2001-2002 Range Rover

Sis'-in-Law has a '09. She's a horrible driver, so, since I've experienced the thrill of abrupt starts and stops and turns and lane switches, I felt all the G forces except the one that flips you upside down.

Edmunds pricing 2001 Range Rover
http://www.edmunds.com/landrover/rangerover/2001/index.html

User reviews 2001 Range Rover
http://www.edmunds.com/landrover/rangerover/2001/consumerreview.html

 

Price sounds fair. It had the most comfortable seats I have ever had in a car, reminded me of a late model Rolls Spur.

There are three problem areas I know of:

The electronics suffer from Bi-Polar disorder. One day everything was working great, the next day either the check engine light is on, the windows will not go down, electronic odometer will not light up, the sun roof would not open, the rear brake lights will not go on, then drive the car 30 miles, turn it off, let it sit for five hours, start it up again and everything works.

The radiator has too small of an outlet that results in the engine overheating with the A/C on in hot weather. Land Rover improved this in '00 (I think) so you should be in the clear but you may want to flush the radiator before summer.

I never had any major problems here but you can easily drop $2K/yr on the air suspension. The hoses and seals will get worse with age and will require either pretty regular attention or you can do the conversion to a spring suspension. The conversion will bastardize it to some of the RR faithful but will keep your pocket from buying the car twice over a few years of driving it.

For $6,500, you are not getting into much trouble and you can unload it with ease when you get tired of it.

 

So, uh, whatcha decide?

 

As a previous owner of a 1990 Range Rover, I can agree with the person that said that the electronics suffer from bipolar disorder. My AC would work part of the time and another part of the time it would be thinking it was a heater. Further, I had problems with the Windshield Wipers. Sometimes they would work and other times it would give you the finger in the middle of a thunderstorm. Finally, I have had the electric seats stop working.

After all of that, I would gladly buy another for off-road purposes. It is one of the best 4x4s I have ever driven.

 

Also considering buying one for my sons first car, safe, cool, good winter car, slow, but the only thing holding me back is the reliability.

Steve

 

Any updates...? I love these cars...

I don't like the new ones as much as I like the P38 (1994-2002). Has all the coolness without the soccer mom/ drug dealer/ rapper image.

Would never get one as primary driver though, but an excellent second vehicle in the family and great for us who get lots of snow and enjoy the off road appeal of big vehicles.

 

I have a 1999 Calloway 4.6 as my daily beater with 173k miles. I changed out the air suspension for springs , replaced the a/c control unit, rest has been maintenance. I drive the car in Florida heat and keeps cool perfectly. I own a service shop so I have seen my share of nightmare Rovers, but they are ALWAYS the neglected ones.

 

+1 on the P38 being the best of the RR bunch. I've owned several, and work on even more at my shop (LR is one of our specialties). Things to watch for on any P38, 4.0 or 4.6:

-Head gaskets

-Climate control blend motors (notorious failure items and render the temp adjustment inop)

-EAS (air ride) valve block leaks (truck will constantly try to level itself when parked overnight)

-Slipped cylinder block liners (this is a biggie...and the fix is to R&R the engine and use "Top Hat" liners, which won't move)

-Electric tailgate release (usually the button is at fault but if/when it fails, there's no other way to open the tailgate without destroying the carpeted panel to trip the latch manually)

-Battery drain (most frequently the sensor for the remote key fobs will pick up stray signals and will "wake up" the BeCM (body control module) throughout the night and you'll be greeted with a dead battery in the morning....this is a frequent occurrence if the rig is left at an airport for days on end as well.

-Front end components suffer as a result of the weight of the vehicle. R&R'ing the ball joints et al, is a big job and is best done with LR special tools.

All these quirks aside, when they're dialed in, they're fantastic rigs. I dislike the '03 and up RRs (L322). The BMW V8 is a decent lump, but the VANOS system does give trouble on occasion. Not to mention, they just don't drive like RRs of old. Aside from that, the interior trimmings on them are ****e if you ask me...

If you need any more info, drop me a PM and I'll be glad to help.

Cheers,
Aaron

 

So... What is the best way to fix the air suspension issue(s)? Replace it with springs instead? Sorry if it's a dumb question, I can picture myself joining the club next winter season...

Sorry for the thread hijack.

 

No, you'd be drawn and quartered by the RR guys for 'castrating' a Rangie! The best thing is to learn the suspension system thoroughly and once you have an understanding of how it works, there isn't anything that should be too daunting. If that's not your cuppa, you can always hand your AMEX over to your local LR dealer and then bend over

Seriously though, the valve block is the biggest pain of all the components, and it can be overhauled DIY..

 

without a doubt! The truck sits and drives exactly the same as with the EAS, only always up and ready to go.

 

Noooo! If you ever wheel the thing, you'll be hung up quicker than you know. EAS all the way!