Especially when compared to buying a new car. A rule of thumb is that a new car will depreciate by half its value every four years. So one could spend the same $50K on a new car, and in 8 years it will be worth $12,500, a loss of over $37K. If you buy right, a classic Ferrari won't cost as much over the same period of time. Of course, you can't use it as a daily driver either.
Congrats! In late '89 and early '90 328s, especially 89s were selling for really big bucks occassionally pushing 200K! And we thought the premiums for 360s and 430s were too much. Dave
Congrat!!! Welcome to the exclusive '89 club Don't forget to take and post pics of your car delivery.
I'm selling my black/black, 1986 328 GTB, 15,000 miles, 2 owners, $20,000 of receipts just over a year ago, perfect condition, needs nothing, and will need nothing for years. I've had offers in the low $40's, but hoping to get closer to $50k. I paid $57k in 2008, but as we all know "the market has changed" as has my financial status, so my loss to be sure, no matter what price I get for the car... : (
I say sell it for what you think it worths to you not someone think it worths to them. Eventually what bites you the most is how badly you need you to convert your Ferrari to cash.
Hang in there. I think you'll gt close to 50. There are buyers for GTBs and there are probably fewer than 10 in the country. Dave
Honestly, I can hold out for the right buyer, but just super bummed I have to sell... it's such a beautiful car, 1 of 5 black/black GTB's in the US and is going to be a car I know I will try to buy back later on in life as I spared no expense doing everything to it just a year ago. My mechanic has a buyer in mind right now and if it doesn't work out, I will put up on FerrariAds with photos. Thanks for the thoughts!
Hi All, So I started working on the car and I have a running issue that I need some input on. I have done the following to the car: Timing belts, Plugs,Oil & filter, Gear oil, New antifreeze, New brake fluid Misc fuel lines, alt,ac,wp belts,cleaned contacts in both dist caps front and rear deck prop rods drained fuel tanks, fuel filter, air filter. The car starts right up but response is very sluggish. No dead miss just runs like crap. I hear more exaust noise out of pass side pipe. More exaust psi coming out of pass side pipe also. Not sure if this is indicative of muffler design. Car does still have original cat but the pipes from either bank are common going into cat. Maybe I just need to drive the car a bit to get fresh fuel through the injectors? I did add Techron fuel conditioner to the new fuel. Any thoughts? Thanks Pete
It's not a true dual exhaust as you noted so you will get more exhaust out of one side but IIRC it is typically the driver's side. Dave
Can you describe your symptom a little more please? If it runs smoothly, but weakly, you should confirm if you have ignition spark present on both banks. If both banks are actually running, but the performance is way off, I'd worry about the cam timing . Did it run well before your major service work?
Cam timing is correct. Runs on both banks confirmed by pulling coil wire and firing engine on each bank. Car was started quickly before I got the car but not for long. Before that car had not run in about 10 years. The guy that started the car did confirm that car ran like crap. At idle lots of gurgling and rough running but not a dead miss. When hitting gas it has a hesitation like a bad acc pump in a carb. Gonna take a short ride in the car and see what happens. Thanks Pete
So I started the car again from a cold start. When cold there is just about no throttle response and smells very rich. As engine warms I get more and more throttle response. Leaky cold start valve?
Drove the car and its smooth under a load but wont rev over 5500. Feels like its dead on 1 bank. What I dont get is that I pulled the coil wires one at a time and it fired on both banks. I dont get it. Pete
Have to say that you are very lucky if you don't have any fuel system problems after 10 years of disuse -- K/KE-Jet doesn't keep well on the shelf If you can confirm that both banks do have the ignition working on both banks at high RPM (a cap/rotor/button problem could work better at low RPM vs high RPM), one other thing to check is that the ignition advance is working as it should at high RPM. The MicroPlex ECU has a better reliabilty record than the earlier DigiPlex ECUs, but it could still be bad -- of course, the easiest thing to check is that the vacuum line going to the MicroPlex ECU is intact and actually placing intake vacuum on the fitting of the MicroPlex ECU. Good Hunting!
Thanks Steve where is the microplex ecu located. Is there any way to troubleshoot it. What dies in the fuel system after sitting? Thanks Pete
The MicroPlex ECU is located on the underside of a panel on the LH side of your rear trunk floor as shown in this jpeg (which also shows the small vacuum line): Image Unavailable, Please Login (After determining that there is vacuum present on the small vacuum line) The first troubleshooting test is to just use a timing light and measure the ignition advance using the marks on your flywheel with the vacuum line unplugged -- there should be two marks labeled "A5" on your flywheel (corresponding to 28 deg BTDC), one for cyl #1 and one for cyl #5, that should be under the flywheel pointer when the engine is at 5000 RPM (it helps to find these A5 marks beforehand and highlight them with a dab of paint or something). Then (if it's working), with the vacuum hose connected, you should get even more advance at 5000 RPM (and light engine load). The problem with storing the K/KE-Jet system is that there are many very small clearances/openings and close-fitting parts inside the fuel distributor that can be blocked and/or fouled -- either directly by fuel varnish forming there during storage, or by pieces of fuel varnish that form elsewhere during storage (downstream of the fuel filter) and then break-off when brought back to life and block these small openings. Your report that things are "smooth" is a good sign as any trouble here would usually only take out an individual cylinder, or two, and be felt as a "miss".
I neglected to mention the other symptom especially when cold is lots of popping back into the plenum. Doesnt really happen when warm.
The Air-Fuel ratio on your model for cold vs warm running is controlled by a themo-mechanical "computer" (the Warm-Up Regulator) which changes the control pressure used by the fuel distributor. If the cold running is poor, it's best to have the cold control pressure (and the warm control pressure) verified as being OK.
