K8nd of looks l8ke a gun metal grey but has a goldish or bronze tinge
Thanks Grant, the subframe is original. It’s a special coating and I haven’t seen a repainted one that looks correct. From what I can tell it’s red underneath and top coated in a Dinitrol type product that is not straight black but has a dark brown color. I would like to replicate this coating one day. Will report back if I find the correct type.
You can still buy Dinitrol. I purchased a case from Europe when I had light restoration work done on the underside of my 328. Correct, they have a couple options, but it’s the brownish caramel version that Ferrari used. While I’m very certain of its overall use and application on the 328, I’m not clear how it was used on the 355, if at all. https://www.dinitroldirect.com/ Product code is #3125 HS (dark brown)
While I've seen that bronze / brown / rust color tone before on sub frames, I often wonder if it's a breakdown of the coating from cleaning or cleaning products. Here are photos of my very early 95 and my 98, both original and the color is black. It's rather amazing though the variation of black. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
You may be right, Dave. I actually have seen no evidence of Dinitrol application on my 355, but again, it’s a 99. The featured car in this thread is a 95 and it wouldn’t surprise me if Ferrari was still using it on certain area that year. As I said before, my 328 is heavily covered with it, all throughout the underside, the wheel wells and overspray in the engine bay as well as tree front boot inner surrounds.
I'm not familiar with that product, first time I ever heard of it was from you, Jeff. Makes sense. But, the first photo I posted was an early 95 and the 95 I sold was the 15th to come to North America and it was the same. But, with Ferrari, you just never know
This is what Dinitrol (aka, Dinol) looks like on an original factory correct 328. It’s sticky and tacky to the touch. Many have had it removed over the years (328’s, 308’s, 288’s, F40’s, TR’s). It was sprayed as an anti corrosion material. I’m not exactly certain when they stopped this practice. Possibly with the 348 or the very beginning of 355 production. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
It doesn’t look like that’s the product, used on the subframe but I’m thinking it might be something similar, as you’d want some sort of anti corrosion coating on it. Because the subframe is first painted body colour and then top coated, makes me think other than panting it black it’s there for corrosion protection, there are runs in the engine bay too.
Elliott, I’ve been slowly reading and enjoying this entire forum thread. The work you’ve done is amazing and an inspiration to me, I’ve learned a great deal from you along the way. On page 30 today, interested in the evaporator lid actuator as I’m suspecting I have a stripped gear, great information. If you could pass along you thoughts on where I might locate a replacement shroud that covers the unit, (evaporator air box), as you obtained, it would be most appreciated. ‘98 F355 gts, here....Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words. I kind of cheated with finding a replacement shroud, I bought another F355 and swapped mine for it before selling it. Mine was fine but the one I swapped it for was better. I would look for an evaporator unit being sold with a wrecker and ask if they would separate the shroud and sell it to you.
Some updates (long overdue). Completed an annual service and dropped the transmission fluid, and after testing out 3 different fluids this is by far the best. It is the OEM spec transaxle oil. I had to buy it in a 20L drum as it is not stocked in smaller quantities. The difference this fluid made is amazing, buttery smooth even from cold. With the previous Liquid Moly it was not great when cold and second gear was not the best on cold starts, this is smooth from the first shift! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
One thing that was bugging me were the incorrect acorn nuts I had used to replace the original ones which looked very old and tarnished. Ricambi and Superformance dont stock the correct type so I managed to track down some and replaced them all with the exact OEM type nut. Looks a lot better! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Something I had wanted to do for ages was a full deep carpet shampoo and extraction. I purchased a professional Karcher carpet cleaner for the job. Removed most of the interior to clean every nook and cranny. The results are very good. The contaminated soapy water was back after the car was vacuumed! I also detailed the pedal box area, and fitted the NOS RHD F355 floor mats I had managed to find. While the seats were out I treated all the leather to the Leatherique 2 stage process, and refinished the seat belt receptacles to bring them back to a new state. Really happy with how the car turned out after this effort. Looks and smells great! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Are the new ones nyloc, Elliott? Mind telling us where you got them? I've seen regular acorn nuts at automotive stores like Repco, but they are not self-locking. Thanks!
Nyloc yes as per factory. I will sort you out with some for your car. Your welcome to come past or pick up next week at concours.
Started on my engine out as it has been 4.5 years since the last one. Although I did a very comprehensive major last time with an experienced technician, with new knowledge and more experience I aim to do all the items I missed last time or could improve upon. The car was running ok, but on cold start there was an annoying rattle, (believed to be failed belt hydraulic tensioner) and the alternator belt was still wearing uneven despite replacing it since the engine out. I also wanted to address the cam cover leaks and do a compression and leak down test while the engine was out. I'm doing all the work myself with exception to specialist work where I engage a trusted source to assist. This time I won’t have any time constraints and can take the time to get everything as I want it. The engine out service is still on going and I will update this thread as it progresses. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Engine removed after compression test. Torn CV boot - these were replaced at the last service, I don’t believe they fit as good as the OEM ones or are of the same quality. LHS water radiator removed with A/C condenser. I had previously replaced the RHS water radiator with an alloy one and now is the time to tend to the LHS whilst engine is out and a/c had been degassed. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Engine out, 1-4 bank had a collapsed hydraulic tensioner belt would be loose but tighten up with a few rotations on the crank. This I expect to be the noise on cold starts. I will be replacing both in this service anyway. The alternator belt was fraying - looks like an alignment issue due to the belt tensioner pulley being not exactly level. A couple of vacuum lines on the intake plenum are frayed and need to be replaced they look NLA so I will attempt to source similar colour and type. I will also reboot the entire engine wiring loom in this service repairing all the 2 and 3 pin Bosch connectors with fresh OEM type boots. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login