2004 360 F1 complete fluid change. | FerrariChat

2004 360 F1 complete fluid change.

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by Philminge, Mar 3, 2018.

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  1. Philminge

    Philminge Rookie

    Mar 2, 2018
    4
    Full Name:
    Philip Mingerulli
    Hey guys,

    I’m new to this forum so please try put up with my stupid questions.

    My Father in 2004 bought a brand new 360 Modena F1. This for him was huge and was his baby.Till this day he still owns the car and it is pretty clean I must say.

    From 2004 it is currently sitting on 9800kms.

    NOW - We constantly butt heads about the maintenance of these cars and how they should be driven.
    The car for the last 4 or 5 years has really just been sitting there. It might have done a few short drives but it’s safe to say its done no work.

    The old man doesn’t want to take it back to Ferrari as he has knows they never do what they say. (Engine strainer has NEVER been removed to be cleaned from new. Has been back to Ferrari for several services).

    I build and race my own cars and own a car hoist so I offered to do everything for him from start to finish so he could get it back on the road and know EVERYHTHING was done properly and as per the workshop manual.

    Plan was Engine oil and filter + strainer, Gearbox/diff oil +strainer clean, Coolant Flush, new plugs, Timing belts and bearings etc.

    I have completed the full timing belt replacement . (Bearings were still like new) all came up perfect.

    Engine oil is 100% fine and completed.

    Diff/trans I spend 2 weeks finding Shell Spirax S5 ATE 75w90 and finally ordered 20L from BLACKWOODS. It’s on its way.

    Today I decided to do the coolant flush. It had the Oem coolant in it. Never been replaced.

    Dropped it out from the front rads and only dumped maybe 9-11L. The OEM coolant was GLYCOSHELL and is no longer available. Zegame said they use Valvoline but also recommended penrites Ferrari approved RED mixture also.

    Because I’m going from blue to red I filled up approx 5L of Demin water and put some compressed air in the fill chamber. This water eventually started to come out. I then filled the system with 10L of new coolant. I ran the car with heater on full to operating temp. I then dumped this again completely. It was pure red and not discoloured in anyway.

    I cracked the bleed nipple and filled the system once again with new coolant. I locked off the bleed nipple and started the car. I ran it again to operating temp and let the fans come on and off 3 times. I shut the car off and cracked the nipple open . Air immediately came out. I started the car and ran it until no more air came out and there was a constant stream of coolant.

    Shut the car off, locked the nipped and ran the car once again. The heater was on full the entire time BUT I still cannot get any hot air out of the heater.

    I did the bleed another 3 times and held the revs up a little also. 2-3000rpm. Still not hot air.

    There must be an airlock somewhere and my next step is to take it for a drive.

    Has anyone had this issue??? Any advice would be appreciated.

    Other than this the car is absolutely immaculate. Just wondering if this bleeding procedure is this bad for everyone???

    Thanks in advance.

    Phil
     
  2. asphaltca

    asphaltca Karting

    Nov 3, 2014
    224
    Ontario Canada
    I have always had trouble wth mid engine cars. There have been times where I needed to raise the back of the car much higher then the front to remove the air from the system. I have recently been using the system you will see in the video and it has worked flawlessly on my 360. In fact after doing the timing belts I needed to remove a hose from the front of the engine to gain access and assembled everything afterwards but forgot to tighten the hose clamp. This device did not hold vacuum on the gauge and saved me from a catastrophe or at least a real mess.

     
  3. tazandjan

    tazandjan Three Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 19, 2008
    38,075
    Clarksville, Tennessee
    Full Name:
    Terry H Phillips
    There is an auxiliary electric pump that pushes water through the heater core. If that is inop, no flow and no warm air. Not sure just air in the system would make the heater completely inop.
     
  4. Philminge

    Philminge Rookie

    Mar 2, 2018
    4
    Full Name:
    Philip Mingerulli
    Asphaltca that’s probably the most ideal way to do it. No mess and looks like it can pull a good vacuum. Where did you purchase your kit??

    Also if you still have coolant in the system (cos you can never drain the lot) how does it go about still pulling a good vaccuum?

    Tazanjan, so there is a seperate pump that specifically forces water through the heater system?? I’ll try bleed it properly first and take the car for a drive to try force any further air out. If all this fails I may inspect this secondary pump.

    Do you know if you can switch on the pump with an external computer? A guy I know has a computer for Ferrari, Maserati etc and can turn on all pumps and auxiliary items etc with it externally. I just didn’t know there was another for the heater...

    Literally air is bone cold. Not even remotely warm.

    Appreciate your input guys as this is the first time ever touching a Ferrari so all I have is the workshop manual. And that has the most basic write up on how to bleed. Makes it sound so easy but straight away just by looking at the size of this cooling system I knew this was not going to be straight forward like my cars.
     
  5. Red 27

    Red 27 Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed

    Feb 2, 2008
    1,001
    San Diego, Ca
    Full Name:
    Dave
    #5 Red 27, Mar 3, 2018
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2018
  6. 24000rpm

    24000rpm F1 Rookie

    first thing first: the heater will not be on if the "stop" button is pushed in.

    2nd, if the above isn't an issue, speaking from experience, you can do the following , just a shot:

    1. fill up coolant to appropriate level, do not tighten the coolant reservoir cap(between airboxes), let it sit 24-48 hours.
    2. look again and see if coolant drops to a lower level , if so, top it up. ( it is a good thing if it drops),
    3. tighten the reservoir cap.
    4. drive and see if heater comes on
     
  7. Philminge

    Philminge Rookie

    Mar 2, 2018
    4
    Full Name:
    Philip Mingerulli
    Hey guys. Appreciate the responses. That’s sweet info. Will help me for sure.

    In terms of the stop button, I didn’t touch that. I just turned the heater to hi and the fan on.

    On any “normal” car regardless whether the AC is on or off the heater should still work. Works on my cars....

    All my other cars when the ac is on, the heater will work. That’s weird that it wouldn’t.
    Just switching on the air condenser will dry the air, wouldn’t it. Not stop the heating. Lol
    Anyway.

    I’ll check that stop button and start the car and try agin. If hot air comes out that would be mad.

    Also I’m going to buy a sydchrome vacuumed gauge and going to do the entire process again using the vacuume method.

    Bleeding the system with the valve on top of the thermostat makes an absolute mess.

    I will update this thread with the outcome tomorrow. Cheers everyone!!!

    If all fails will post up here.
     
    billy.gif likes this.
  8. up4speed

    up4speed F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Feb 16, 2012
    3,544
    Long Island, NY
    Full Name:
    Chris

    The stop button has to be in the "out" position for the heat to work!
    It's not a "normal car", it's a Ferrari, lol
     
    Samiare and billy.gif like this.
  9. billy.gif

    billy.gif Formula Junior

    Mar 9, 2017
    259
    Finland
    The said HVAC STOP button logic is one of the most peculiar things in these "modern classic" F-cars (360 & 430) :) I've owned mine a year now and I still have a note in the glove box in order to remind me which way is heater / AC ON - which is OFF.
     
  10. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
    Consultant

    Nov 29, 2001
    12,662
    San Carlos, CA
    Full Name:
    Mitchell Le
    I second the Airlift system. I only use it now. No bleeding ever.
     
  11. mello

    mello F1 Veteran
    Silver Subscribed

    Jul 12, 2013
    5,042
    CA Bay Area
    Full Name:
    Steve
    My old Volvo has the same peculiar AC/ON/OFF button. Must be a European thing.
     

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