Buy

2022 Major and Annual Summarized

Discussion in '612/599' started by JM280z, Apr 11, 2022.

  1. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    I wanted to condense year 2022 products, prices, and stores. Also some tips. I only see years old threads with hard to find products so this is what I bought and where, plus I didn’t see a summarized posting.

    Other options below.

    13L Engine oil:
    Shell Helix Ultra Racing 10w-60
    Quality Bearings Online - $303 shipped
    -maybe not the best since it’s racing oil with limited/no detergents but if I change in 2 years and <3000 miles I assume it’s fine.

    5L Gearbox and Differential:
    Motul 300 75w90
    Amazon - $96 shipped

    1L F1 Gearbox:
    LiquiMoly TopTec 1200
    Amazon - $23

    2L Brake Fluid:
    Motul 660
    Amazon - $63

    20L Coolant:
    TBD, easy to find G48

    1L Hydraulic Power Steering:
    Motul Dexron III
    Amazon - $20

    Other Fluid options:
    Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 10w60 engine oil (but with “599 additive”), ATE 200 brake fluid, and 75w90 Shell for gearbox and diff.

    Parts:
    Ricambi, they’re awesome! 10% FChat discount too. $870 for:
    Spark plugs x12 (192637)
    Air filter x2 (223039)
    Cabin Filter (66855200)
    Oil filter (218429)
    Crush washer x5 (10261860)
    Crush washer x10 (10257060)
    Oil plug (10300771)
    Compressor belt (195992)
    Alternator belt (244469)
    -I’m not doing head gasket due to no leaks. Got extra washers due to having other Ferraris.

    Assembly number is needed per the attached fluid spec sheet and that’s found behind and lower right of the plastic cover. Don’t confuse assembly number plate with the one underneath your intake manifold, assembly one is forward, right, and lower than than engine placard.

    I should be <$1,500 into it. Quite a savings over the quoted $5,000 from a dealer. Plus beers and time with friends.

    I’ll post pics and things I learn while doing it too. Maybe on this thread. We need more DIY 599 stuff, but I hope I don’t lead this initiative since it’s my first time!!



    Image Unavailable, Please Login

    Image Unavailable, Please Login


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
    dmcgill, ducatiguy, Jaguar36 and 6 others like this.
  2. To remove this ad click here.

  3. flash32

    flash32 F1 Rookie

    Aug 22, 2008
    3,643
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    #2 flash32, Apr 11, 2022
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2022
    What about the quart of the additive .. tutela ?


    Copies from another thread from WSM

    Fully tighten the oil filler cap on the tank. Start the engine and leave running at idle speed to reach a temperature of 95°C (approx. 10 minutes after starting). PAO additive must be added to the lubrication circuit at each engine oil change. Unscrew the oil tank cap and add, pouring slowly and in small quantities at a time, 800 g of PAO code No. 232571 additive to the tank (filling process should take about 10 minutes to complete)
    Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
     
    JM280z and ottocars like this.
  4. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    I didn’t think the additive was necessary because I got the specified shell helix oil.


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
  5. flash32

    flash32 F1 Rookie

    Aug 22, 2008
    3,643
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    I don't believe that is true ..but haven't done much research into that oil ..but the bulletin was issued when shell oil was used

    Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
     
  6. flash32

    flash32 F1 Rookie

    Aug 22, 2008
    3,643
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    JM280z likes this.
  7. To remove this ad click here.

  8. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    Cool. I just bought the second link. $61 shipped. I see 800g of additive to be used, which is approx. 1L of oil.


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
    flash32 likes this.
  9. MrF355

    MrF355 Formula Junior

    Mar 4, 2008
    462
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    Kimi
    The tuela oil additive is a factory recommendation for all oil changes. It is to quieten the tappet noise.
     
    JM280z and George Vosburgh like this.
  10. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    Halfway through. So far, super simple.

    I got delayed cleaning the throttle bodies and MAF’s due to oil in them due to being overfilled at some point. I’m going to borescope the intake manifold to check for any pooling in there.

    Some things that may help other people:

    When removing the undertray, there are 3 hidden screws behind the grill mesh into the radiator. They’re torx versus the normal 10mm that holds the undertray on.

    When draining the oil from a lift, I had to make a contraption with a cut bottle to funnel the oil into my drain pale since the lift rail blocked it.
    To remove the oil filter, remove the 12mm bolt / ground wire. I drained engine oil from x2 points, as pictured.

    When draining the gearbox oil, loosen the 22mm hex fill plug (pax side of gearbox) before removing drain plug. Then when filling, it’s 4.7 L and fill until fluid drains out the fill plug. I drained gearbox oil from x1 drain plug.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login




    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     

    Attached Files:

  11. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    I forgot to add, clean the small filter that’s held on by two ting bolts, aft driver side of gearbox. Has small diamond shaped plastic cap.


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
  12. To remove this ad click here.

  13. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    Changing F1 fluid:
    This is really easy, but you need the Launch X431 software to manage (pressurize it and actuate between 1st and neutral) the system.

    Removing f1 reservoir cap:
    I took off the cross bar between exhaust pipes and could get my hand up there from the aft side of gearbox. Then other hand from driver side of gearbox by the half-shaft. With both hands I could loosen and tighten cap.

    Filling and flushing:
    I pumped fluid out of reservoir, then added fresh. I only used the bleed nipple from front of torque tube/by the flywheel and clutch. I went through my full liter bottle draining and adding. Drain 1/5 of a liter at a time into a clear bottle using a clear hose (to see when fresh/old fluid is transferred), then add by pumping into respective. I had to use the X431 software to engage and disengage gears and pressurize the system, and depressurize it. When Pressurized the reservoir fills, then after it sits a bit/depressurizes then the reservoir lowers. Depressurized, I wanted the fluid about 5mm from the screen in the reservoir. I used a borescope camera to look. When filling, I stuck my finger in the reservoir while my friend pumped to determine when about .5” from the top.

    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login




    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
  14. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    To remove the gearbox filter, I had to loosen the 4 hex head screws through the cross member. Then I used a 4x4 and jack to lift the gearbox enough to remove the filter, approx 2”. Then I ordered a new filter o-ring (Ricambi: 182119). I torqued the 4 screws to 50nm with some blue loctite.

    I used an air compressor to clean the filter.

    On my f430, I cracked the gearbox filter as it’s plastic and brittle. Be careful removing it…. Pry slowly from both corners.

    View attachment 3321432 View attachment 3321431
     
  15. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login



    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
  16. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    Spark plugs:

    Pretty easy, but you may want to disassemble some of the hoses. If you do, the proper clamps are Ricambi 190151. Get extra because I messed a few up when pinching/clamping them.

    I used a small amount of anti seize on the threads and dielectric grease on only the ceramic part of the plugs. I gapped them to .027”. Range is .023”-.028”. I did wider side due to less projected wear since they’re iridium.

    Before pulling the plugs, clean the aluminums since some corrosion probably formed. Then blow debris out before removing plugs.

    I torqued plugs to 11 ft/lbs / 130 in/lbs. I read 10-15ft/lbs so did lower end since I had never seize on the threads.

    I recommend taking off the MAF housing to clean it, and take out the MAF sensor to clean it, then the u-rubber tube between MAF housing and throttle body to also clean it. My car was overfilled at some point so oil was in there. I also cleaned the throttle body. Use proper throttle body cleaner and MAF sensor cleaner.

    I borescope the intake manifold to confirm no oil pooling in there. There was a light coat but that’s OK and I cleaned it through the throttle body.


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
  17. flash32

    flash32 F1 Rookie

    Aug 22, 2008
    3,643
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    I think you got this backwards ... Pressurized the reservoir fills, then after it sits a bit/depressurizes then the reservoir lowers. Depressurized, I wanted the fluid about 5mm from the screen in the reservoir.

    When pressurized the level is the lowest

    Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
     
    JM280z likes this.
  18. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    Correction: to clean the inside of intake manifold, I removed the whole throttle body. This is also needed to access one of the spark plugs/remove that ignition coil (#4 aft).

    Also, I needed: 14461180 oring / gasket that goes between airbox and MAF housing. They’re backordered so if one is doing this process themselves, order just incase since they’re cheap.

    Also, some undertray caps and the same rubber stop for the front lid: 1407987


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
  19. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    Hey All, I put in 10L oil and 1L additive. Car calls for 12.5 total. Still reading 1/4” above “max” (after 10 min idle, 4500rpm 1 min, 90-120 sec wait, check level) and kicking oil into MAF housing, but hasn’t hit filter yet. I’m going to pump some oil from the reservoir. Seems we need to be adding 2.5L less than what it calls for!


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
  20. Skidkid

    Skidkid F1 Veteran
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Aug 25, 2005
    7,324
    Campbell, CA
    Full Name:
    John Zornes
    That is to be expected. You can't get 100% of the oil out of the system so it always takes less than the total capacity. And good on you for following the proper check method. It is very important. If you do it like a 360 (warm and at idle but no RPM cycle) you will be about 1 qt overfilled.
     
  21. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    I removed 1L. So at this point, I put only 9L of oil in and 1L additive = 2.5L less than capacity. Still reads 2/3 of max to min line. I’m thinking of leaving it there unless others think I should be on the lower 3rd.


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
    Skidkid likes this.
  22. flash32

    flash32 F1 Rookie

    Aug 22, 2008
    3,643
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    A little lower is always better than higher

    Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
     
  23. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    Ok, thanks. I’ll pump .5L out. Meaning, I will have put in 3L below capacity. Wow!


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
  24. flash32

    flash32 F1 Rookie

    Aug 22, 2008
    3,643
    Central NJ
    Full Name:
    Dominick
    Try to keep half way and measure in a week or so after driving a little

    Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
     
    JM280z and Skidkid like this.
  25. Skidkid

    Skidkid F1 Veteran
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Aug 25, 2005
    7,324
    Campbell, CA
    Full Name:
    John Zornes
    As the voice of experience: if you run it overfilled smoke will billow out the exhaust if you drive it hard, not on startup or very easy driving. Your intake will be a mess. You MAFs will be toast shortly thereafter too. So much fun. Glad you caught it right away.
     
  26. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake
    Power steering fluid change: I used a hand pump to pump out of reservoir. Then I added some, turned the wheel to the full deflection 10 times, then pumped it all out again. I did this about 6 times. Don’t let it get below the filter screen/suck air in. I’m going to do this again in a month.

    Brakes: I started on the rear right, then rear left, then front right, then front left (start furthest from master/reservoir). Inner bleed nipple first, then outer. The further it is from the reservoir/master, spend more time bleeding it. Add fluid throughout the process to not let reservoir intake air. I had a friend pump the pedal, the old school way! I went through 2.5 bottles of Motul 660 doing this. Then afterwards I sprayed down the calipers with water to remove the water soluble brake fluid that eats paint. I also cleaned the calipers from the corrosive brake dust.
    -I also removed the calipers to remove the rotors to clean the hub. The two bolts that hold the calipers on are 58 ft/lbs which seems high so I did 55 ft/lbs. There are two more bolts through the rotor that hold it on; one is a regular bolt and one is a guide bolt. I used a dry silicone lube around the hub to prevent corrosion, after cleaning well. I measured the pads for consistent wear. I could have weighed the rotors but they look fine. I used guide pins (in place of the lug bolts) to ensure I don’t hit the carbon ceramic brakes during wheel removal/installation.

    Radiator fluid: front undertray must be removed so do this when you do the other fluids! It’s the two big hoses on the front right with screw clamps, in front of pax seat, back right of engine block, viewed from underneath. They’re by the 2” hose that feeds into the vent of the undertray. Do one at a time. Have a big bin to catch the fluid. If you can squirt pressurized air into the fill cap, sealing all around it, then you can get much more volume out.

    Wheel torque is about 76 ft/lbs. I cleaned the threads well too.


    Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
     
  27. Skidkid

    Skidkid F1 Veteran
    Rossa Subscribed Owner

    Aug 25, 2005
    7,324
    Campbell, CA
    Full Name:
    John Zornes
    I believe the power steering is self bleeding so it isn't too big of an issue if it gets below the filter screen.
     
    JM280z likes this.
  28. JM280z

    JM280z Formula Junior

    Aug 22, 2020
    319
    Full Name:
    Jake

Share This Page