2011 Cali instrument panel frozen

I would try a a hard reset (disconnecting the battery and then shorting the positive cable to ground while battery is disconnected). If that doesn't work you could have a shop use a Ferrari specific diagnostic tool try and communicate with the instrument cluster to see it communicating on CAN line with other ECU's.
The cluster may be defective, in which case you could see if Francorchamps of America (http://ferrarioc.com/?page_id=15) can repair it. If not you will have to buy a new cluster from Ferrari and have them program it with the information (milage, etc) that was on the original cluster.

 

Had something similar on my Cali.

Dropped by the dealer just before closing and they disconnected the battery then reconnected and brought the car back up.

All fine then.

Tech told me connecting the battery then leaving it for about 10m to go thru its initialization is most important. Also, roll windows down a bit before disconnecting to keep the glass from causing a problem if you try to close the doors!

SV

 

Hopefully a reset of the system will clear the problem.

Try to recall when you first noticed something was off and see if you can correlate with the timing of the event(s) with other events. For instance, if you just had service and if the software was updated. Sometimes new software is not correctly or fully loaded, resulting in corrupted code. If that's the case, the problem will come back and can only be resolved by reloading the software.

 

As 4th_gear has said, the software in the car may be corrupted. If resetting the system does not clear the issue, you could have a shop with a Ferrari specific diagnostic computer perform a "PROXI Alignment". This ensures that all of the nodes/ECU's on the CAN BUS have the same programming (PROXI file) and can communicate properly with one another.

 

A battery disconnect, called a "Hard reset" is the very first procedure that Ferrari recommends when there is an electrical issue. It will not cause any damage.
It will erase any fault codes that are stored in all of the ECU's. So it is recommended to download these fault codes before performing a hard reset.
Since you are just trying to get your cluster to come back to life, I would not worry about fault codes and just try the reset.

 

Not exactly. First disconnect the negative cable. Then take a jumper wire and connect the positive cable to ground, which is the chassis of the car, not the negative battery terminal. (the positive cable can still be connected to the battery). Just don't do it with the negative cable connected, or you will have a major short circuit and your jumper wire will glow red hot.
Connecting the positive cable to ground with the negative cable disconnected will drop the voltage in the positive side to zero, erasing the memories of all of the ECU's. You only need to jump it for about thirty seconds.
After reconnecting the negative cable, turn the key to the on position and leave it there for a minute, then start the car and don't touch the accelerator pedal for five minute so that the ECU's can learn the idle speed. You will then have to use the remote to arm and disarm the alarm system in order to reinitialize the system, otherwise the top, fuel door release will not work.
Hopefully the instrument cluster will come back to life and you will have to reset the date and time.

 

What model of battery tender do you have? The factory supplied unit for your car IS TRULY JUST A TENDER - it will not charge up a significantly discharged battery.

Ferrari and other car makers do not supply battery chargers with their cars.

 

I hope your new tender is at least capable of 3 Amps of (maximum) current draw and also has the program logic to recondition a badly discharged battery. The reconditioning process requires a temporary, carefully managed, heavy charge to de-sulphate the plates. Most tenders cannot do this.

Since you do not know how discharged your battery is, you need to consider how fast your new charger is and assume the worst in terms of how long it may take to sort out your battery, assume your battery is also not damaged beyond resuscitation. Depending on which new charger you have, it can sometimes take a couple of days to fully recondition and recharge your car battery.

Make sure the recharging is complete before you try using your car. IMO, not having the battery fully charged before using it is the source of most car battery problems. Think about this, that your dealer may have given you a car with a half-charged battery to begin with and the battery consequently never had a full charge. Unlike our smartphones, cars do not show the state of charge of its battery. It's a glaring omission.

 

Paul, you appear to be still using the tender that Ferrari supplied with your car. That unit likely won't be adequate to help you debug the problem you are having. You need one of the more sophisticated CTEK chargers which I believe you expect to receive soon. Those can recondition a sulphated battery.

A marginal battery may also provide adequate voltage and current (sometimes just briefly) for some car functions while fails others, especially the startup test(s). If the tests do not show "check OK" and we take that message seriously, it means the startup test(s) failed in some way. Like many devices, the current draw upon startup often approaches maximum, where a weak battery will show up.

I think we owners understandably double-guess car warnings and error messages because they are often spurious. However, sometimes they are not and sometimes, spurious nature of these warnings and messages actually point to other (real) problems.

Well, at least the car runs. Let's hope it's just the battery and not a failing electrical component(s). Please keep us abreast with your progress.

 

• After all of this you had a dead battery! Please put a new battery in the car before monkeying around with all of the electrical issues. Frozen instrument cluster displays are a typical symptom of low battery voltage. Unless you are sure that your battery is good, passes load test using a carbon pile tester, you are just wasting everyone's time.

 

The Cali uses a special battery charger connector designed for CTEK chargers so I have never seen a Sears Craftsman charger suitable for a modern Ferrari.

I hope your Craftsman charger is a modern smart charger and cannot overcharge a battery. All the old-style chargers will destroy a car battery if you let them. If you hook them up the wrong way, they will also damage the electronics in your car. Be very careful if you are hooking up a charger directly to the battery poles as the Cali has additional circuitry directly connected to the negative pole. Aside from supplying up to 12V of power, car batteries actually act as noise filters for a car's electronics so if you accidentally connect a charger directly to the car's electronics instead of just the battery, you can easily fry some of them and not know it. Never let a charger directly touch the electronics of your car.

These cars should also not be used with compromised equipment, especially in a manner that is different from the way the car is designed. That means staying with Ferrari or CTEK chargers that use the special charging connector.

I hope your Indy has Ferrari-training and actual dealer work experience with the car. Just having the tools is not the same as training and work experience.

 

Sorry if I missed this earlier in the thread, but how old is your battery? Our 2011 Cali was on the original battery and tender when we bought it 2.5 years ago. Had minor odd warnings pop up on the TFT. Albeit nothing as extreme as yours. Replaced battery with an AGM battery (our Cali has HELE) and got a new CTEK 7002 tender about 2 years ago. We use the tender religiously and, knock on wood, no issues since. Good luck with your Cali...T

 

Definitely. These cars have their quirks, and the owners on F-chat are a great resource...T

 

Paul, if your 2011 is still on its original battery then it's well past its normal lifespan.

Regular lead acid batteries are only supposed to reliably last 3-4 years (max). Many folks will religiously replace batteries at that point regardless, but sometimes batteries do last longer and the owner should be vigilant and replace them as soon as any electrical anomaly emerges. If your battery is original, start by replacing it with a fully-charged correct replacement and see if that fixes your problems. Interstate supplies the excellent replacements we use up here in Ontario.

Hopefully, that's the source of your issues.