1998 550 Maranello "sorting" thread--DIY | Page 22 | FerrariChat
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1998 550 Maranello "sorting" thread--DIY

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by moorfan, Aug 15, 2011.

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  1. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #526 fatbillybob, Apr 27, 2012
    I always cheat. I use a gloved hand with hondabond in it and I run it over the gasket very very thin like you would gel your hair. That makes for no leaks. I started that in my 308 days when I bought cheap repro gaskets instead of the pretty ferrari ones with the red gaskets on them.
     
  2. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #527 moorfan, Apr 28, 2012
    Yeah man but it WAS one of those pretty Ferrari ones with the red gasket seal. Thought it would be enough. Lesson learned. Minor issue though....:)
     
  3. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
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    #528 Cribbj, Apr 28, 2012
    Pete, mine weeps there too, and I'll bet FBB's, Ferraridriver's, Barry's and many others' 550's do as well. A friend & trusted tech advised that nearly all the 550's he's seen have that leak, regardless of the gasketing. Ferrari must have designed & built them that way :)

    Don't know if the 575's leak or not?
     
  4. ferraridriver

    ferraridriver F1 Rookie

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    #529 ferraridriver, Apr 28, 2012
    That weeping is a designed in feature to help boost future alternator sales
     
  5. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
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    #530 Cribbj, Apr 28, 2012
    Dave, I think that feature comes from the cr*p seal in the A/C compressor that allows the system to puke its charge out annually, immersing the alternator in oil and causing it to act weird.....

    The weepy timing cover, I think, is designed to coat the oil pressure sender in oil, thereby attracting more & more road crud, until the contacts are well and truly fouled, which then causes the oil pressure gauge to bounce around from 0 to 150, and the owner's blood pressure to do the same.
     
  6. wbklink

    wbklink F1 Rookie

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    #531 wbklink, Apr 29, 2012
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2012
    John, Mine is just fine no weeps.

    40k

    lucky me,

    Bill
     
  7. Trabots

    Trabots Formula Junior

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    #532 Trabots, Apr 29, 2012
    my 575 has 36k miles with zero leaks
     
  8. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #533 moorfan, Sep 30, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    So it has been a while...I hope everyone is enjoying their cars!

    My Maranello is running quite well, although there are a few little "issues" that I intend to work on this fall/winter as a followup to this thread.

    First, I will document a yearly service.

    Secondly, I noticed recently that the heater in the car doesn't really work worth a damn, in addition, there is a small coolant leak around the back of bank 7-12 near the piping for the ac/heating system. I'm suspecting that the el cheapo pump in the passenger wheelwell that circulates coolant through the evap for heat is faulty, as a very similar appearing pump in my old AMG went bad also! We will see what the actual issue is.

    Thirdly, I will try to track down a suspension noise in the left front of my car that is confounding me. Can't decide what it is...ball joints appear tight and suspension bushings were greased at last service. Maybe lower tie rods.

    As for now, out for a fast drive!
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  9. JazzyO

    JazzyO F1 World Champ

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    #534 JazzyO, Oct 3, 2012
    Yes, my windows have both been adjusted, driver's door twice already in the 5 years that I have owned her. They need doing again fairly soon.


    Onno
     
  10. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #535 moorfan, Nov 1, 2012
    Hello again Fchatters. I have now taken the 550 off the road for a few weeks to perform some work on it now that the season is coming to a close. Well, to be honest the season never really ends here in Virginia, as I intend on driving throughout the winter on good days.
    I have had a good season of driving, not having had to address any issues during the season. The car has run magnificently well.

    In a previous post I mentioned a few issues:
    1. Coolant leak. I tracked this coolant leak down to the very large hose under the intake plenum that I had previously replaced with the SRI hose. The hose is fine, but it appears that the hose clamp had loosened itself a bit, and was dripping onto the valley floor below. This, combined with the natural slope of the engine, caused it to drip through the valley and come down on the back side. I tightened up these clamps all around and found a few more loose.

    2. Heater not working. It works, I just didn't know how to work it properly. I read the manual to educate myself. :)


    So now, I am planning to perform several services to repair little issues that I have noticed while putting approximately 1200 miles on the car this season, in addition to a standard yearly service of engine oil, gear oil, filter check, etc.

    First up is removal of all four shock assemblies to have the mountings rebuilt by FerrariDriver Dave, as well as an inspection of the front suspension for sources of a thunking sound from the front end when I slow or turn the car. See next post!!!
     
  11. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #536 moorfan, Nov 1, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Many thanks to FerrariDriver Dave for his advice on how to complete this job. He has previously detailed in other threads why the shock mounts need rebuilding in the 550.

    Step one: raise the front end of the car and remove the front wheels. This is easily achieved with an impact driver and a 22mm socket (factory bolts).

    Step two: Remove the four bolts (two on each side) that hold the stabilizer bar bushings to the car body. I previously detailed this earlier in this thread. The bolts are 13mm and access to the head of each bolt is GREATLY facilitated by removing the front wheels. Once these four bolts are undone the stabilizer bar will tilt downward from its mounts, pivoting on the tie rods. Upon doing that I noticed a similar noise to what I was hearing, which appears to be thunking of the tie rods as the balls rotate in their sockets.

    Step three: Not necessary for front shock removal per se but because I'm also investigating I decided to remove the stabilizer bar completely by removing each upper tie rod bolt from the suspension assembly, allowing the bar to be completely removed from the assembly with the tie rods still attached. Achieving this requires the removal of one 19mm bolt on each upper tie rod end (Photo 1). The photo shows the location of that bolt with the bar already removed.

    Step four: Remove the mass airflow sensor, and the curved tubing that leads to each throttle body, taking care to remove the connectors carefully and not damage the MAF sensor housing. You do NOT need to remove the air filter boxes, as stated in the WSM. Now you will have clear access to the upper mounting of the shock assembly and the associated actuator (Photo 2)

    Step five: Remove the ring clip that holds the actuator in place gently with a pick tool (Photo 3). The actuator just lifts right off and can go on in any orientation apparently, so no need to remember how it goes back. :)

    Step six: Once the actuator is off, remove the four 13mm bolts that hold the upper part of the shock assembly to the chassis. The shock assembly will sink a little bit with the downward drop of the control arms after the bolts are disconnected but this is no big deal. (Photo 4)
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  12. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #537 moorfan, Nov 1, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Step seven: You will now see that from the wheel well the shock assembly has sunken a little as the control arms have drooped. The brake disc does not yet need to be supported from underneath, so no worries (Photo 1)

    Step eight: Remove the 19mm bolt at the bottom of the shock assembly that threads through the bottom of the shock. Note the orientation and position of the washers that come off when the bolt is removed. There was only one washer on each side for me (Photo 2)

    Step nine: After placing a soft support under the brake disc to prevent it from clanging down, remove the two 13mm bolts that hold the upper control arm to the upper ball joint assembly (Photo 3).

    Step ten: Once the upper ball joint bolts are removed, the brake disc/caliper assembly still connected to the lower control arm via the lower ball joint should be lowered onto the support, and once it is down you can lift the upper control arm upward and guide the shock assembly out.

    With the shock assembly out, I was able to closely inspect my upper ball joint. The boot was slit and there was grease coming out (Photo 4) I am also able to lift the control arms up and down and note that the suspension bushings for the upper and lower control arms make no noise and rotate very smoothly. No abnormal friction. Therefore, I will not replace the bushings at this time, being that they do not appear degraded either.
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  13. rustybits

    rustybits F1 Rookie
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    #538 rustybits, Nov 1, 2012
    Nice write up and fantastic photos. Good job!
     
  14. ferraridriver

    ferraridriver F1 Rookie

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    #539 ferraridriver, Nov 1, 2012
    As usual a very nice write up.

    Just a couple of things, regarding the spring clips holding the actuators, you can reach down and separate the ends of the clips with your fingers, then just push the clip on down over the cup. This way the clip doesn't get lost and its right there when you reassemble the actuator. On reassembly put the spring clip back in its slots, the actuator will snap in when pushed down.

    I suspect Pete wanted to separate the upper control arm from the ball joint to inspect it but that step is not necessary. With the suspension in full droop (sway bar disengaged) you can just barely wiggle the shock/spring out the bottom.
     
  15. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #540 moorfan, Nov 1, 2012
    Dave, excellent point. The WSM states you should unbolt that upper ball joint to lift the control arm for shock removal but you don't HAVE to. Now my mission is to get the damn ball joint out....won't dislodge from the hub holder, even with a hammer. So much for using a "plastic hammer" a la WSM.

    Regards,
    Pete
     
  16. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #541 fatbillybob, Nov 1, 2012

    Pete,

    A couple of notes. First I noticed that you do not have the cool coil on plug set-up that John and I think Dave have. Are you interested in doing that? I have an interest and would definately do it with you. There are some threads John did that outline parts and proceedures and we could ask John if we mess up. COP's are a nice winter project.

    Second, I'm really paranoid. Those small 13mm nuts are all that hold the upper balljoint on. Just because I broke that seal I replaced with new longer 10.9 bolts and new 10.9 nylocks and I drilled them and wired them. I race and stuff comes off and I have been on track at high speed in the 550 on a casual trackday. Loosing a BJ is not pretty.

    Third, my old 2000 550 also has very smooth functioning A-arms. In fact too smooth. 100% of the rubber bushings I have seen on all cars have stichion that prevents free movement. As a winter project I plan to change these bushings. I think that if they move easy as rubber bushings in your hand they will yield greatly under 1000lbs per corner and lack control of the control arm. You might be getting noise from bad bushings too. If they were delrin bushings then free movement is expected. I might go Delrin because I suspect those oem bushings are costly. There is a superformance non-oem solution for cheap but there are no specs for OEM vs. aftermarket bushing durometer. Maserati source on ebay had a 550 kit that he sold me but took back because too many parts did not fit. He must have gone to the fiat parts bin. But in his original 550 kit the upper BJ's and many of the bushings did fit but again unknown durometer. So he might be a possible source. He was a very nice guy.
     
  17. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #542 moorfan, Nov 1, 2012
    Carl,
    I'd be interested in hearing about that coil setup, although I want something that will work reliably.
    Regarding the 10.9 bolts, I think that is an excellent idea. Where did you get yours? I find lots of 12's and 14's but no 13's.

    Thanks,
    Pete
     
  18. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #543 fatbillybob, Nov 1, 2012
    IIRC they are standard metric 10.9 8x1.25x35mm. If you don't have them locally I can look at my stock and just send you some. I'll check on the size tomorrow.

    john has the cop setup nailed. It is cheaper and works better than Ferrari. Ferrari switched the 575 to this. I was too lazy to design the cop setup and just rebuilt my wire set from kingborne wireworks parts. Now that john has run them for quite some time I have no excuse just too lazy to implement. If I had encouragement....it would be a nice winter enhancement.
     
  19. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
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    #544 Cribbj, Nov 1, 2012
    Carl, thanks for the kind words - how much more encouragement do you want/need? Promise me a free dinner and ply me with Two Buck Chuck like Dave did, and I might just fly out & help you install it :)

    Pete, the system is now on 5-6 550's, including one in the UK that sees track time, and I've recently had requests for systems from several 456 owners, so I'll probably put the first one on a 456 next month. So far everyone is well pleased and most owners feel the engine makes more power and runs smoother (their words, not mine). Next I'm hoping to put a system on a local 355 to see how it does on the V8's.
     
  20. ferraridriver

    ferraridriver F1 Rookie

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    #545 ferraridriver, Nov 1, 2012
    Pete, Yes, I have the COP system, I love it and don't have to worry about plug wires anymore. The plugs we're using should last the life of the car according to John, anyway a long time.

    So its no more ignition worries for me.

    I'll have to let John speak to the cost, this was his baby from the get go.
     
  21. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #546 moorfan, Nov 2, 2012
    John, PM me about the details of this ignition system...I can't remember whether we ever discussed it before but I'm curious as to cost. Might be something I want to try.

    Still can't get the upper ball joints out...they are a real *****....

    Regards,
    Pete
     
  22. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    #547 fatbillybob, Nov 2, 2012
    http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-front-end-service-tool-set-66686.html

    perfect for the occasional use. BJ's come our really easy with no force and no heat. Do not heat a-arms!
     
  23. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #548 moorfan, Nov 2, 2012
    Carl, you saved me buddy! This kit contained a puller that fit and popped the ball joints out...which appeared to be fretted in the seat quite avidly!
    Thanks!
    Pete
     
  24. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
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    #549 Cribbj, Nov 2, 2012
    Pete, just sent you a detailed email about the COP system.

    BTW, did you ever locate the source of your "thunking" or are you thinking you'll find it in the course of doing the bushings & ball joints?
     
  25. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

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    #550 moorfan, Nov 2, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Having now done both fronts and rears, I can say the rears are about half as much work. :)

    Step one: Jack up the rear end and remove both wheels.
    Step two: On either side, remove the plastic covers at the apices of the wheel wells. The passenger side cover conceals the fuel tank delivery piping, and the drivers side cover conceals the gear oil cooler. (Photo 1). On the drivers side there is an additional cover that needs to be unscrewed and slid up the length of the gear oil cooler lines (Photo 2). The goal of this is to expose the actuators on the top of the shock mounts so that they may be unclipped.

    Step three: Remove the actuator ring clips (they are the same as on the fronts but here the access is easy such that you can reach in by hand and remove them) (Photos 3 and 4).
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