Hello, I recently purchased a 2002 360 (coupe) and it's started popping up with a P0492 CEL. I believe this is "Secondary Air injection System (bank 2). If I clear it after warmed up, it doesn't come back. But on cold starts it pops up again. The fact that I'm only getting P0492 and not P0491 as well, makes me believe its isolated to valve on the bank 2 side, and is not actually a problem the air injection pump or the solenoid. Is this a safe assumption? Anything else that I should be checking? Some questions 1) Is Bank 2 drivers side or passenger side? 2) Where exactly are the valves? Are they behind the black covers over the C pillars? 3) Is there a way to test the valve? Is it as simple as applying vacuum to where hose #19 / #30 in the diagram connects? And see if I can hear it opening and closing? 4) With no vacuum applied, should air still be able to flow into the exhaust 1 way? Or would it completely be sealed. 5) Looking at the diagram, there seems to be a solenoid valve (circled in blue, and #12 in the workshop manual diagrams) that supplies vacuum through a Tee (#31) fitting to both valves. If this valve was the issue, I should be getting P0492 and P0491 correct? 6) If I don't have gasket #21 on hand, can I undo the pipe connection (#25) and check the valve outlet? Is there anything I should worry about before disconnecting this? Any risk of damage to the fitting? Anything about torque values? The shop manual doesn't mention any. Image Unavailable, Please Login Workshop manual pictures Image Unavailable, Please Login No torque values for the union C Image Unavailable, Please Login --------------------- Image Unavailable, Please Login --------------------- Image Unavailable, Please Login
No answers? 1) Is Bank 2 drivers side or passenger side? Bank 1 is right side, bank 2 is left side 2) Where exactly are the valves? Are they behind the black covers over the C pillars? The valves are items 10, US version, they are located under the engine left and right panels. 3) Is there a way to test the valve? Is it as simple as applying vacuum to where hose #19 / #30 in the diagram connects? And see if I can hear it opening and closing? You can test the valve by applying vacuum and see if you can blow through the valves. 4) With no vacuum applied, should air still be able to flow into the exhaust 1 way? Or would it completely be sealed. No vacuum, no air. 5) Looking at the diagram, there seems to be a solenoid valve (circled in blue, and #12 in the workshop manual diagrams) that supplies vacuum through a Tee (#31) fitting to both valves. If this valve was the issue, I should be getting P0492 and P0491 correct? You may be having a Pending code for the other bank and not know it. 6) If I don't have gasket #21 on hand, can I undo the pipe connection (#25) and check the valve outlet? Is there anything I should worry about before disconnecting this? Any risk of damage to the fitting? Anything about torque values? The shop manual doesn't mention any. Re-use the gasket if needed.
Thank you very much. I'm going to try and find time this weekend or next weekend to break into it. I'll get some pictures of what I find.
Just to update anyone reading this, I found the source of the issue after going down a deep rabbit hole. Before removing the valves, I tested them on the car by applying vacuum with a hand pump. With a stethoscope on the valve, I could hear it actuate. I did this to both valves and confirmed they were mechanically OK. So then I started diving into the electrics to see if the air pump and solenoids were operating correctly. The relay for the air pump is behind the passenger seat, when I removed the cover I discovered the previous owner had installed a ScudIngSwiss F1 relay as well. The F1 relay had the monitoring box as well, and had a warning light. So I paused the work on the emissions system to figure out the F1 warning as higher priority. Talking to Stefan at ScudIngSwiss, the F1 warning was for Warning code 2: Pump forced shutdown after too long run cycle. This warning happens when the pump has been powered during more than 30 seconds". Also complicating things was that it seemed the relay was loose in the socket and losing power all the time. Despite these issues, the F1 system was operating totally fine. The pump would only run for a few seconds when entering the car, and the car would shift just fine while driving. I then realized that the F1 pump relay socket and emmisions air pump relay socket were right next to each other. My guess was the previous owner had installed the F1 relay in the wrong socket. When the F1 relay was in the wrong socket, it would still operate the emissions air pump correctly, but only when it didn't have a loose connection. Factory F1 pump relay on top (grey F1 socket) and the ScudingSwiss F1 relay on bottom (black air pump relay socket) Image Unavailable, Please Login With a TON of help from Qavion, and his wiring diagrams, I was able to confirm relays are in the wrong sockets. For the air pump relay socket (black socket), I'm looking for a red wire going in, and a red/black wire coming out. As well as a yellow/blue wire from the ECU Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login For the F1 relay socket (Grey socket) should have a grey wire going in, red and black wire coming out. Along with 2 black grounds and an orange wire. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login I now have a new air pump relay coming in from Ricambi, that will let me move the ScudIngSwiss relay to the F1 socket and correct all of this. Image Unavailable, Please Login
A great outcome. The relay swap is surprising. I’ve seen other cars with the pump relay on the bottom, but also the all grey relay socket being used for the air pump. Must have been Friday afternoon at the Ferrari wiring harness factory and on the Ferrari assembly line. The WSM shows the relay order from top to bottom to be Air Pump, Air Pump fuse, F1 pump )
