1998 550 Maranello "sorting" thread--DIY | Page 13 | FerrariChat

1998 550 Maranello "sorting" thread--DIY

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by moorfan, Aug 15, 2011.

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  1. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
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    Pete
    Sark that is correct....but also you can look for the assembly marks.
    Torque for the torsion damper is listed at 216 Nm but there was no way I was able to apply that by hand. I used the impact gun.
     
  2. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Aug 10, 2002
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    Marks line up. Isn't that interesting?
     
  3. 360modena2003

    360modena2003 Formula 3

    Jul 11, 2009
    2,437
    Pete:

    Why didnt you use the assembly marks to begin with, are they known to be off or you just wanted to check?

    Are they also marks marking TDC and the cam drive gears?



     
  4. fou

    fou Formula 3

    Feb 1, 2007
    2,232
    Central Virginia
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    Call me the breeze
    OK, here is where I show i am a complete idiot.

    Firstly Pete, thanks for letting me come over the other day. You really do some great work, but: What are the yellow and red marks in the pictures? I ask you guys not to laugh at me, but what are those marks, and what purpose do they serve? Thank you if your reply does not make me feel so stupid.
     
  5. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
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    Pete
    #305 moorfan, Oct 23, 2011
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2011
    Carl...I figured you'd have a field day with that one! :)

    360, it has been determined through many years of experience on the part of others that the marks on the cams are "assembly" marks but not necessarily "timing" marks. In some cars the assembly marks represent correct timing, and in some they don't.

    It was my job this time around to determine which car *mine* is so that in the future I may not have to do this endeavor every time. As you can see my marks don't all "exactly" line up, or maybe you can't because my photo isn't very good :-( One mm of the marks being off probably translates to a few degrees of timing and I'm told that makes a difference. The difference between an "average" 550 and a "rocket" 550 seems to be in the few degrees of timing you get out of being as perfect as possible.

    Wayne, the paint is just to signify bolts that I have torqued. After a while you forget which bolts you have torqued and which ones you have yet to torque. The red marks on my camshafts were present when I opened the car up, and I'm wondering if they come from the factory ("N" for intake cam, "X" for exhaust) I marked the cam cogs so that if the belt ever jumps a tooth I will know just by looking. Bradan has published a photo of a 550 they opened up and found a jumped belt.
     
  6. BRADAN

    BRADAN Two Time F1 World Champ
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    The only time I caught a motor that didn't line up was a Mondial 3.2.
     
  7. 360modena2003

    360modena2003 Formula 3

    Jul 11, 2009
    2,437
    So does mean that the assembly marks can in fact be used?

    How many sets of marks are there?

    Can the entire engine be "timed" with the assembly marks? (camshaft, and crankshaft gears)?
     
  8. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

    Jan 3, 2004
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    Depends on if you are happy with "Consumer Acceptable". The WSM gives a procedure to do it properly, I doubt they were just looking to fill up white space on a page.
     
  9. vinuneuro

    vinuneuro F1 Rookie

    May 6, 2007
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    Vig
    Was the manufacturing tolerance just not there for the assembly marks to also double for timing and a single cam/gear dowel slot?
     
  10. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

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    #310 davehelms, Oct 25, 2011
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2011
    It is my theory that the "Cam Marks" were stamped when the blanks were still in a rough forged condition. Vig, to get the performance these engines give and still meet tough emissions standards, everything must be Perfect, close wont do.

    I think the rough forged blanks were set in a machine where an indicator could find what was the center of the rough lobe and then stamped. The blanks were then put in the lobe grinder with this stamp as an index mark and then the cams finish machined. It is obvious that this mark was made Prior to heat treat and Parkerizing as it is of the same color and texture as the rough shaft itself. The stamps on the rear of the cams were made after the engine was timed but those look like they were done with a Battle Axe and are impossible to match accurately.

    The intent is, and always has been, to have a mark that was close enough to allow assembly without bending the valves. I used to rate the cars as either a Mutt, OK or a Rocket when I would do the Pre Delivery Check test drives prior to an owner getting a new car, noting this in the cars file. One of my tests was if I could launch my Service Manager into the back of the seat with the 550/575's, while accelerating down the on ramp. IF I could firmly plant him in the seat it was "OK". If I slammed him into the seat and had him grabbing for the door handle... It gained Rocket status. Much can be learned when one has the opportunity to drive multiple examples of the same model in a given week. The difference.... Cam Timing. Of the engines sitting outside the dyno cells at the factory, the ones that did not pass, a few had leaks but the majority failed to meet the 'acceptable performance range' and had to go back and get "Re Timed".

    For many... Close is good enough. Most often because they never had the opportunity to feel what "Exact" felt like. I liken this to FBB doing the blind GCK testing. I purposely shorted him the second stage of the kit because I wanted to know if there were enough subtle changes to justify the extra expense of offering it. A great car with no problems from the start...... yet a notable seat of the pants change with 'stage one'.... and again with 'stage two'....Opps, where did that come from?! You don't know what you are missing until you feel it. What does a Blueprinted engine with perfect timing "Feel like"? There is always a chance the engine timing is spot on with all 4 cams BUT as Pete has shown, only one of 4 cams is "exactly on the marks". You must visualize it from two different angles. Get the timing on ONE bank within spec, operating exactly like it was designed to and within the spec range... Great, that was "easy" but the work has only started. Matching the second bank to EXACTLY the same as the first bank is where the hard work is. Short of that you end up with one bank making all the power and the second going along for the ride. You have "spec" and then you have "match" OR... you have line up the marks, a crap shoot at best.

    I suspect Pete will experience what I am speaking about BUT can he accurately express it in words that make sense to us? Doubtful, my Beta Testers have not been able to give me a single sentence description of the results. Pete did too many things at the same time to be able to identify what his results are primarily from but.... my bet is there will be smiles involved! What else matters?
     
  11. BRADAN

    BRADAN Two Time F1 World Champ
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    We use the marks as a base to reassemble the motor off of. Even though most times it all ends up lining up you still have to go through the process to verify. Never assume, see it with your own eyes.
     
  12. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

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    For the sake of discussion I just measured the F40 engine I am currectly cam timing. Leading edge of the cam mark and the leading edge of the cap mark.... trailing edge of the cam mark and the trailing edge of the cap mark.... 15 crankshaft degrees.

    Take a few degrees off of either side and then it can be stated "There is a 11 crankshaft degree range where the marks 'Line Up'". Good enough for Horse Shoes....
     
  13. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    That is believeable. On another thread I did the math on a 25mm and 36mm diameter shaft and 1mm wide cam scribe would yield 4* and 3* per line width. So what you say jives.
     
  14. dersark_painclinic

    dersark_painclinic Formula Junior

    Mar 8, 2005
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    Pete, anxiously waiting for your posts. Sark
     
  15. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
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    #315 moorfan, Oct 29, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Sark, I missed you too buddy!

    I was just getting ready to post when you did the same.

    I've been out of town the last 5 days or so and am leaving again tomorrow, but did find some time to work on the 550. I replaced both cam covers and torqued them in place, remembering that the two throttle cable holders on the 7-12 bank have bolts that go through the cam cover as well. (Photo 1)

    Timing belts being finished, I buttoned up the timing covers, torquing each bolt to 10 Nm. (Photo 2) Remember to do this prior to putting on the auxiliary belts. A few people have written me asking what I set the timing belts to. I previously stated I would not reveal that, not only because I didn't want to be responsible for any problems that occurred but also because I feel that some of the information I used to help me decide is proprietary information of the experts who gave it to me. I don't want to break confidence or reveal someone else's "trade secrets".

    Photo 3 shows the auxiliary belts going back on. Reassembling the pulleys and tensioners for this part was a snap. The 575 WSM numbers for these belts is 160-170 Hz tension on the alternator/AC belt and 120-130 Hz for the power steering/waterpump belt. I set the belts to just over these tensions by a few Hz to allow for stretch and torqued all bolts holding the various pulleys to 59 Nm.

    All belt covers are now back on and I can move on to replacing the coolant hoses, pressure testing the coolant system BEFORE the intake manifold goes back on, and then replacing it and the rest of the "stuff". I'm hoping to be able to fire this thing up in the next week or so. (Photo 4)
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  16. dersark_painclinic

    dersark_painclinic Formula Junior

    Mar 8, 2005
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    Pete, nice to see you back. I just found out today some oil dripping from bottom of right timming belt cover, asumming comes from cam seal. So I am wondering I should go head and follow your step by step work or get dealer to do the work. Sark
     
  17. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
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    Central Virginia
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    Pete
    Sark,
    I would definitely do something soon. Definitely don't want petroleum products on those timing belts!
     
  18. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Pete,

    The oil vapor control system is quite a kluge of weird plumbing. One of these days I would like to find a way to clean that up. I bet John would be all over that too.
     
  19. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
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    I'm on it. (In between a few other things) I've got a blowby tank that I intended to cut up this last time home, but I didn't get to it. I suspect there's not much inside, as the blowby system really doesn't seem to work that well. My intake always has pooled oil in it when I open it up, as did Pete's, IIRC.
     
  20. davehelms

    davehelms F1 Rookie

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    Last week I got a request to make a custom size of the SRI oil return hose we make for the oil drain backs on other models. If you get a chance, get me the ID's of the hose required for the 550's. I remember having to cut the crimps on the cam cover breather to replace those hoses in the past, but I do not have a late 12 cylinder in the shop at this time. If I am making one new size, might as well do a few new sizes when I meet with the engineers next week.
     
  21. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    I'm on it! I'll email you some pictures with measurements.
     
  22. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
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    Pete
    #322 moorfan, Nov 1, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Reassembly of the 550 engine continues.
    All the plugs and wires are back in place. NGK iridium plugs were used here. I can't seem to stomach putting Champion plugs back in. Sorry Champion...that may be unfair.

    Photo 1 shows the reassembled cooling system with the SRI hoses in place. I pressure checked the system to 12 PSI looking for leaks and found none.

    Now I am going to fill the cooling system with the UView Airlift negative pressure fill system. I have read that the better way to fill a system is by this method. Step one is to set the interior temp controls to heat. My system has previously been drained bone dry to replace everything.

    The Airlift system has a coupling that fits into the coolant expansion tank (Photo 2) On this coupling is a pressure gauge and a ball valve that connects to a venturi attachment. You connect your air compressor (at least 90psi) to the silver nipple in the photo, and at that point the air bleeding out of the compressor creates a negative pressure in the system.

    Once the system reaches 26 on the gauge (which is in the "green" zone), you close the valve and disconnect the shop air and venturi. In a system with no leaks the negative pressure will hold, as evidenced by the collapsed hoses and the steady reading on the gauge (Photo 3)

    At this point you attach in place of the venturi the fill tube, which you drop into a bucket of 50/50 mix of coolant/distilled H20. The cooling system allegedly holds 4.18 gallons of fluid. Once the nozzle is submerged in the fluid (Photo 4) you open the ball valve at the gauge and the negative pressure sucks coolant into the system. It is really a nice system and works very quickly and cleanly; it's quite nice to watch the hoses slowly reexpanding. Always keep the filling port submerged as you don't want to suck air into the system.

    Once the system is full the gauge will read zero and you can disconnect everything. My coolant tank was filled up to the neck and when I squeezed the main hoses from the radiator you could see the level in the coolant tank jump up and down. I then opened the bleed screw on the thermostat housing and bled any air out of that valve. Once liquid came out, I closed it up.
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  23. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
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    Pete
    #323 moorfan, Nov 1, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Reassembly of the intake manifold/fuel injector rails.

    Note the high temp SRI gold fuel injector harnesses. These harnesses make the install a bit more challenging, as the shrinks around the clips are quite stiff and somewhat difficult to get on the injectors. The answer was to mount the injectors in the rails with the clips that hold them on, attach the harness clips, and then slowly work the entire thing down into the ports.
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  24. 12659

    12659 Formula Junior

    Oct 6, 2005
    349
    Seattle WA. USA
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    mark
    Hey Pete:

    I've been following for some time, exceptional work! One question: The paint color of the intake manifold appears to be more pure silver than the original color, which is an "off silver".

    Cheers

    Mark
     
  25. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
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    Pete
    Mark,
    That is correct. It is difficult to tell exactly what silver was used originally because it seems everyone's manifold has yellowed a bit and gotten a bit dirty over time. The number of high heat silvers on the market is limited...in addition, in a prior post I mentioned the difficulty in getting ANY high temp wrinkle silver in the US. Just not available.

    I just overlayed the original OEM wrinkle finish with cast aluminum high temp paint, and decided that would be good enough for me.
     

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