1998 550 Maranello "sorting" thread--DIY | Page 30 | FerrariChat

1998 550 Maranello "sorting" thread--DIY

Discussion in '456/550/575' started by moorfan, Aug 15, 2011.

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  1. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
    Full Name:
    Pete
    Unfortunately, I discovered that after seating the seal with the seal tool, the shaft would NOT turn but with extreme effort, and it felt very rough and "grindy". I repressed it using the tool to make sure that I hadn't failed at pressing it all the way in. Still same result.

    I then used a socket to gently press the inner race of the seal a little further onto the shaft (about a half millimeter) and discovered that the shaft now turned smoothly as it should.

    Has anyone else had this issue with the tool?
     
  2. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
    Full Name:
    Pete
    #727 moorfan, Apr 9, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  3. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
    Full Name:
    Pete
    #728 moorfan, Apr 9, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    To remove the timing cover as a whole unit:
    First, remove the oil pump cover. Be prepared, it will dump some oil even if you have previously drained the sump (Photo 1)

    Once the cover is off, remove the hex bolt holding the oil pump chain sprocket. Then begin to slide the sprocket forward on the shaft, because it will need to come off with the chain in place as the cover slides forward. (Photo 2)

    Remove all bolts and nuts from the timing cover, and give it a good firm pull by holding the gilmer drive gear sprockets, and it should come off without too much work. You may have to jimmy the sprockets a little bit to de-mesh the timing gears from the crank gear. The cover, oil chain with sprocket, and oil chain crank sprocket should all slide off as one unit (Photo 3)
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  4. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,287
    socal
    Weird about wp. Problem is when people do not use a tool. The issue is the relative positions of the seal lip, inner ring thing of the seal, and the shaft. If that is not right you get leaking between tue ceramic discs or you get binding at the ceramic discs and it will not turn resistance free. So the tool gets the right pressure on the ceramic discs while seating the outter ring of seal to right depth. Knowing that the tools should bring seal home with zero thought while using some sockets will do the same thing but you have to set depths so the shaft spins free yet ceramics seal. I guess that was clear as mud.
     
  5. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
    Full Name:
    Pete
    #730 moorfan, Apr 9, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    As we all know, the timing gear bearing (170787) has been NLA for a while, and I have been praying that my bearings would be in good enough shape to not have to replace them.

    Once the timing cogs were removed, the bearings can be viewed (Photo 1)

    This is when I got the worst news...the bearings look fine overall, with minimal grease leakage, but if I grab the right gilmer drive gear shaft I can wiggle the inner race of the bearing almost a millimeter. These bearings are going to have to be replaced.

    So, it appears that my options are:
    1. Wait for Paul Hill's 170787 to become available.
    2. Try to find old SKF stock online (I'm leery being that this last set of SKF bearings lasted
    4000 miles)
    3. Investigate using whatever is in the factory supply chain as a replacement.

    I think that the first choice is probably the best.
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  6. gsjohnson

    gsjohnson Formula 3

    Feb 25, 2008
    2,291
    Woodland Hills, CA
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    GS Johnson
    Pete-Is that the reason you pulled the Timing Cover...to check the bearings?
     
  7. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,287
    socal
    Pete,

    Hill's bearing has been coming for over a year. It ain't coming any time soon as far as I can tell. I would just use the FNA replacement and just consider it on the to be replaced list for your next major. And Can't you feel a lot of that play by shaking the cogs even if the gilmer gear teeth are engaged with cover on car? My 2000 (65k miles now sold) and 2001 (22kmiles) 550's are still on the original bearings the motor came with. How come some of these cars seem to eat these bearings the first time? I get that the replacement bearing are junk.

    Also John has a non-OEM untested modification of the case and different bearing that will work if you want it correct now and can live with life outside the Ferrari parts chain. I trust John more than Ferrari.
     
  8. mcypert

    mcypert Formula Junior

    Jun 7, 2012
    369
    Houston, Texas
    Full Name:
    Mark Cypert
    Thought this is worth mentioning if you're referring to Pete's great tutorial, like I did, in fixing your V-12 ... it ain't always that easy... See post # 7 in:

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/456-550-575-sponsored-bradan/458864-456-front-cover-gasket-t-belt-replacement-cam-timing.html

    Regards......Mark
     
  9. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
    BANNED

    #734 Cribbj, Apr 10, 2015
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2015
    We haven't publicised this because it's not yet tested, but MSW worked with SKF in 2013 and 2014 to retro-engineer the outboard bearing system for these timing gears, since the original SKF bearings are NLA. (In fact, SKF advised us they'd reached EOL in 2010, and any bearings purchased after that were NOS, which explains why some have looked a bit rusty and have been known to throw grease.)

    We took a slightly different approach than Paul (Hill Engineering), to see what we'd have to modify on the Ferrari side in order to fit a different, but standard size bearing, and it was pretty simple, really. (AFAIK, Paul has taken the approach of trying to find a bearing manufacturer to reproduce the original SKF bearing, which is a far bigger challenge for the potential very low volume of bearings required.) By taking around a mm off the seating surface for the bearing on the cam gear shafts, then by using special, thinner snap rings, we were able to accomplish it, and SKF had a standard, very common bearing they recommended that we use for the application, which is in no danger of going EOL anytime soon. So, no case modifications, and only a slight mod to the cam gear shafts, and we now have a bearing that is about 2.3mm wider than the original and better able to handle the radial loads. But....as I mentioned above, it's also untested.
     
  10. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
    Full Name:
    Pete
    This timing cover was leaking oil past the gasket from the last major I did. That's why I pulled the cover again.

    Carl, everything felt very solid with the timing cover in place...no play in anything. It is only with the cover off and me deflecting the shaft of the gear that I can see the inner race of the bearing wiggling a little bit.
     
  11. DZ-96

    DZ-96 Formula 3
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    Mar 7, 2010
    1,926
    South Germany
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    Daniel


    Hi

    The position of the seal is very important.
    I remind, that the seal should sit equal with the passage, where the square starts.
    Pressing on the seal more than in this position causes a rough and strong run.

    Hope it helps.


    Daniel
     
  12. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
    Full Name:
    Pete
    Daniel, thank you for the input. The funny thing is that the post-press photo I showed of the seal was AFTER I had pushed it about a millimeter more onto the shaft. Prior to that, the inner race of the seal was just beyond flush with the base of the square; this is how the seal tool placed it on there. As far as I am aware, the seal tool is a "dumb" tool, in that it presses both races simultaneously. Therefore, if the outer race of the seal is totally seated in the pump housing (a point which is very easy to determine on the press) then the inner race will be positioned correctly. In my case, at this point the shaft wouldn't turn without grinding and severe effort. It was only after I pressed the only the inner race that extra millimeter did the shaft turn smoothly.
     
  13. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
    Full Name:
    Pete
    As I have pondered my bearing situation today, I have been increasingly frustrated by how I don't seem to have a good option for getting my car back on the road before summer.

    I decided to make a video of the play in my 170787 bearing. The play is really only when wiggled in one direction, however rotation of the gear doesn't seem to change this "top to bottom" wiggle. If I take and try to wiggle the shaft at 90 degrees off of the direction in the video, it doesn't move. This leads me to believe it is an issue in the outer race of the bearing. My instinct is that this is too much play to just reassemble the car for another 4-5 year major cycle. Experts, tell me what you think:

    http://youtu.be/aVIGZsWSqPI
     
  14. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,287
    socal
    That is extremely disappointing which means you have to take the cover with gilmer gears off to see if the bearing is toast because the gears hold everything well enough to fool you when all engaged.

    It is very possible that this gear death is much more common than we think. In my major just a few months old I just shook that timing cog real hard felt no play and called it good. That could be a big mistake. DANG!

    So add that cover pulling to every major now unless you have the JohnC conversion. That bearing in your video is toast and must be changed. If John has done the math on cutting the gear shaft down to make sure it is strong enough to go the distance without anything weird introduced like stress risers I think that is the way to go. Several Ferraris use that bearing yet there is no decent replacement and no replacement in site as far as I can tell.
     
  15. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
    BANNED

    Pete, it's apparent the bearing is in the process of failing due to the radial side loads, which is disappointing, considering you've only put 4000 miles on it. When we were working with SKF last year on this, and I explained the application to them, they allowed that this isn't the bearing they would have recommended for this application, but they were not involved in the early process of spec'ing it; only later when Ferrari told them what they wanted with the options for sealing, etc. Of course the design trail for this bearing is rather murky as it's 20 years old, and we only heard one side of it.

    As you may know this bearing has been used in this application for several generations of Ferrari models as far back as the 348, so perhaps they thought, "well it's worked OK in the V8's, so it should be good for these models." However, our engine family, the 456/550/575/612 were the first time this bearing was used in a V12 application, as all prior applications were on the V8's.

    Perhaps Brian could comment on whether our V12's run substantially higher belt tensions than the earlier V8's? Certainly the load on a pair of camshafts driving 24 valves, instead of 16 per bank is going to be greater - perhaps by 50%? Did Ferrari take this into account when they decided to reuse this same bearing?

    I think your only viable option at this point is to buy & install the no-name bearings from your friendly Ferrari dealer and monitor them closely.

    I'd love to be able to recommend our solution to you, but I can't & won't until it's tested. On paper, it's a better solution than the original Ferrari bearing because it addresses exactly the problem you're having.
     
  16. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,287
    socal
    Agreed but if my choice was to take a change on John's mod or the known failing bearings I would take my chances with John. So the bearing that came in the car from factory was better than the skf replacement? Or there are a bunch of failed bearings out there? Or only the replacements are bad? Or the bearing as speced is guaranteed failure?
     
  17. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 19, 2008
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    Clarksville, Tennessee
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    Terry H Phillips
    Has this been a problem? Have not read about any failures on the original bearings.
     
  18. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
    BANNED

    Carl, lots of questions there, and I think maybe there's a mixup in who provided what:

    The bearing that originally came in the car from the Ferrari factory is/was an SKF. SKF discontinued making this bearing in 2010. Any bearings that have been purchased since then have been NOS.

    Maybe not failed, but they're certainly not getting any healthier.

    Ferrari are now sourcing this bearing from an unknown vendor. There's speculation it's Chinese, and there's also speculation it's from a little bearing manufacturer in Italy that no one's ever heard of. Regardless, there's no identifying marks on the new bearing to show who made it or where it's from.

    All bearings will fail eventually. The more side load you put on them, the faster they'll fail. This bearing, as built, probably gave acceptable life for the V8 cars. Would I use the very same bearing for the V12's? Probably not, unless I ran the numbers and found that it was way overdesigned, or I could get more creative with the belt tensioning setup.
     
  19. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,287
    socal
    Who has SKF NOS bearings? I thought they were all gone and only the no namers were available.

    In Pete's case I thought he replaced with NOS SKF which have now failed?

    Also, there was some talk that the specs for belt tension are all wacky for the 550. It seems like pros have their own closely kept freq readings for this tension and there is variation there even if someone tells you the trick number how they get it and how they pluck the guitar string makes a difference. That is a lot of why I just don't bother and do it all wrong tensioning by hand and experience. If Pete has the NOS SKF bearing what roll does or did proper or improper belt tension play? Of course Pete I hold you in the highest regard and not implying anything wrong during installation but just as an important part of the discussion.
     
  20. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
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    #745 Cribbj, Apr 11, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Carl, I think the NOS SKF's are all gone now. Pretty sure the ones Pete put in his car last time were some of the last ones.

    Just FYI, here's a comparison of the specs for the bearing we're going to be testing (as recommended by SKF for this application) vs the original that SKF discontinued:

    As you can see, the new bearing is 19% wider than the old, which helps the side load capability tremendously, and it's a dual row angular contact type, instead of single row, deep groove, like the original design. There's no need to preload this type as there was with the old, and its radial load carrying capability is greatly increased, as is its axial. In fact, as you can see from the chart, the overall dynamic load capability is 48% higher than the old, and the static is 87% higher.

    Dave & I saw this situation developing back in early 2012 when people began having problems with the "no name" tensioner bearings (171057) that Ferrari started sourcing in lieu of the higher quality SKF (Note: Daniel @ Ricambi still sells only the higher quality SKF version of the 171057, however he sources them through Paul Hill, NOT Ferrari, which is one reason why his price on this bearing is probably double or triple what others charge, because they're sourcing the "no-name" bearings.)

    MSW began brainstorming how we could adapt the Ferrari timing system to use a more standard bearing, and improve the system while we were at it. After a lot of consulting with SKF and experimenting, we came up with this bearing, and the mod for the cam gears. What we/I didn't anticipate, was having to completely rebuild my engine, for what started out as a cam belt change, and that it would be down this long. Else this solution would have been tested, proven & available to the community long before now.
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  21. moorfan

    moorfan Formula Junior

    May 11, 2009
    809
    Central Virginia
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    Pete
    I would make the following points:

    -How many ACTUAL bearing failures do we know about with these new bearings? And we aren't talking about just spitting a little grease....every SKF bearing I have ever used in my car has done that prematurely. From what I understand a bearing that spits a little grease isn't necessarily a "failed" bearing.

    -My SKF bearing prematurely failed. And it is not because of an error in belt tension. I know that for certain.

    -I would love to use Paul Hill's replacement, but unless he can tell me one will be available in a short and definite amount of time I feel that it is just as risky to use an "at best" five year old SKF bearing (if I could even find a set) as it would be to use these new bearings.
     
  22. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Aug 10, 2002
    29,287
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    It really does not seem like many fail with the originally installed bearings as delivered. Either that is true or the entire fleet is running around on bad bearings and we just don't know it. No body pulls the timing cover to see. I would think that if the later we would see many more blow up motors.

    When you changed for 1st set of bearings how did you find that 1st problem and did that bearing with more time and miles wiggle as much as the 5 year old 4000mil failed bearing of today?
     
  23. dersark_painclinic

    dersark_painclinic Formula Junior

    Mar 8, 2005
    981
    Glendale, CA
    Full Name:
    Lazik Der Sarkissian
    By law the manufactures are obligated to make parts for 10 years for there cars, and our cars are past that legal limits. We may face more and more of similar issues from here on considering no after market parts avilable.
     
  24. 360modena2003

    360modena2003 Formula 3

    Jul 11, 2009
    2,460
    Not to worry, with ever improving CNC and 3D printing technology, aftermarket will grow once there is enough demand.

    I think it is the opposite, parts and solutions will get easier.

    It is definitively the case in the older Mercedes W113 (Pagoda) - I can get virtually any part, and they are getting very cheap as well.

    Same goes for the Ferrari 250 - many manufacturers are making parts.
     
  25. Cribbj

    Cribbj Formula 3
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    #750 Cribbj, Apr 12, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Pete you make some good points.

    The "reported" bearing failures to date (and from memory) have consisted of a couple of cases for both the tensioner and this outer cam gear bearing. But surely there have been some undocumented successes with them, too? Not everyone who changes these things necessarily posts about it on FChat.

    Remember that these same bearings are also used in the very same application for the 348's, the 355's, and the 360's, and even the Challenge versions of these cars, and we don't hear those guys squawking about them? (Or maybe they are - I don't visit the V8 section of the Forum?) So surely some other owners have been changing them and having success?

    So I agree with you on proceeding with a set of the no-name bearings; it's your only option at this point. Just keep an eye on them.

    Just as a point of interest, below is a partial cut & paste of the drawing SKF provided us of the "old" bearings they made for Ferrari for this application. The engineer I worked with commented on the unusual design in that the race was offset within the housing, and one side had a special high temperature garter seal, in lieu of their standard seal, and he opined that this was to help prevent oil contamination/dilution of the grease from the engine side. So, bottomline, this bearing didn't have a universal fitment, but should have been installed with this garter seal toward the engine.

    I wonder how many of us, including the pros, would have been aware of this? I've looked at these bearings in the past, and noticed they weren't symmetrical from front to back and wondered why, but didn't think to question anyone, and doubt anyone other than SKF would've known anyway.

    Pete, it would be interesting to know which way these bearings were put into your front cover, and when they come out, it would also be interesting to know how much grease is left in them if you wouldn't mind popping their seals?
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