1998 550 Maranello "sorting" thread--DIY

Sark- That is old information that has been updated in 575M and 612 manuals, the latter actually using the new Kevlar belts. That is the best information available. None of the pros on here would do the belts by feel, but now use a frequency tensiometer.

Using that old WSM procedure with its Steiger belt-depression tensiometer and retensioning is like the 308 guys hunting for the oil and lubricants recommended 40 years ago. We have learned a lot since then and better tools are available.

 

"....getting the correct belt tightness is well documented. I got to around 300 Hz (combined long and short branches) in less than 1/2 rev of the crank. (Although. I had to do a few more cranks to get to 300 after a full temp run…)

The Ferrari spec for a new belt is 335-360 Hz, but many say this is too high, too tight. The optimal Hz is a closely held secret. Unlike some others who won’t say, I’ll say I set mine at 300 Hz, after a heat cycle….. That felt about right to me, making me wonder how useful the tensioning measurement devises are…. if there is no consensus as to what the tension should be??? One thing I will say, measurement of only the long branch is useless. Spec is 126 Hz. Meaningless….. you can easily get 120 to 160 Hz depending on where you stop cranking or where the engine randomly stops.

I’d love further comment on what the Hz should be……"

Thought I'd add to the controversy.... Above is my post from last summer....

Regards.....Mark

 

I pretty much agree with all you have written. I have a hertzmeter and don't even use it. I'm still doing it all wrong by feel. So far 30 years no broken belts. My WAG is C# is a reasonable place to be.

 

FBB- Brian uses a frequency tensiometer and has his own settings for everything from the Boxers/308 GT4s to the 612s, although I believe he uses the 612 WSM settings for the V12s. That is what my techs use, since it is the only one done with the Kevlar belts. That short span is pretty stiff, so adds a lot to the combined span frequencies. The 575M WSM predates the Kevlar belts and was written in late 2001. There is a photo of the second 575M, 123764, in the WSM.

 

lol and +1.
Lets not be overly spastic about these things. A lot of tools have been introduced mostly to make things more measurable, and to control damage by (presumed) grease monkey errors.

"you installed my belt wrong, now it is broken and it is your fault" was more difficult to disprove when the procedure did not involve a special tool and specific value. There is a degree of variation in something like "tighten by hand as tight as it will go", or max 90 degree rotation possible". This got taken out in the complex of manufacturers, owners, lawyers and mechanics. But that does not mean the "old" method is a bad one. It just assumed a littlebit more of a brain and responsibility with the applicant than the new method, and MAYBE, just maybe, what it may do is prolong change intervals since a manufacturer is then more inclined to warrant longer intervals - because of the tighter variation in the installation process.

To me the yellow dust looks mostly like belt dust btw. But not worryingly much of it. They always shed a little of it. And because it is yellow on black, super-visible here.
Are you sure it is the cover that leaks? It looks like the oil from the seal spreads out a lot and I think that cover is simply the lowest point at that side. Oil leaks can be funny, I once had a car with such a leak where the pulley damper flung the oil droplets from the seal in such a way through the engine bay you could swear the battery located left of the engine was leaking oil.

 

Oh yes, definitely. I actually sat with the car on the lift and watched the hot running engine from underneath as drops appeared and fell from the individual seams on that lower timing cover. I know what you are saying about the crank seal and agree it looks that way, but there is much more dripping going on there

 

I completely agree with you. BTW I still set my ski bindings by hand and feel! I use the DIN spec for my weight and ability as just a starting point which I never exceed. In the old days I worked in a shop doing skiis. We set them all by feel until the lawyers made the manufacturers come up with the DIN settings.

 

Carl, you are such a maverick
So I have a question for you. Last time I had my injectors serviced I had Mr. Injector do it for $17 per injector.
What more does RC Engineering offer me, the street-only driver, for $24 an injector?

 

I'm ready to do this as well. Any cheaper for 24 injectors? I know Carl is a cheap bastard like me (us)... Let me know what you decide Pete...

 

RC was first on the scene back in the day in all the magazines. They got popular then snobby and too big for their britches = nasty to ralk to no customer service. Then many many new players entered the market driving price down and offering nice customer service like Mr. INJECTOR who did my FIs on my prior 550. I can only guess RC must have seen what was going on and lost market share. They have since returned to what made them successful and now I am very happy with them. Mr. INJ 5 years ago only cleaned sefviced balanced refreshed orings etc. RC can rebuild an injector or mix and match injectors to all output the same and supply new or refurb injectors as needed and build an injector for your specific race needs. For me they are in my town too and I do not have to ship.

If you look at the FNA price on a new injector you will want to insure yours plus shipping gets very close to RC who I just hand carry. So thats it. Both are very good. Either is fine.

 

Last couple of days I have been working on odds and ends; I will be replacing some fuel lines and for this I needed to drain the fuel tank.

Needless to say I wasn't enthusiastic about taking photos while I was draining fuel, so you will have to be happy with "after" shots.

The fuel tank can be drained from underneath the vehicle. To the left of the gearbox on the underside of the fuel tank slot there is a rubber grommet, and removing this grommet reveals the fuel tank drain which is a 8mm hex bolt (Photo 1)

Open the gas cap, raise the vehicle, and position funnel and collection buckets, as the fuel comes out very fast and in large amounts. Even though I was at about 1/3 of a tank, I drained almost 15 gallons.

Fuel filters changed (Photo 2)
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Next up was to remove the intake manifold. I have done this before a few times, but that didn't make it easier. When you remove the assorted wires and hoses, then you can carefully remove all 24 nuts that hold the manifold in place. Don't be stupid and miscount the nuts that you removed. Because if you leave one in place and then try to remove the manifold, it won't come off. Ask me how I know. Ah, dannazione!

When I reinstalled the manifold last time, I followed someone's advice that I should put sealant on the manifold gaskets to prevent leaks. Great idea, except this is how you have to work the damn thing off (Photo 1)

Once the manifold came off, I was able to examine the SRI Innovations fuel injector harness that I installed four years ago. Looks new. Good job Dave Helms! (Photo 2)

Manifold off, complete with new marring on my cam covers that I repainted last time. Looks like touchup will be occurring this time. (Photo 3)
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Now was a really fun discovery...my intakes were much cleaner than when I opened this car up for the last major (after I purchased it).

Intake valves to me look really good! There are a few that are somewhat coked up but overall very clean. I don't see any real reason to walnut blast the intakes in this case.
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Good mixture control makes the world go around.

 

FBB/Pete...question...What's the method for starting the nuts onto the threaded studs for the intake manifold? Dropping one of those under the intake could ruin your day...

 

glue a magnet into a 10mm 1/4" drive socket

use Swivel drive extension = easy peezy!
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THIS!

You don't even necessarily need the swivel drive extension, I use a long 1/4 inch drive extension with the special tip that allows the socket to "wobble" a little on the end (aptly called a Wobble extension).

And don't worry about dropping one of them down into the valley under the plenum. That is what a telescoping magnet is for!

Pete

 

This is what I use.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41OA2xPmvyL.jpg

 

I was away for a little bit and am now restarting work on my car. All parts are in hand, including the replacement tensioner bearings (Photo 1). Oh NO! The dreaded "no-name" bearing! I have thought about this a lot, and my experience with the original SKF bearings is well documented in this thread. How much worse can this one really be, especially if it is being sold through the factory supply chain? And how many ACTUAL bearing failures related to these bearings to we REALLY know about? I think I will use these on my car. 90% certain at this point

I disassembled my intake plenum fully to clean and inspect it and then to touch up the painted surface. Everything looks okay internally (Photo 2), with the usual plenum oil (Photo 3) This time I will be replacing the valves for the blowby system at the back of the plenum...I wonder if that will decrease the amount of oil that I see in there?
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Injectors removed and sent to RC Engineering. (Photo 1)

Plugs removed. This has always been something that I thought may give information on the health of the engine....how do the experts feel about that assertion?

All of my plugs look very good in my opinion; this is exactly how they came out of their cylinders (Photos 2 and 3)
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Pete, you just done your injectores 3 years ago.

 

Pete-I had excessive oil in my plenum covers as well. Your plugs look good from the beach...

 

Pete, the plugs look good, but if you can compare their insulator colors under a strong light and a magnifier, that's the best way to read them. Golden is supposed to be the ideal insulator color for a well running smogged engine. Any deposits up inside between the insulator and the plug body?

What valves do you have at the backs of your plenums? AFAIK, those are just barbed fittings back there?

I'm not thrilled with the 550's blowby system either. It's another area that Ferrari kept revising all the way through the 612, then the 599's is different from the rest, so they evidently still aren't happy with it.

 

I had those bearings installed couple years ago at the auto Gallery when they were still an authorized dealership....

We have checked them many times since then and they are fine.

Just thought I'd put your mind at ease.

cheers,

Bill

 

This is what the GTC cars use...
Ferrari 575 GTC GT1 Filters UFI for Competitions Carbon RH and LH Very RARE | eBay