward the end of our brief ride the accelerator stuck again with high idle again after throttle body repair and A/C repair/replacement. He advised me when he got the car, he thought the throttle body linkage was little stiff, he found rust on main pivot, he cleaned it , greased it and reassembled it- ( only $436.00).
    I was a bit flummoxed at this point,,!! Way more than a good bit disappointed to again experience high idle after expert repair from *****************. Nonetheless, I just wished to take my car home and hoped perhaps, with additional driving the throttle might self correct..?
    So, long story short - my 328 which I am infatuated with when I drive it, it still intermittently idles high on frequent occasion when driving- I would gratefully welcome someone to share similar experience and/or the fix to this issue.. Thank You for your assistance..!!
     
  2. Cennzo

    Cennzo Karting

    Jan 29, 2020
    111
    Sausalito CA
    Full Name:
    Vince Dattoli
    If you have aftermarket floor mats you should check to see that it’s not sliding forward and pushing on the pedal …
     
    JTD88328GTS likes this.
  3. Sigmacars

    Sigmacars Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Jul 19, 2006
    1,220
    I had the same problem changed the TPS
    Switch and the problem is gone, search for TPS set up on here so you can test you switch I got a new one on e bay for $70.00
     
    JTD88328GTS likes this.
  4. JTD88328GTS

    JTD88328GTS Rookie

    Dec 23, 2022
    8
    Full Name:
    JTD328GTS
    TY for your thots Cenzo. yes, the floor mats are factory, indeed, I did check for mat encroachment.
     
    Cennzo likes this.
  5. JTD88328GTS

    JTD88328GTS Rookie

    Dec 23, 2022
    8
    Full Name:
    JTD328GTS
    TY Sigma, I have not checked personally the TPS, but, that does seem to make since- I would be curious if merlin checked my TPS..? good input, TY
     
  6. JTD88328GTS

    JTD88328GTS Rookie

    Dec 23, 2022
    8
    Full Name:
    JTD328GTS
    TY- no, they are factory mats. I did check for this mat issue, TY
     
  7. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,878
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Can't agree here -- a bad TPS will raise the warm idle to maybe 1300~1500 RPM, not 3500 RPM. 3500 RPM is a HUGE air leak (not a small change in idle ignition timing).

    You can easily test the TPS by just unplugging the TPS at warm idle (when it's at the proper 1000 RPM idle speed) -- if the idle RPM increases slightly when unplugged, and returns to normal when plugged back in = TPS OK.
     
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  8. Sigmacars

    Sigmacars Formula 3
    Silver Subscribed

    Jul 19, 2006
    1,220
    Ok just make sure you got below 10 ohms every time you get back to idle position, mine was 8 ohms mostly but sometimes I got 45 ohms this is when the idle went up to 1800-2000 rpm
     
  9. JTD88328GTS

    JTD88328GTS Rookie

    Dec 23, 2022
    8
    Full Name:
    JTD328GTS
    Thank You Steve, appreciate your comment. info: what I have noticed is when I start the car- it idles fine, with a nice low, pleasing Ferrari burble @ 900-1000 rpm'ish. what I have noticed is the high idle issue occurs after driving the car several miles, when the car is hot and seemingly when I am spirited driving 5000-6000+ rpm shifting.. hope this info helpful. I believe the high idle issue seems to occur when the vehicle is hot and when driving- if that makes sense..? TY Steve
     
  10. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,878
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Don't have much more to add, but 3500 RPM takes a lot of air entering the engine so I'd still treat that as the primary suspect. On a 328:

    Throttle Plate not closing properly (carpet, acc. cable, throttle plate shaft/mechanism hanging up, etc.),

    or the AAV doing something strange -- you can always physically "squish" one of the large air hoses of the AAV closed (simulating a properly closed warm AAV) to rule that in, or out, when the 3500 RPM idle occurs.
     
  11. Dr Tommy Cosgrove

    Dr Tommy Cosgrove Three Time F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    May 4, 2001
    36,468
    Birmingham, AL
    Full Name:
    Tommy
    Just for future reference and for others reading this - the wp comes off without touching the cam belts so it isn't something that really qualifies as a "while we are in there" service add on.

    Just one of my little soapboxes with these cars.
     
  12. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 1, 2005
    4,194
    Canada
    Some ideas:

    The AAV system may be the culprit. It is mounted under the coolant overflow tank, and responds to the coolant temperture (plus has an electrical heater based actuation at start-up) to give a high idle on start up, and a lower one once warmed up. It does this by having a little flap inside open and close off the amount of air going to the engine. This flap does not fully close or open, rather it is calibrated to this car (and calibrated differently for other makes that used it like eg. Porsche).

    If the spring inside that helps move the flap is broken, or the bimetal strip that responds to temperature is broken, you might get some odd airflow going on at odd times. It can be rebuilt, replacements are not available.

    Since your mechanic cleaned and greased the throttle body, that should rule out a throttle body sticking. You could still have the throttle cable binding, some Teflon lube shot down the cable carrier is worth trying. Otherwise might need to remove and inspect the throttle cable to see if it is frayed, and replace as appropriate.

    The throttle pedal itself pivots on two small roller bearings. The pedal assembly can easlily be removed, and the bearings cleaned and greased. Doubt this has been done before, so worth doing even if not the cause of the problem, and rules out any sticking caused right at the pedal.

    I am also thinking it may just be a carbonized failing O2 sensor. The Bosch item is readily available, and is an easy item to replace. It may be giving weird signals of fuel oxygen mixture to the cars fuel computer, causing your problem.

    You can go online to eg. Eurospares, and they have exploded parts diagrams which can help you understand the cars various systems.

    Hope this gives you some further ideas, no reason to not get your car running as intended.
     

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